Sea Ray 1977 200SR

[southkogs]

You may want to do a couple of checks on the Stringer drive: 1) pull the upper gear case and see if it turns free. You should be able to turn it by hand (or maybe using a hand tool), but it should move relatively easy. Then you may want 2) test the lower to see if it shifts into gear.

If either of those two things aren't happening properly, it's a gear box rebuild. Kenny, Scott or Lou know more about that than I do. If you're confident rebuilding transmissions, you may be all set. I was less than worthy

 

[kenny nunez]

There may be an internal crack on the starboard side of the block below the intake manifold. Most times the head does not.
I recently purchased a 94 F 150 with a cracked 302. I located a rebuildable 351 for $300.00 and rebuilt it. In my 30 plus years as a stern drive shop I never reused manifolds when replacing cracked engines. I am sure your son can weld up the outside of the manifolds but if there is an internal crack his time will be wasted.
The best way to repair a visible cracked block is with a lace or cold weld. There used to be a local shop that specialized in cracked diesel engine heads and blocks. Hopefully there may be a shop in your area that provides that service.
I am 100% sure you will find water in the upper gear and the tilt clutch housings. The main culprit will be the seal surface of the ball gear. Try to get a genuine OMC service manual for the drive.
I just sent you a private message with my phone number.

 

[badcrank 77]

Pulling the engine on Monday. Removed the stern drive, and there was a little water in the oil both upper & lower cases, but mostly very old oil. Which for it's age and harden seals, I would assume this is common place. Everything i.e. shaft's, gears, bearing etc turn freely,

 

[badcrank 77]

On the ball shaft from the engine, when removed it had only good looking oil in it. On the tilt clutch housing , yes it had both water and oil in it. I drained it all, super cleaned it, made and water proof gasket for it, and put a light coat of red high temp silicon gasket maker on both sides and refiled with 30 w motor oil. Installed new tilt motor I refurbished, and everything worked super. Yes I have studied up on the Stitch -n- loc and looks like the way to do things, and also possibly using loctight metal weld epoxy. Will know more when I get into the internals of the motor. Not going to spend any money yet on the stern drive parts until I know the 351W (235)hp can be brought back to working condition. This is a big project, I am a fair mechanic, and my Son is a master mechanic, so I am in fairly good shape there.
Thanks again to all, you people are just super, and I so appreciate the input, for this is my first, go around with a I/O boat (and will be my last adventure) with bringing a vintage boat back to life. But will be great if everything turns out without investing a fortune