bob johnson
Rear Admiral
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2009
- Messages
- 4,306
so I have a Lowe 2070. It has a composite core for rigidity in the transom assy. I say assy, because there is a layer of .100 thick aluminum welded to the boat to form the outer layer of the transom assy. then the core is placed in and on the inside is a layer of .070" thick aluminum that has a 1.5" 90 degree lip bent into the bottom to support the composite core. The inside piece is riveted to the flange on each gunwale...maybe 6 rivets...basically to just hold it in place... then after the core is inserted.. there are three transom supports that are welded to the floor that rise up and are bolted through all to squeeze the transom assy. Plus later on the outboard mounting bolts also squeeze everything tight together.
I had some flotation pods welded to the outer skin of the transom. these add buoyancy and lift the stern....so the boat can run shallower! the welding did impart some warpage in that outer skin. I was running a Johnson 2 stroke 115. this set up was on the boat for 7 years now. I am going to go with a 150 hp outboard now, because I found a good deal and the 115 threw a rod. I have cut the flotation pods off the back of the transom, and am straightening that sheet..i have removed the core, and the inner sheet. My plan is to beef up the transom with through all rigidity. I had planned to tack a sheet of 1/4" 5052 to the outer skin. and also tack a sheet of the same to the inner skin( modifying the transom brackets to accommodate ).
But I did notice around all the hole in the transom skins, a little corrosion...not much....especially for the constant saltwater use and the years. so I know letting water get trapped up against the aluminum sheet...is bad.
so my question is how do I attach the 1/4' sheets so I don't get a corrosion maker... all the rest of my transom skins were clean and smooth!!
I was going to just tack maybe 6 places all around the outside and then through bolts with 12 , 1/2-13 SS bolts. do I need to COMPLETELY coat the inside with a glue, to prevent water intrusion?? or will painting them with a certain paint prior to mounting work? I say 12 bolts because I will put the pods back on, but they will have a flange on their sides that will allow me to BOLT them to the transom. I want to do this so the pods are not PULLING on the outer skin( and 1.4" sheet)...the through bolts will let the strength get transferred into the inner 1/4" sheet AND the factory transom braces!!!
when I took my pods off, one was 1" lower than the other, because it pulled on the outer skin of the transom... and in that area, there were no through bolts...
here is a side shot of the transom skins..the outer is still attached, the inner is off to the left a little and the core is out of the photo!!
bob
I had some flotation pods welded to the outer skin of the transom. these add buoyancy and lift the stern....so the boat can run shallower! the welding did impart some warpage in that outer skin. I was running a Johnson 2 stroke 115. this set up was on the boat for 7 years now. I am going to go with a 150 hp outboard now, because I found a good deal and the 115 threw a rod. I have cut the flotation pods off the back of the transom, and am straightening that sheet..i have removed the core, and the inner sheet. My plan is to beef up the transom with through all rigidity. I had planned to tack a sheet of 1/4" 5052 to the outer skin. and also tack a sheet of the same to the inner skin( modifying the transom brackets to accommodate ).
But I did notice around all the hole in the transom skins, a little corrosion...not much....especially for the constant saltwater use and the years. so I know letting water get trapped up against the aluminum sheet...is bad.
so my question is how do I attach the 1/4' sheets so I don't get a corrosion maker... all the rest of my transom skins were clean and smooth!!
I was going to just tack maybe 6 places all around the outside and then through bolts with 12 , 1/2-13 SS bolts. do I need to COMPLETELY coat the inside with a glue, to prevent water intrusion?? or will painting them with a certain paint prior to mounting work? I say 12 bolts because I will put the pods back on, but they will have a flange on their sides that will allow me to BOLT them to the transom. I want to do this so the pods are not PULLING on the outer skin( and 1.4" sheet)...the through bolts will let the strength get transferred into the inner 1/4" sheet AND the factory transom braces!!!
when I took my pods off, one was 1" lower than the other, because it pulled on the outer skin of the transom... and in that area, there were no through bolts...
here is a side shot of the transom skins..the outer is still attached, the inner is off to the left a little and the core is out of the photo!!
bob
