Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

[recess]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Like all the others on this post, I too have been wrestling with rusted bolts etc. I am working on a Cox super Loader single axle and derusting parts and replacing bolts. Any parts I take off, after blasting the rust off in my cabinet, I dip them in "Phospho", or may also be called "Ospho", which is a phosphoric acid treatment that converts rust and bare metal to phosphorus oxide instead of iron oxide (rust). It's available at just about any paint store or marine supply store worth a hoot. This stuff acts like a primer to seal the metal before painting or treating. Let it sit overnite, rinse off the residue, then paint or treat. Here in Va. Beach, we are lucky enough to have a great trailer supply and repair store. You name it, they got it. I asked about galvanized bolts and was told that they don't supply them anymore. Possibly the EPA regs on disposing of heavy metal based material, but they do recommend using a metal protector like what was suggested in the above posts. It leaves a waxy amber colored coating that seals the treads and metal. I have gone through 4 cans so far and spray it on the threads and bolts, and any other part that will be immersed in salt water. Looks to be pretty cheap preventative maintenance.

 

[Peter J Fraser]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

I use a CRC product called 'Soft Seal'.<br />Packed in an aerosol can or bulk its similar to the rust inhibitors that many body shops use to rust proof autos.<br /><br />It is a waxy deposit when cured and is waterproof.<br />It is excellent for applying to fittings that you need to preserve the threads of in order to make removal easier at a later date.<br /><br />Also useful for preserving engine parts for storage and later use. Spray on or dip application.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Mr. T - You can remove the races quite easily with a long punch. With the tire on the ground put the punch through the hole for the axle and hit the back side of the race (remove the grease seal of course - it is not reusable so get it out however). Move the punch around the backside so that it goes out evenly. When out, flip the tire over to do the other side. Save the races. <br /><br />Clean everything and blow out with compressed air if you have it. Place the new race over the hole and put one of the old races over it with the bearing surface facing out. This prevents you from hitting the bearing surface of the new race with a hammer. I put a piece of wood over that. Then start driving the new race home. Take your time at the start so that the race goes in evenly. You may have to flip the old race at some point. When the new race gets seated flip the tire and use the punch to drive the old race out.<br /><br />It is easier to do than to describe.<br /><br />I got my axles/springs installed yesterday after Church. Next is to pull the fenders, paint them and install new brake lines. I will follow that with the bearings/races and two tires.<br /><br />I am not under any real time pressure to get this done as my boat is in Key Largo so am not in a bind for the trailer.

 

[Lark40]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Recess,<br /><br />Don't use OSPHO on any load-bearing part!<br /><br />OSPHO is great for doors and fenders, but it causes hydrogen embrittlement and should NOT be used on frames or springs or bolts.<br /><br />I learned the hard way when a car coil spring broke on me after I brushed it with OSPHO.

 

[recess]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Thanks for the info on the phospho.I was aware of not using Ospho on springs as I had heard this before. The parts I was talking about are the ubolts holding the roller brackets and other attached hardware. Do you see a problem here?<br />thanks.

 

[Lark40]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

The roller brackets may be OK, as would fender brackets. But I wouldn't use Ospho on high-impact ubolts like the bow stop or spring retainers.

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Just a quick update, I had my front axle out yesterday, took it home, beat out all the rusty crusts. I used the wire brush attached to the grinder and cleaned up the axle. it seems to be still in good shape. So I will keep it and fix it up. I put on two coats of black Rustoleum today. It looks like new now.<br /><br />I had a hard time taking of the spring. I was sucessfull at removing the bolt at one end. I gave up trying removing the other. The spring seems to retract a bit without the bolt at the end. Will I need any special tool when I install new springs?

 

[Solittle]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Mr T - When you buy the new springs take the old in with you to get the correct load capacity & size. The size in measured from the center of the hole at each end. For twin axle if can be off a bit as the idler will compensate. No special tools are required. I recommend that you put whatever rust treatment on the new springs & hardware before you install.

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

SoLittle,<br /><br />Trust me, this time rust treatment is the first thing in my mind. I will watch for them like a hawk. I don't want to go through this pain again.<br /><br />Cheers,

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Well, just a follow up on what happen. I finally put the boat in the marina. With the boat off the trailer things are much easier to handle. <br /><br />I got the whole axle, spring assembly off the trailer. I was able to turn some of the nuts after heating them with a torch. There are couple that are so rusted the wrench would slip. So I had to rely of my trusted grinder and cut off the nuts and bolts. Finally with a lot of banging I took everything off.<br /><br />Today, after I repainted the axles, I reassembled the xale and spring assemly. It look good with all the new parts. No more rust on the trailer.<br /><br />Let's keep it that way. I am going to look for the soft seal stuff that was mentioned previously and spray all the exposed steel parts. Since now that the boat is on the water the trailer will have to sit outside for a year. I don't want it to rust again.<br /><br />Cheers,

 

[speedwrench]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

T, just saw this, glad you got boat off trailer. DO NOT use cement blocks, they may not support the load of boat on trailer, and when they fail, there is no warning. <br />If nothing else, a few landscape timbers cut up will <br />support the weight, and are cheap

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Just an update on this. I finished the trailer overhaul project. It was a lot of work, doing and learning. I replaced all the springs, cleaned up all the rust on the axles and hubs and painted them with Rustoleum. I replace the bunks, new woods and new carpets, recarpet the fender/wheel covers, cleaned the electrical connectors. The trailer look great now. I did spray all the bolts and nuts with CRC Rust Inhibitor since I will have to leave the trailer outside for the next 12 months. I did apply some lock-tite chemical on the bolts to make sure the nuts won't come loose.<br /><br />Couple things that I found may be useful for the folks who will go through the same thing. <br />- Heating work: I bought me a little propane torch from Sears and heat up the nuts or bolts for about 5 min before unscrew them. This methos save me a lot of time of grinding down & cuting the bolts and nut.<br />- The really rusted nuts or bolts and always be grinded/cut with a grinder. But this is hard work and sometime you may have to remove what left after grinding is done.<br /><br />I feel much comfort when I tow the trailer around. Now that I know every nut and bolt on this trailer. A little bump or noise no longer worry me.