Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

[Solittle]

I am replacing all of the running gear (springs, etc.) on my galvanized trailer. What is the best coating to retard rust that I can put on the new parts before I install them?<br /><br />Also I am replacing the brake line (again!! - they don't seem to last) and would like to coat it as well but suspect it will need something different than the rest of the stuff.<br /><br />My trailer has held up well for 10 years and gets completely submerged every launch. I have the original bearings and hit the buddy bearings with grease every trip. Blew the rear seal long ago.

 

[Seaboo2]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

POR 15 is the tops in rust proof coating in my oppion.<br /><br />It will work on brake lines too (although I have heard of a PLASTIC retro fit on lins to cure this problem (but I haven't seen any suplirer for this).

 

[PAkev]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Since you indicate your trailer is used almost exclusively in salt water you may want to also consider mounting a fresh water brake flush kit.

 

[Major Woods]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Springs: Get a torsion axle setup, no metal springs to rust.<br />Also wash down springs after evey trip with soap & water rinse, let dry, hit with WD-40.<br /><br />Brake Lines: Get the plastic lines or the stailess ones, they do not rust.<br /><br />Replace that bearing seal, just asking for trouble, easy to do.

 

[crazy charlie]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Rinsing with fresh water right after every use should keep everything fresh.Charlie

 

[Solittle]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Thanks for the input to date -<br /><br />FYI - Re the fresh water flush kit - - My trailer came with drum brakes on one axle. I installed the fresh water flush kit first thing and used it religously. I went through three drum brake assemblies despite fresh water flushing due to rust. I said no more and got the disk brakes and have had them for four years and no rust. Salt water and drum brakes simply do not mix. Yes you can get drum brakes where most all the innards are galvanized - however they cost more than the disks.

 

[Boatist]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Solittle<br />I guess it depends on your trailer But what I like best on a galvanized trailer is the cold galvanizing compoung with zink, also called instant galvanize. The higher the percentage of zink the better. Only comes in primer gray color. My next trailer will be aluminum with torsion bar. I put on the TieDown engineering Stainless steel brakes 4 or 5 years ago also but am starting to have problems with them but will open a new thread. At that time I also put on stainless steel brake lines and they have no rust at all. Got the brake lines from champion trailers.<br /><br />Washing the trailer is a good Idea and nearly every Saltwater ramp out here has a fresh water wash station. Problem is everyone washes the boat, trailer and motors when they retreive but no one washes the trailer when they launch. I have a roller trailer so not much gets wet when I launch still the very back does get wet.<br /><br />If you find something that works real well let us know.

 

[Major Woods]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

The North East has no fresh water wash stations at the ramps.

 

[BillP]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

I spray CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor once every year or two on my trailer frames. It leaves a slight amber color film that lasts through dozens and dozens of launchings and won't rub off easily. It still shows after two years of sitting outside. It ain't cheap but the trailer won't rust with it. Four cans do a 20' boat trailer. I also use it on my aluminum pontoons. This product won the Practical Sailer testing over all other brands, including Boeshield.<br /><br />For the springs, axles, hubs and backside of wheels I use motorcycle chain lube in the spray can. The foaming type penetrates best but the non foaming type lasts longer. When dry it leaves a grease coating that stays on a year or more.<br /><br />I have three trailers and all are dunked in saltwater 99% of the time. None show rust and the oldest is a 1985. I fresh water rinse at home, except for vacations.

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

SoLittle,<br /><br />You are a few step ahead on me on this one. I have a galvanized trailer that was used in saltwater for 5 years. Like your all the steel parts are badly rusted. I plan to replace these parts, spring, axle, bolts & nuts, etc. this weekend. My problem is I can loosen the nuts. I did apply WD-40 on it for a week now. Is there any thing special that you did to loosen the nuts.<br /><br />Also, how do you know which springs & axle are OK for your boat? Or how do you know what is the right part to buy?<br /><br />I appreciate you comments on this. I'm desperate to get this fix.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Mr T - Welcome and come back often - Now to trailers - -<br /><br />I too was concerned about rusted bolts. The three bolts that hold each spring assembly (twin axle tlr) to the trailer rails are 3/4". I was lucky in that one broke. The others I got off by locking a box wrench to the frame using a spring leaf. I used a long torque wrench (for leverage) to get the nuts off. I had no problem getting the nuts off of the U bolts that hold the springs to the axle as I had replaced them a few years ago and painted them with Penatrol. My neighbor has an sir driven impact wrench and I have a compressor so they came off relatively easily.<br /><br />I also have an angle grinder that I may have to use tomarrow to cut off the bolts that attach the fenders. I have never replaced these bolts and the nuts are shot.<br /><br />I got a complete brake line kit in the mail today (ordered from easternmarine.com). I will do that tomarrow and am going to paint it (don't remember the brand but it is supposed to be the best anti rust paint that you can get.<br /><br />On parts chasing - That is a problem - I got my springs at Northern Tool (check their web site only the descriptions/specifications are not that detailed)and they have a pretty good supply of parts. I have also been to one fairly large local marine supply store and Torino Trailer Manufacturer. No one seems to have everything in one place. My advice is to take the old parts off, take them in and say "I want to replace this." I did not have the old parts on two trips and was told by the sales guy that "this" is exactly what you need and of course when I get home "this" did not fit or was the wrong size.<br /><br />On which springs for your boat? - Either replace what you have or call the manufacturer for a recommendation.<br /><br />I am going to replace two of my four tires SP 205/75 R14 and they will cost about $50.00 each including stem, mounting & tax.<br /><br />I plan to do the bearings but don't think I will get that far this weekend.<br /><br />I am coating everything with Penatrol - day to dry - then paint - day to dry - then assemble. Even though this drags the job out I strongly recommend it as my trailer is 10 years old and I know that it would not have lasted half as long if I did not pay a fair amount of attention to it. I am not a fenatic about it but every couple of years I have at the springs, etc.

 

[BillP]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

This company is in Florida and has a good selection and prices.<br /><br /> http://www.trailerpartsandsales.com/trailer_tires.htm

 

[Solittle]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

BillP - Do these folks have a retail outlet & if so where?

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

SoLittle,<br /><br />Thank you for the long response. I have the same problem with my fender nuts. I probably will have to grind down the head of the bolt and take the fender off. People told me about torch the bolt and nut will lossen the bond. But I have not tried that yet. I am going to Homedepot and buy me a hand torch tomorrow and see if I can take the nuts off with a vise-grip.<br /><br />My problem is I have the boat on the trailer right now. Any suggestion of how to work on these things while the boat is on the trailer. I plan to go to Homedepot (again) and get some cement blocks. Jack up the trailer and put in the blocks under. Is that safe?<br /><br />I plan to at least work on my hub this week end. My seal is bad and grease splatering every where on the wheel rim. <br /><br />Keep me update with your progress. I would like to know your experiences on this endeavour.

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Hi All,<br /><br />BTW, how can I find the manufacturer web site for my trailer. On my receipt it indicates that the trailer maker is MCCL. What does that stand for?<br /><br />Thank you for all the help.

 

[BillP]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

SoLittle,<br /> <br />I don't know if they have a drive in retail store Here is the contact info listed on their web site.<br /><br />1-866-488-7278(toll free) <br /> <br />4407 S. Turkey Creek Rd<br />Plant City, FL 33567

 

[Solittle]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Mr. T - Sometimes heat will work and it is worth a try. You could also try a cold steel chisel and a big hammer. I may try to take mine off tomarrow. I have some rust on the underside of the fenders that I want to get at. I am replacing the fender attach bolts with SS so won't have to do it again.<br /><br />I have my trailer on cement blocks on the rear rail now but the boat is not on it so can't advise you there. You could also use regular stands like for automotive use or 1 1/2 ton hydralic jacks under the axle. If you do that I would also put a stack of 2x4"s or something incase the jacks go down.<br /><br />I wasn't able to do much today but did pickup what I hope to be the last of of the parts except for the bearings & tires.

 

[mr T]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

I did jack up my trailer today with the cement block. All the wheels are off the ground. I took off couple wheels and the hubs. My axles are rusted badly, but I think I am going to clean them up and paint them with Rustoleum. <br /><br />I went to Homedepot and got some help, Ms Makita. With the grinder I cut the U-bolts on one of the axle and replaced them with new U-bolts. It looks a lot better. However, I think I will go ahead and replace the spring as well if I can find the replacements. I was a bit nervous at fisrt, but the grinder cut the bolts like butter. <br /><br />I also use the grinder to cuts the bolts that attached the fender to the trailer. I am begin to enjoy grinding things down. I think it much easier and faster that fooling around with the wrenches on those badly rusted bolts.<br /><br />I went to NorthernTools and bought the bearing kits for the hubs. I got the bearings but could not take out the back bearing on the hub. I could not take out the rubber seal. I guess I may have to destroy it to take it out. The races seem to stuck pretty tight on the hub. Any suggestion on how to remove them.<br /><br />That is my progress of today. I plan to redo the carpet on the fender tomorrow. Hopefully I can figure out an easy way to take the races out of the hubs.

 

[recess]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Like all the others on this post, I too have been wrestling with rusted bolts etc. I am working on a Cox super Loader single axle and derusting parts and replacing bolts. Any parts I take off, after blasting the rust off in my cabinet, I dip them in "Phospho", or may also be called "Ospho", which is a phosphoric acid treatment that converts rust and bare metal to phosphorus oxide instead of iron oxide (rust). It's available at just about any paint store or marine supply store worth a hoot. This stuff acts like a primer to seal the metal before painting or treating. Let it sit overnite, rinse off the residue, then paint or treat. Here in Va. Beach, we are lucky enough to have a great trailer supply and repair store. You name it, they got it. I asked about galvanized bolts and was told that they don't supply them anymore. Possibly the EPA regs on disposing of heavy metal based material, but they do recommend using a metal protector like what was suggested in the above posts. It leaves a waxy amber colored coating that seals the treads and metal. I have gone through 4 cans so far and spray it on the threads and bolts, and any other part that will be immersed in salt water. Looks to be pretty cheap preventative maintenance.

 

[recess]

Re: Rust Prevention - Salt Water Trailer

Like all the others on this post, I too have been wrestling with rusted bolts etc. I am working on a Cox super Loader single axle and derusting parts and replacing bolts. Any parts I take off, after blasting the rust off in my cabinet, I dip them in "Phospho", or may also be called "Ospho", which is a phosphoric acid treatment that converts rust and bare metal to phosphorus oxide instead of iron oxide (rust). It's available at just about any paint store or marine supply store worth a hoot. This stuff acts like a primer to seal the metal before painting or treating. Let it sit overnite, rinse off the residue, then paint or treat. Here in Va. Beach, we are lucky enough to have a great trailer supply and repair store. You name it, they got it. I asked about galvanized bolts and was told that they don't supply them anymore. Possibly the EPA regs on disposing of heavy metal based material, but they do recommend using a metal protector like what was suggested in the above posts. It leaves a waxy amber colored coating that seals the treads and metal. I have gone through 4 cans so far and spray it on the threads and bolts, and any other part that will be immersed in salt water. Looks to be pretty cheap preventative maintenance.