risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

RIDEPATE

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 8, 2001
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324
O.K. I want to buy some new risers and mans. from Dennis Moore, whats the pros and cons between <br />alum and cast iron besides the weight difference??I know the alum wont scale as bad in fresh water as the iron ones but what about the warp/crack factor due to heat?? What else do I need to consider?? Thanks,<br /> Jimbo
 

Chris1956

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Re: risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

Ridepate, I read an article by some boat surveyer who stated that aluminum was a bad choice for the exhaust manifold due to differences in expansion due to heat and corrosive effects of different metals(cast iron block, aluminum manifold touching). If you run in fresh water, the cast iron manifolds should last 20 years of so. Isn't that long enough?
 

yoced

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Oct 8, 2003
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Re: risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

Expansion is a worse problem when you are using different metals on the exhaust vs riser - because there you have a narrow sealing area (most exhaust parts attempt to have a 3/8" wall), which can be a problem if the sealing areas are not moving at the same rate under heat.<br /><br />For instance, if my numbers are correct, a 5" section of aluminum riser would grow by 1.6 thousanths of an inch (.00156) at 600*F, while the same section of iron underneath would only be growing by 1/2 of that (.00072 in). It may not seem like much, but it is often enough to keep a gasket from sealing to both units.<br /><br />A scarier thought is the melting point of Aluminum. Cast iron melts at 2150*F. Aluminum has already hit its melting point (1220*F) around the time cast iron turns cherry red. <br /><br />This may not seem like a problem, your exhaust components are not _supposed_ to get that hot. But every once in a while they do - a bit of bad timing, some pinging perhaps, and / or maybe add some clogged water passages. Whatever the cause, sometimes things heat up in there.<br /><br />If the Aluminum fails, it fails BIG TIME. Bam whoosh, no inner wall on the manifold and a boat load of water in your engine. Or, perhaps worse, into your bilge - ever wanna bet on a race between a bilge pump and a seawater pump? The bilge pump may win, but I would not want my money on that horse.<br /><br />If cast iron fails from heat and stress it merely cracks. Often letting a fairly large amount of water into your engine, but nothing catastrophic.<br /><br />The odds on failure are perhaps not enough to scare most folks (after all, we have been running aluminum heads for years now), and I agree that those odds may be long enough to live with. But you are paying exta money for that? <br /><br />If I was paying extra money for exhaust parts I would look to a performance stainless header system, especially if my sig line was "In thrust we trust". Other than that I would stick with the iron. It is cheaper, lasts long enough, and has a greater tolerance against extreme failure.<br /><br />Sorry for the soapbox - getting down now. :)
 

RIDEPATE

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Re: risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

Yoced-Chris, <br /> Thanks for the input, your input was well listened to. I really thought the alum was'nt a wise choice in the first place, so I'm gonna stick to the good ole iron ore!!As far as headers go, from my experience with hot rods they are always problematic and a pain to deal with. <br /> The manifolds from Mr. Moore are performance manifolds and the exhaust exits within are different from stock type manifolds so a small performance gain will be there. Anyways my boat is already scary-fast for a 19 ft boat (72 on gps)so any faster and it might just take-off!!! Thanks
 

akriverrat

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Oct 31, 2002
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Re: risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

how hot does the exhaust have to get to tulip the exhaust valves? i ran my 4.3 for over 100 hours with 6 degrees btdc total advance idle to 4200rpm(long story). no harm done to my manifolds. in salt water the aluminum product has been lasting for ten+ years. try that with cast iron. exhaust gaskets made for aluminum heads are designed to compensate for differential expansion and would work fine. i was told by a tech at kodiak marine to skip the gasket entirely. not needed. second season without problems. all their engines come with aluminum manifolds. they should know, they have to pay for warranty repairs on the product they sell. if you don't care about the 50% weight saving, the increased life span, or increased performance... stick with cast iron. my personal experience and opinion for what its worth.
 

Bondo

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Re: risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

I'm with akriverrat on this 1......<br /><br />yoced raises a few points that I can't see happening......<br />Only if there was a Total Lack of Water in them,<br />Could they Melt......<br />And,<br />If it got That Far,<br />You'd have Already Blown the Engine.........
 

yoced

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 8, 2003
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Re: risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

It is probably true that I overstated my case here. I am not trying to say that aluminum manifolds don't work - they do. It is just the nature of my job to see the worst case results, and sometimes I let that color my responses a bit too much.
 

Bondo

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Re: risers and manifolds-iron or alum...

the nature of my job to see the worst case results
And You're Danm Good At It.............. :D <br />Can't Argue your #s........ <br />Personally, I'm going to Take that Risk.........<br />I've got a set of Kodiacks for the current Project......... ;)
 
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