Rolling Torque Measurement

jastacdoss

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Volvo Penta 3.0gspefs with sx-m 1.97. Had to remove input shaft bearing carrier due to leaking seal. When I removed the outdrive the tabs on the bearing carrier were snapped off so I purchased all new bearings and housing. I am now in the process of putting everything back together.

My question is how do I measure the rolling torque? I have searched this forum and google and can only find references to what the rolling torque should be, not how to do it. What I have gathered thus far...
Tighten the shaft nut to 140ft-lb initially and check rolling torque and tighten 1/16 of a turn and recheck until 6-10 in. lbs rolling torque is achieved.
Is this as simple as turning the bolt with an in-lb torque wrench set at 6in-lb while the carrier housing is in a vise?

appreciate your help!
 

jastacdoss

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Yeah, I'm using that already, all it says it to measure rolling torque to be between 6-10 in-lb. It doesn't say HOW to measure it...
 

Scott Danforth

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does it say in-lb or just #. if it says in-lb, then you need to know the radius of the housing you are rotating

usually you wrap a string around the beairng and rolling torque is the torque required to keep the housing rotating. I use a digital in-line scale (fish scale).
 

jastacdoss

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Thanks tpenfield! Exactly what I was looking for. Do you measure how much it takes to start it turning or keep it turning, I saw that debate somewhere else...
 

tpenfield

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Thanks tpenfield! Exactly what I was looking for. Do you measure how much it takes to start it turning or keep it turning, I saw that debate somewhere else...

In the picture, I am turning the wrench so the the dial reads the torque it takes as you are turning. Although my engine/outdrive is a Mercruiser, the torque spec was the same 6-10 in-lbs. I really did not look at the gauge until the wrench was turning the assembly and you need to turn the wrench slowly so that you have enough time to get a consistent reading. You are only going to be able to turn the assembly about 1/2 a revolution, but that should be enough to get a good reading.

My bearings were new (replaced them) so I set the torque towards the upper end of the spec. If it was just a re-assembly of the old bearings, I would have put them towards the lower end of the spec. If the VP are the same design, you do not want to tighten the nut much to adjust, because if you over tighten and the rolling torque gets to be too high (above 10 in-lbs), then you have to pry the whole thing apart and start over.
 

jastacdoss

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Thanks for the info! Yeah, new bearings and new housing for me. My next question... How did you verify if you needed to shim the bearing carrier once the assembly is all back together?
 

tpenfield

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Thanks for the info! Yeah, new bearings and new housing for me. My next question... How did you verify if you needed to shim the bearing carrier once the assembly is all back together?

I don't remember about verifying the shims. As I recall, everything seemed OK with the existing shims.

I guess the new housing would make a difference though.
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Scott Danforth

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agreed on the VP manual

the crush sleeve is between the bearings in the input carrier. rolling torque is set here (or replace the crush sleeve and start over). the input carrier is then set up to the upper gear box with shims (backlash and bluing) to get proper gear mesh.
 
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