Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Teamster

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

How do you ventilate these? I've never put together a fuel system like that. I must confess that I like the idea of it being accessible as opposed to buried belowdecks...but your point on capacity is a good one.

Have a look at Jas's Islander thread,....................He covered the topic of the under deck fuel tank really well,......

I think most have a vent hose that follows up to the gunnel where the tank fill would be placed,......

On your boat I think I would build a panel on the port side of the cuddy from the gunnel down behind which the tank fill and vent could run to a tank in the floor,.....
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Thanks guys...I appreciate the info on tanks. I'll check out Jas' thread, too.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

This is the USCG requirements for a below deck fuel tank... compliments of JBC:
Underfloor fuel tanks need to meet these regs:
Fuel_Tank_new.jpg


Making your own fuel tank. What are the legal rules?


[CITE: 33CFR183.510][Page 777-778] TITLE 33--NAVIGATION AND NAVIGABLE WATERS CHAPTER I--COAST GUARD, DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION (CONTINUED) PART 183--BOATS AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT--Table of Contents Subpart J--Fuel Systems Sec. 183.510 Fuel tanks. (a) Each fuel tank in a boat must have been tested by its manufacturer[[Page 778]]under Sec. 183.580 and not leak when subjected to the pressure marked on the tank label under Sec. 183.514(b)(5). (b) Each fuel tank must not leak if subjected to the fire test under Sec. 183.590. Leakage is determined by the static pressure test under Sec. 183.580, except that the test pressure must be at least one-fourth PSIG. (c) Each fuel tank of less than 25 gallons capacity must not leak if tested under Sec. 183.584. (d) Each fuel tank with a capacity of 25 to 199 gallons must not leak if tested under Sec. 183.586. (e) Each fuel tank of 200 gallons capacity or more must not leak if tested under Secs. 183.586 and 183.588.[CGD 74-209, 42 FR 5950, Jan. 31, 1977, as amended by CGD 81-092, 48 FR 55736, Dec. 15, 1983][CITE: 33CFR183.512][Page 778] TITLE 33--NAVIGATION AND NAVIGABLE WATERS CHAPTER I--COAST GUARD, DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION (CONTINUED) PART 183--BOATS AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT--Table of Contents Subpart J--Fuel Systems Sec. 183.512 Fuel tanks: Prohibited materials. (a) A fuel tank must not be constructed from terneplate. (b) Unless it has an inorganic sacrificial galvanic coating on the inside and outside of the tank, a fuel tank must not be constructed from black iron or carbon steel. (c) A fuel tank encased in cellular plastic or in fiber reinforced plastic must not be constructed from a ferrous alloy.[CGD 74-209, 42 FR 5950, Jan. 31, 1977; 42 FR 24739, May 16, 1977] Sec. 183.590 Fire test. (a) A piece of equipment is tested under the following conditions and procedures: (1) Fuel stop valves, USCG Type A1'' or USCG Type A2'' hoses and hose clamps are tested in a fire chamber. (2) Fuel filters, strainers, and pumps are tested in a fire chamber or as installed on the engine in the boat. (3) Fuel tanks must be tested filled with fuel to one-fourth the capacity marked on the tank in a fire chamber or in an actual or simulated hull section. (b) Each fire test is conducted with free burning heptane and the component must be subjected to a flame for 2\1/2\ minutes. (c) If the component is tested in a fire chamber:[[Page 784]] (1) The temperature within one inch of the component must be at least 648 deg.C sometime during the 2\1/2\ minute test; (2) The surface of the heptane must be 8 to 10 inches below the component being tested; and (3) The heptane must be in a container that is large enough to permit the perimeter of the top surface of the heptane to extend beyond the vertical projection of the perimeter of the component being tested. (d) If the component is being tested as installed on an engine, heptane sufficient to burn 2\1/2\ minutes must be poured over the component and allowed to run into a flat bottomed pan under the engine. The pan must be large enough to permit the perimeter of the top surface of the heptane to extend beyond the vertical projection of the perimeter of the engine. (e) If a fuel tank is being tested in an actual or simulated hull section, the actual or simulated hull section must be of sufficient size to contain enough heptane to burn for 2\1/2\ minutes in a place adjacent to the tank.[CGD 74-209, 42 FR 5950, Jan. 31, 1977, as amended by CGD 77-98, 42 FR 36253, July 14, 1977; CGD 85-098, 52 FR 19729, May 27, 1987]
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Very cool. That's exactly what I needed^.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Thanks Jig.

It should be noted that that is the NEW regs for boat manufacturers... But environmental concerns aren't unfounded.... I usually use it for: Can't I weld up my own tank from some old aluminum I've got laying around... questions mostly.

Underfloor tanks can be great to free up storage above decks. And like many things in boat building, when done right, can be much easier then many think. Moeller & others have lots of below deck tank info on their websites.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

You should also know that a belly tank has to have sealed bulkheads fore and aft of the tank in case there's a leak, so the tank won't drain itself into the bilge. this can cause problems for below deck drainage along the keel of the boat and out the drain plug in the transom.

I personally would rather have a fuel cell that would be more readily accessible should an emergency happen, and I'm sure if you wanted a bigger tank you could find one that fits just as nicely under your splashwell as the one you have now. That is a wide boat and a Hugh Jass splashwell.
 

MichaelP

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

That boat is identical to mine and for $250 you stole it!!!! Check out my resto link in the signature below and feel free to PM me with any questions you might have. I did some mods like what your talking about including shortening the splashwell and keel tank. I hope you keep the cuddy in place, if you want an open SC try to pick up a SS.

I agree with others here on the 115 Merc. I'd go back for it and resell if you can't easily get it going.

I'll be keeping an eye on this one...Good luck!
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

That boat is identical to mine and for $250 you stole it!!!! Check out my resto link in the signature below and feel free to PM me with any questions you might have. I did some mods like what your talking about including shortening the splashwell and keel tank. I hope you keep the cuddy in place, if you want an open SC try to pick up a SS.

I agree with others here on the 115 Merc. I'd go back for it and resell if you can't easily get it going.

I'll be keeping an eye on this one...Good luck!

Michael, I've had the pleasure of checking out your boat several times this week! You did a really beautiful job on that one. Cool story behind yours, too.

I've decided to keep mine original, including the giant splashwell. As others have suggested, I'll use that for battery and likely fuel tank storage. If my 18 gallon tank checks out per streetgang's advice, I'm just going to use that. I have portables that can supplement that if needed.

Thanks for stopping by the thread, fellow Chieftain owner and New Englander!

I was going through your thread and saw that you removed the gunwale air scoops. My first question is: what were these for, originally? Did the ducts run all the way to the transom area? Thanks.
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Ya jig, no boat work today, either:lol:

MVzBz3s.png
 

MichaelP

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Cold, yes, but the days are getting longer:cool: Good to see another New Englander around here.
There was a tank under the port seat in the original configuration so they just vented downward. Not sure why there was also a vent on the starboard side, symmetry I guess.

The biggest reason why I modified the splashwell is for more cockpit space. If I were to do it all over again I would have made the splashwell like the new models and reinforced it all with aluminum angle. I was worried that having gas and batteries back there would make her arse heavy so I had other plans for those.

Excellent decision on keeping her original!!!!!!! There arent many out there.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

... and that's why I live where I do. The low this morning was 33* and it's going up to 54* for a high, then down to 41* tonight for a low.

Maybe we'll have an early spring so you can get to work.
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Cold, yes, but the days are getting longer:cool: Good to see another New Englander around here.
There was a tank under the port seat in the original configuration so they just vented downward. Not sure why there was also a vent on the starboard side, symmetry I guess.

The biggest reason why I modified the splashwell is for more cockpit space. If I were to do it all over again I would have made the splashwell like the new models and reinforced it all with aluminum angle. I was worried that having gas and batteries back there would make her arse heavy so I had other plans for those.

Excellent decision on keeping her original!!!!!!! There arent many out there.

Yeah, the afternoons are getting noticeably longer right now.

OK, those scoops make sense now. Guess I won't be needing them. Again, really awesome work on your boat, man. I'm going to get mine safe and running and try to use it a bunch this summer. I don't have the luxury of another SS in the yard! I'll try to get paint/cosmetic stuff done in between lake trips, but, for where you've set the bar, it'll be a few seasons to get there. Cheers.
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

This isn't exactly restoration related, but I know that people jump on deals for kickers very quickly. I found this one for next to nothing--not running--but I have no experience or word of mouth on Tohatsus (yeah, it says "tomatsu"). Are they decent? Am I correct in thinking that they were made by Nissan? I feel like I could probably get it running if it's a common carb/spark/fuel issue. Thanks. Boat motor Tomatsu 8hp doesnt run
 

jigngrub

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Tohatsu's are excellent motors, and I think they actually make the Nissans. Some of the Tohatsu's are commercial grade and bulletproof.

... but you may want to do a compression check on that motor before you buy it... or not.
 

River_Lizard

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

I like the idea of a double vent, makes a lot of sense to assure that there's always venting from the tank regardless of the angle of the fuel in the tank. Thanks for posting this.

This is the USCG requirements for a below deck fuel tank... compliments of JBC:
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Tohatsu's are excellent motors, and I think they actually make the Nissans. Some of the Tohatsu's are commercial grade and bulletproof.

... but you may want to do a compression check on that motor before you buy it... or not.

Thanks jig...that's good to hear. I'm meeting the guy tomorrow, and I'll bring my tester and give it a few yanks just to see that there is some compression.
 

GA_Boater

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Hey Chem - At worst the Tomato 8 hp is only a bad 75 buck investment with a little thrown in for parts. At best the seller has no idea and it might only need the kill switch hooked up. Who knows? Good luck.
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Hey Chem - At worst the Tomato 8 hp is only a bad 75 buck investment with a little thrown in for parts. At best the seller has no idea and it might only need the kill switch hooked up. Who knows? Good luck.

Yeah, exactly what I'm thinking. I have a Tohatsu dealer about 20 miles south of here, too, so they should have parts.
 

laurentide

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

That Tohatsu was seized, but I gave the guy $40 and took it home. I'm just going to soak it for a week or so and see if it frees up. I'll take this to the engine forums if I have any issues.

For the sake of full disclosure, I am in possession of a substantial Lowes gift card, a generous x-mas gift. That said, I'm obviously going to try to max it out on this project. Which leads to this question: Has anyone here had any experience with "plytanium," which is an exterior grade 3/4" BC flooring material? I actually got the one guy at Lowes who knew anything about it, and he claims that it's very tough and formed under 10,000 #s of pressure, as well as extremely water resistant thanks to the pressurized impregnation of the adhesive. It's pretty cheap at under $40/sheet, and looks like, well, plywood. It's also cheap enough that I can make my gunwale covers and bulkheads with it.

Bummer about that kicker, but we'll see if she breaks free in a few days. I'm going to drop the lower unit, too, to see if that might be fubar'ed as well.

Thanks in advance for any feedback on that plytanium stuff.
 

1973Chieftain

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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

If that's their exterior grade ply, I used it for my SC transom (not that orange stuff they sell). I found it had quite a few large voids all the way through it, I had to fill 4 voids just in the small transom pieces. But I would expect it would work fine for flooring. I think I paid about $34/sheet
 
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