If the shift rod can not go down all the way the propshaft will not come out.-----The damage makes it obvious to me that brute force is needed.-----Sorry to be blunt.----And I am not struggling to work on these simple ( to me ) gearcases.
who knows , maybe you could see a bit of broken ally on the front of the gearcase pop out and the thing will drop into reverse.
Ya I think I’m gonna start cutting, delicately, into the case if nothing else just to see whats fu**ed up. Ya never know I might be able to save it. Or maybe save the guts, get a new prop shaft and maybe find an empty gear case? Either way, the boat is wrapped up again as if we’re coming into winter. It might be a month or 2 before I get it fixed. I gotta see how the tax man bends me over this year!Yeah , but how much brute force ,I mean dont beat the crap outa it but maybe give it a few taps ......to start with
Some peeps like doing stuff like this even if its not financially worth it from a business point of view. There is satisfaction in getting to the bottom of the issue..........its like growing your own vegetables instead of buying them ,its not a money thing .
It must go on there because I have been pleasantly surprised how many of you are running older motors because you like older motors . After completing a resto/ rebuild yourself you have something to be proud of but if you just buy a motor all you have is a motor.
I think it’s pretty much an anchor. An expensive one at that! LOL But my curiosity is satisfied. I know what makes it work…. And not work. TBH I’m sure I could fix it, but add up the cost, ( prop shaft alone is $675) and all the work/time, it’s just not worth it. Add in that in the back of my mind I would always be worried that it might fail on me. Once a year we go to Dworshack reservoir for the trophy smallies, and we go up lake about 8 miles or so. There are no boat ramps or much up that way. So if we were to have a problem, that would be a big PROBLEM! We usually go mid/late May. IDK if we’re going to make it this year.Yes Jim I think cutting carefully from the OUTSIDE of your not total SCRAP gearcase is a good plan ,and sussing out just what is not damaged . Just coz some smartypants tells you its scrap aint nessessarily true and anyhow us real mechanics like to find out for ourselves where as some others prefer to remain ignorant. There is no substitute for experiencing stuff personally, its the whole essence of gaining knowledge . This is a lot of whats wrong with the world today , we get youngsters with letters after their names ,cradle marks still on their arses getting important jobs but they have little or no actual hands on experience . I love putting them in their place when needed
That’s interesting. My neighbor has a 60hp that the motor is shot. It’s an early 90s Johnson VRO
Nyah , looks like scrap to me
bonus 
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looks like the parts motor you have MIGHT work as its a fine spline (last year of older style trim pretty interesting). as you said swap shift shafts and see if it will work. it is very possible the driveshaft is too thick though. i feel like ive compared the 2 driveshafts once and the 3 cyl ones had a slightly different taper at the bottom underneath the bearing housing, possibly making the pinion height messed up if you swap your etec driveshaft. nothing to loose at this point though to atleast try. as mentioned shimming is necessary not optional if you get that far!
I can and will measure the drive shaft and also compare to the old one. the old busted prop fits on the prop shaft on the white unit. So, that's a plus. Also, the blue unit (the broken one) has 2 alignment dowels where it bolts up the motor. The white unit doesn't have any. And the holes aren't big enough to accept the dowels. Should I drill those to make em fit, if I get that far? And how critical is shimming the pinion? As you said, at this point it's worth a try. I could pay the $2600 tomorrow for a refurbed unit, but, I got other things that I need that $$$ for. Like a 28x40 concrete pad that I've just been waiting for the weather. And it's almost time!!!
I can and will measure the drive shaft and also compare to the old one. the old busted prop fits on the prop shaft on the white unit. So, that's a plus. Also, the blue unit (the broken one) has 2 alignment dowels where it bolts up the motor. The white unit doesn't have any. And the holes aren't big enough to accept the dowels. Should I drill those to make em fit, if I get that far? And how critical is shimming the pinion? As you said, at this point it's worth a try. I could pay the $2600 tomorrow for a refurbed unit, but, I got other things that I need that $$$ for. Like a 28x40 concrete pad that I've just been waiting for the weather. And it's almost time!!!
