Sea Ray 1977 200SR

[badcrank 77]

I just purchased this Sea Ray 1977 200SR my first Inboard with a 235 ford OMC. Found there is no owners manual available. If anybody knows where I can procure one please let me know. Since Sea Ray web site only goes back to 1989. Several questions: 1. The large white air ducts coming from the blower fan, and side ports on the hull, what is there purpose in the engine bay. 2. How does that stern drive engage when when you advance the gas throttle. And how does one change out the oil on the engine.
Advanced thank you,
Jon

 

[racerone]

Sounds like it is an electric shift OMC.-----Do a complete evaluation on this boat / engine / drive BEFORE spending any hard earned coins on it !!

 

[Scott Danforth]

The bilge venting is so you do not blow up

Owners manuals did not exist back then

You use an oil extractor pump and remove the oil from the dipstick

Find your motor and drive service manuals here: https://outboardbooks.com/

 

[badcrank 77]

Thank you for all that super info. Yes I made have made a mistake on this purchase. But I am into it now. I am a fair mechanic, and electronic tech 30 years worth. So I have a shot at this. One last question is there a wiring schematic anywhere to be had for the boat.

Thank you all

 

[Scott Danforth]

One last question is there a wiring schematic anywhere to be had for the boat.

Engine and engine related gauge wiring schematic will be in the factory manual.

regarding the boat itself, most likely never existed. most are generic.

the wiring color codes are now an ABYC standard derived from the SAE standard. back in 1977, the wiring was up to the hull builder.

 

[badcrank 77]

Oh boy, well Hopefully I can figure it out for someone had been in there and done a bunch of DIY wiring.

 

[racerone]

Not uncommon to find wiring like a bowl of spaghetti on older boats.

 

[kenny nunez]

The shift wires at the transom are green for go and blue for back up. The connections are covered with rubber tubes . With the ignition on and the shift in forward or reverse the propeller shoiuld lock in one way and fell springy the other way, this tells that the shift switch is working.
There are 2 electro magnets in the lower gearcase which pull a spring over a drum to engage forward or reverse.
Does the power tilt work?

 

[badcrank 77]

Thank you for this great info. I am going to test the power tilt today. At this point I have restored all of the cosmetics i.e. wood trim, carpet, etc. I'm starting on the wiring, and being a electronic tech and former electrician, this should be not a big issue for me to make sure all the wiring is going to the right things. I also am starting on the motor. Which brings up a question. This is a 235 ford small block OMC mod# 990240G everything look fairly clean on it. and I will rebuild the Holly carb on it. But what I have found is the exhaust manifolds have long cracks in the outer casting. Is this common? or did someone not winterize the motor properly. I removed the oil out of the pan, and there was no signs of water, so I am going to assume that the block is not cracked. Would I be safe to just weld these cracks on the manifolds?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Those are thermal-declination phase-shift material breaches....

AKA freeze damaged.

Manifolds are junk

May want to pressure test the motor, before going any further with it. Don't assume it survived. Freeze cracks on Ford's usually leak when motor is warm, however fail a pressure test

 

[racerone]

See post #2 on this.

 

[badcrank 77]

Thank you again for this info. I'm stuck with this project now. Will do the pressure test on the motor. Will also try the tilt motor. was working on all the electrical yesterday. Ya I know about post #2 but it is to late now, I had starts in my eyes, and did not check everything thoroughly before purchase. But I have to put that behind me, for to keep thinking about it will eat me alive. So the manifolds are junk? And to weld the outer cracks would be a waist of time?

 

[Scott Danforth]

So the manifolds are junk? And to weld the outer cracks would be a waist of time?

They are also cracked on the inside. You can not repair freeze-busted cast iron

 

[badcrank 77]

Ok, does anyone make an aftermarket manifold for the 235 (351) small block ford marine engine? The tilt motor doesn't work, so I will be taking that off today and repair it. But the relays were good.

 

[southkogs]

Part of what's behind racerone's post #2 is that the electric shift stringers were obsolete in 1990s. You're into an antique. Personally, I've owned the electric shift, and I actually like it (there are some advantages). But they were done by 1978 and within another decade OMC was gone. (EDIT: <= now that I re-read, OMC lasted a little longer than that.)

Some parts are still available for the drives. But others - and I suspect the manifolds are included - are no longer available (I did a quick search). You will have to find a donor, used parts or an alternative.

Gut check on this: once it's rebuilt and working right - the electric shift has some nice features to it. BUT, it will always want as much attention in the garage as it does on the water. They're just kinda' finicky, and parts are getting harder to get hold of.

Even a little worse: You can't re-power this boat to a more modern Mercruiser or Volvo drive without a complete transom rebuild. The Stringer drives were installed differently and make a much larger hole in the transom than the other drives do.

 

[Lou C]

Try looking on Barr Marines website to see if they make a version of that manifold. If you REALLY love that boat and want to keep it fix what’s needed to get it going but if it’s a constant headache think about doing a transom rebuild and swap in a modern (Mercruiser) drivetrain. Big job but then you have a boat anyone can get parts for & repair. Looks like you have a nice shop to do it in!

 

[Scott Danforth]

sterndrive.info specializes in the 78-84 drives and has manifolds. not sure what can cross-reference to the older electric shift.

However they carry GLM, which has become affectionately known as "goood Luck Marine"

there are some barr knock-offs on the market as well. https://www.google.com/search?q=omc+log-style+exhaust+manifolds+5.8+liter

 

[kenny nunez]

Sierra Marine has replacement manifold parts. While your original manifolds are rear riser style the center riser replacement type will require a 90* elbow to connect to the exhaust “Y” pipe. Look at the sides of the block at the core plugs, sometimes they will come out in a freeze without block damage.
If the tilt motor or trim motor does not operate and the solenoids are good then the brushes are stuck in their holders. They are easy to free up and if the armatures are pitted then they can be turned down on a lathe.

 

[badcrank 77]

Thank you all for this very great and valuable info. Here is where I am at. I rebuilt the tilt motor and it works perfectly. I have a new starter on the engine, and the engine turns over without any problem. (spark plugs removed) Done this to test cylinder compression 130 on all cylinders (port side) 80 to 120 on the (starboard side) pulled the rocker covers (port side) all clean. Starboard side) UGH! all the push rods rusty, water laying in the valley. Done a pressure test on the water jacket, small block crack down by front of the engine by the pan and timing gear block cover. (it's a 351 Winsor ford) with Holly carb. Someone never winterized the engine properly. So I will be pulling the engine and see if it is salvageable. I can do a stitch repair on the cracked block. put will have to find out where the crack is that was letting water in to the rocker arm assembly. My Son is a master welder, will possibly have him braze the manifolds. with the hopes that the cracks are just external only. I found a site (T.C. electronic / marine) that has all the parts to rebuild that stern drive (stringer) at This point I know it needs a new water pump impeller. I do have the OMC (selock) original (classroom) manual the shows the complete rebuilding of that drive. The Sea Ray saga continues. Again thank you all for the great response and valuable info. I'm going to win this one.

 

[badcrank 77]

One other thing, one of the freeze plugs were a rubber expanding one, and one on the (starboard side) had a small hole in it (rusted through) If I pull the engine I will install all new freeze plugs.