RKL-24-L Proud daddy of twins. Maybe

[KillerKilgore]

I just bought a set of matching 1962 Johnson 40HP outboards along with the power control box. Looks like they were stored in a barn for years. Rats scat and time has taken their toll on them. But they are not locked up. Wiring will all have to be replaced.

Where should I start. I have a Seloc manual 59-72 1.5-125 HP. The guy I got them from said he tested the magnetic engagement for F and R and that works. Said he tested compression with 2 different testers. One tester showed 90lbs the other showed 100lbs. Don't know if it was on one engine or both. Assuming it was both engines and both cylinders. Said he rebuilt the starters also.

I think the 1st thing I need to do is spray 2cycle oil in cylinders. Work around a little then check compression myself.

Then replace every wire on the engines. Then rebuild carbs. Then replace ignition system. Points and so for.

What gauge wire should I use on n the engine? Stranded 10 gauge? 12 gauge? I have plenty of 16 and 18 gauge speaker wire around 500' plus.

What would the experts here recommend on the repair/test order? Does my order sound right?

I got a few toys I plan on sellings to pay for this. Got a 2006 Yamaha Kodiak. A 2013 CFMOTO UForce 600. Two 7.5hp Eskas. A 4hp Mercury. A 1959 (?) 14' Applebee V bottom but it needs work. A 2000 Chevy Blazer. But so far everybody wants to trade. Nobody has Cash or want they want me to give it away. Y'all know how it goes.

Anyway, what order should I start with to bring these outboards back to life. With work progress will be slow.

 

[jimmbo]

This is way better than a Seloc

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/e/ea/Johnsonservice002.pdf

Hope those Shift Switches in the Control Boxes are good. As they are very expensive to replace.

A new water pump impeller
New Coils under the Flywheel as the old ones are likely cracked
Being those are Electric Shift, they require a Type C gear lube. BRP was selling it under the name, Premium Blend. There are some 3rd Party Type C oils, but not all are usable in the Electric Shifts.
Once you get them running I would recommend running some Power Tune, or Engine Cleaner thru them. Don't bother with SeaFoam, there are much better cleaners out there.
Do you have the Junction Boxes? That is where the Solenoids and Voltage Regulators are, and you will need the Generators working as the Shift Coils will drain the Battery, and can leave you paddling.
My dad had the 1963 version of that engine.

 

[racerone]

Those compression numbers are not good.-----Remove bypass covers and inspect pistons and rings.-----Do a complete evaluation before you spend any beer tokens on these.----Agreed you need the belts for the generators .----Generators must work.-----You need all the controls and junction boxes too.

 

[KillerKilgore]

Jimmbo,
Thanks for the link to PDF and info on foot oil.

Jimmbo and racerone,

I have the control boxes for the F and R. Now if they work I have no ideal. But I'm keeping my fingers and eyes crossed hoping that they are.

I have both generators (hope they work) and one belt. At least I can cross the number on belt and maybe get two belts.

I haven't had flywheel off but I can tell that everything under there is shot. Previous said they were. And I'm just guessing from age and the rest of the outboards.

Racerone,
What should the compression be?
Where is the bypass covers? Is it parts 13 in the pic



Also just a question. IF the shift solenoids are shot. Could I take a on/off/on rocker switch and 2 regular solenoid. Connect one side of rocker to one solenoid and have that solenoid feed the forward gear. When rocker switch is off neither solenoid gets power. The rock the other way and send power to the reverse solenoid? Just asking for future reference. I don't have the throttle controls.

 

[jimmbo]

#13 are the Covers for the Transfer Passages
Those Motors only had about a 6:1 compression Ratio, so the numbers aren't going to be all that high. 14.7lbs/sqin atmospheric, works out to about 90spi
Those are Coils, and become electromagnets when energized, they rarely go bad unless the hub next to them made contact. In the Johnson control box, it was basically a Rocker Switch. Two wires come up from the Gearbox, one is for reverse, the other forward. The control box is the Throttle control

 

[racerone]

Need the junction boxes with voltage regulator and solenoid.

 

[KillerKilgore]

I do have a solenoid. It's currently laying in the back on one of the engines in first set of pics. Only thing you can see of it a lug and wire going to it. Can get a better pic Saturday.

Below what I have as far as the electronics goes (minus the solenoid). It's NASTY. And that is putting it mildly. I'm thinking the bigger box is the voltage regulator and the smaller is the F R control.

 

[KillerKilgore]

Jimmbo, that is pretty. Thanks for the pic.

Just wondering if those two outboards would be too much for a 196x StarCraft jet 15 ? Could I beef up the transom to support all the weight?

 

[lindy46]

The large junction box does contain the regulator. Whether it is any good is another question. You need one for each motor. I'm not sure what that smaller box is. Once you soak the cylinders and turn the motor over, compression may come up. 110+psi would be considered good. Why do you want to put both motors on a 15 foot boat? One would push it pretty good. Two may be too much for the boat. That's close to 300 pounds.

 

[racerone]

Generator fuse ( field ) is a 4 amp if memory is correct.----Have not worked on one in a while.

 

[Crosbyman]

insurance /civil liabilities to consider if you overpower !!

 

[KillerKilgore]

Well didn't do a lot over weekend. Removed flywheel and removed the coils and points on engine 1. Put Twc3 oil in plug holes and spun by hand a few time. Compression test top cylinder had 100psi bottom about 103 psi.
The points didn't look that bad but coils were gone.

Pulled flywheel on engine 2. Removed the coil and the points. Oil in cylinder. Spun. 103psi on top and 100psi on bottom.

Think I'm actually going to use a nova2 ignition module instead of points on these. I used one to replace the points on a eska 5hp. The 5hp would idle smoother, less RMP, and at WOT it ran great and smoother than it did with points.