Returning member to the Starmada - 18' Supersport or Offshore?

[nrf414]

Thanks for stopping by and dropping kind words. Didn't get much really done today. Grunt work as Rob would put it lol I finished all the fasteners on the inside of the splashwell all 500 stainless screws :lol: then I moved to installing bilge pump while I was back there. Last year I just through it in there without a bracket. Screw holes were in the bottom of the pump cover. But the previous bilge pump have been screwed into the side of the knee brace. So I decided to Fab up my own bracket out of an extra piece of aluminum from the boat. Well it sounds stupid, I feel as this was a good piece of progress for something I've never done. Also got more Spar on the wood.

and here it is installed. I did see that a small section of splashwell starting to separate. With all the screws, it isn't going anywhere.

I started to paint the bow section inside with some Rusto in a can and I don't like the way the first coat turned out. Good chance I'm just going to use my sprayer and the excess of white paint I have and spray it.

 

[Watermann]

The bilge pump on a bracket is a great idea and if it needs replaced having the cartridge type makes it easier. Here's mine with the separate float switch.

I never have liked the way SC did the SW with those 500 screws, you'll be surprised and happy when you get your V5 hull one day.

 

[nrf414]

The bilge pump on a bracket is a great idea and if it needs replaced having the cartridge type makes it easier. Here's mine with the separate float switch.

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I never have liked the way SC did the SW with those 500 screws, you'll be surprised and happy when you get your V5 hull one day.

I like the way you think :happy: I was hoping here soon we would see more ads going up for old tin. Seems like it's all flat bottom aluminum around me. I'll keep my options open

 

[baldwibr]

These are great ideas of ways to mount the bilge pump. I may have to do that with mine!!

 

[nrf414]

Doing some dry fitting. Got seat supports in under the floor and Tee nuts installed. Isn't pretty below the deck but sure is on top. Then this morning put the transducer on trolling motor. And tested fitment on new tank.

 

[Watermann]

Moving right along, you'll be ready to hit the water by spring time right? :lol:

 

[nrf414]

:lol: yeah hopefully April. Birthday is the 3rd. Be a great bday gift to myself to take a opening cruise.

 

[nrf414]

Did some more grunt work.

-put down 2 more coats of spar on cut wood
-installed retractable the down straps on trailer
-attached control cables to new remote control
-Pre assembled hose clamps on fuel lines
-sorted electrics box for when that time comes I can grab and go

nothing really pic worthy.

guess I got to upgrade my steering :laugh: can't find little bracket to attach rack to back of helm.

would really like the No Feedback type. Seems reasonable enough. It would be my 2nd steering cable install. The QC kind are better in my opinion.

 

[Watermann]

You'll find the bracket sometime after you get the new helm. :lol:

Yeah for me the new SeaStar NFB 4.2 was one heck of an upgrade from the old R&P from 1979.

 

[nrf414]

I'm thinking I will get this one , not sure if tilt is worth the extra cash or not. Thinking not. 100 bones can buy more building supplies or gas

I'm hoping the buying is done all by next week :laugh: well see.

should be done with all wood and deck down by Monday. Then I'll hit the seams with fiberglass and epoxy and then it will be time for Kiwi. Might order some extra kiwi so I can hit the panels since I was against wrapping in vinyl or carpet.

I'm going to work from a topside down approach starting with them and painting covering down from there. I'm afraid I will splooge paint on the floor or some how otherwise mess it up.

Nice thing about your own work, it can be whatever you decide.

 

[Decker83]

You are really making great progress.. Everything looks good.
What type of seat base and post did you use?

 

[BWR1953]

...I'm hoping the buying is done all by next week :laugh: well see...

Is the buying ever all done? :lol:

 

[nrf414]

You are really making great progress.. Everything looks good.
What type of seat base and post did you use?

Base is Springfield the 1300750-1. It's 2 3/8 plug in style
pedestal is 9" Springfield 2 and 3/8 driver rated and seat base is Springfield Marine 1100031-L1 Pedestal Swivel Locking Base. I basically looked at the starcraft website and a few new boats in person and noticed this setup was similar to what they use. I'm pleased so far. Can't wait to see what it looks like after all the interior paint and panels are in.


Won't be long now.

 

[nrf414]

Is the buying ever all done? :lol:

No probably not.

 

[Decker83]

Base is Springfield the 1300750-1. It's 2 3/8 plug in style
pedestal is 9" Springfield 2 and 3/8 driver rated and seat base is Springfield Marine 1100031-L1 Pedestal Swivel Locking Base. I basically looked at the starcraft website and a few new boats in person and noticed this setup was similar to what they use. I'm pleased so far. Can't wait to see what it looks like after all the interior paint and panels are in.


Won't be long now.

Thanks. That is exactly what I wanted to know..eace: I have been looking at Springfield's and really like their products.

I hear ya on getting her done.. At the speed your going, it will not be long..:tea:

 

[nrf414]

Thanks Decker83 I'm keeping after her. :lol: got the gunnels ready for masking and paint tonight. Will paint later this week. Time to relax a little. Fished from the bank today. It was like 37° and gusting wind. Nothing. Fresh air and boy did I need that

 

[nrf414]

I did get the masking ready but then I decided to move to the bow support piece. I was actually able to get that out with some finessing without taking off the cap or the aluminum cover. After I got to thinking about it and contemplated just letting it go I decided it would be easier to put my plywood reinforcement in after removing the aluminum cap.

I did a bunch of searching but couldn't find anyone that clearly detailed this removal or perhaps I overlooked it. So I started with removing the bow cap there are four rivets underneath that I drilled out to gain access. Then I gently persuaded the cap off with a flat-head screwdriver and small amounts of force. Next I drilled out the rivets at the end of the rub rails. After that they were a little bit tight but was able to remove them. I began to remove the screws they were holding the rub rail trim on and notice they were extra difficult. After stripping to out and then drilling them out, I decided to spray them with penetrating oil from the back side. They did not have any nuts or Fasteners the hold them in just the screws. I could tell after removing one that they had some corrosion on the threads or maybe old 5200. So rather than removing all of them I just remove the ones I needed to take the cap off. Then I remove the cap after drilling out the final rivets on the inside trim. While it will take some time to put back together it should be a lot easier and more secure working with my support structure and plywood reinforcement for the trolling motor and fish finder.

corroded fastener making life difficult momentarily

This is why I have to upgrade my steering

going to NFB4.2 rotary system with new wheel.

 

[MNhunter1]

Yeah, that cap really needs to come off in order to effectively address/replace the bow support. I replaced all my wood with new sealed ply and reinstalled the gunnels and bow cover with all new rivets. The steps are all documented somewhere in the various threads throughout the years, but yes, nothing consolidated in an easy to find location. I see many leave the gunnels and such attached, but I have always found it easier to just remove it all. I think the most difficult part is prying off that nose cap without breaking it. The hull sometimes takes a little convincing to get all the rivet holes lined back up again as well, but the use of clecos and sometimes even a ratchet strap to pull the sides of the hull into alignment helps bring everything together nice and tight. An air riveter is a huge asset in reinstalling as well.

Lining up and drilling the new holes for the gunnel brackets can be a bit of a process, but I found a good flex shaft drill extension helps a lot. Also, don't forget to punch a hole on both sides to run any wiring from the bow.

I just ordered the 4.2 NFB steering kit as well.

Lookin' good!

PS - I think those bolts for the rub rail channel should all have nuts on the back. Myself and WM have also used some extra long LF head blind rivets with the head ground down in place of those machine screws also. They work great for those areas where you don't have easy access to the nut. I messed up my whole photo album during the PB cluster, but I'll look to see if I can find a photo. Otherwise, I know WM has it documented in his V5 rebuild.

 

[nrf414]

Yeah Rob said they should have and I went back and looked thinking that may have been my problem at first bit none did. The PB thing really stinks. It's honestly not that difficult. I didn't know I was up against that nasty corrosion. In think my hull had seen salt before because the one layer of blue paint under the white on the bottom looked like bottom paint.

I'm looking to have this area buttoned-up by the weekend. Even though I put in 40 hours in 3 days it's the least busiest outside of work. The target for this weekend is to be finished with that and get ready for and inside the gunwales paint on Monday.

 

[Watermann]

With tough work comes great reward!

Like MN said about drilling the holes, use a hole saw bit on both ends of the bow support piece so wiring can go though up under the gunnels. The bow support also has to be made flat which makes the rivet holes not line up around the edge of the bow cover but it's the only way to have a flat bow cover.