Replacing trailer axle... what are the considerations?

[jimmwaller]

Just a side question: if I do end up replacing my axle, do I need to get the exact same style? I mentioned earlier that I had a drop axle, where the spindle was not exactly inline with the rest of the axle (like, the axle sits low, and then the spindle sits a few inches above, attached by a plate). But I don't see a drop axle that I can buy that has the right dimensions. Can I just get a straight axle (where the spindle is inline with the axle) and that would be fine? As I understand it, that would raise my trailer up a few inches, but I don't see what else that would change. Am I missing something or is that a swap I can make with no problems?

Or, is there any reason I need to stick with a square axle if that's what I have now?

Thanks!

 

[Lou C]

Those aspects can be changed you might have check the clearance between the top of the axle & frame. You want to make sure when the springs flex to the max the top of the axle doesn’t hit the frame. I went from a straight axle to a 4” drop to get it lower. Boat sat too high due to roller design so I lowered it with the drop axle & lower roller mounts. In total I was able to lower the boat 2 1/2”, not as much as you’d think because the taller 2x3 axle requires more clearance so I had to use the lower holes for the spring mounts, but necessary to have an axle of adequate capacity.

 

[jimmwaller]

@Lou C Thanks for the info! I think I may not fully be understanding what you're saying, though. I guess I can't conceptualize how the top of the axle would get any closer to the frame by switching from a drop axle to a straight axle. My intuition is that the only thing that would change is the relative position of the wheels, putting them inline with the axle as opposed to having the axle dropped a little below the wheel center. But then wouldn't going from a drop axle to a straight axle would just move the whole frame up? Or what am I missing here?
Thanks!!

 

[JimS123]

It sounds like this is not at all straightforward since its not a simple axle. Reviewing your picture again, boy all the fasteners are simply oozing out rust. I can't see an easy job removing any existing part.

The trailer is painted. I can only imagine how bad the inside of the frame is.

Personally, I wouldn't spend a nickle on that trailer. I realize second hand is hard to find, and new is expensive. But safety and liability trumps everything else.

 

[Lou C]

That was in my case I was going from a 2x2 straight axle to a 2x3 drop axle. In your case that won't be an issue most likely but the trailer will sit higher up, which may not really matter.

 

[jimmwaller]

@JimS123 what makes you say that the trailer is painted? I think it's galvanized, and the consensus is that it was hot dipped. The back section of the frame is open and I can see pretty far inside the frame, and it looks like it's in great shape (no rust that I can see) and appears to be fully galvanized. But, of course, I'd like to be 100% sure before I put any money into it, so if you're seeing something else, please point out what you're looking at so I can double-check!

I'll also add: My plan was not really to spend a lot of time taking off the fasteners... was planning on just grinding through the ones that are there and replacing with brand new. Is there any downside to that?

Thanks!

 

[JimS123]

@JimS123 what makes you say that the trailer is painted? I think it's galvanized, and the consensus is that it was hot dipped. The back section of the frame is open and I can see pretty far inside the frame, and it looks like it's in great shape (no rust that I can see) and appears to be fully galvanized. But, of course, I'd like to be 100% sure before I put any money into it, so if you're seeing something else, please point out what you're looking at so I can double-check!

I'll also add: My plan was not really to spend a lot of time taking off the fasteners... was planning on just grinding through the ones that are there and replacing with brand new. Is there any downside to that?

Thanks!

In your picture it looks like it it is painted white. But I'm not there so I can't see it in person.

 

[jimmwaller]

Ah, got it

In your picture it looks like it it is painted white. But I'm not there so I can't see it in person.

Ah, got it! Yes, I think the photos are misleading. It definitely looks galvanized, but my plan is to smack it all over with a hammer and listen for any dead spots later today and I'll grab some better photos at that time.
Thanks!

 

[Horigan]

If you go with a straight axle, you'll need to back the trailer deeper in the water to launch and retrieve. This could result in you backing your tow vehicle rear hubs into the water or submerge your exhaust. Things I don't like to do when I launch. In addition, you'll have to wade deeper in the water to unhook/hook the bow hook. The whole reason for a dropped axle on a boat trailer is to lower the boat.

 

[Lou C]

Exactly that's why when I realized that my 3500 axle was overloaded, I went with a 6000 2x3 4" drop axle. But it doesn't drop it 4", its less due to the need to allow clearance for the taller axle/frame.

 

[jimmwaller]

oh interesting, yeah I guess it would make thing higher and force me to back into the water more.... I already have to back up more than I'd like so I guess a drop axle is the way to go.

Question: Where are you all finding your axles? I've been looking at eastern marine (as suggested by this forum), and I'm just not seeing a huge selection. I looked at the galvanized axle section and I only see up to #3500.... I certainly don't see #6000 axles. Maybe I'm just dumb, but is there a better place to find axles and/or am I just looking in the wrong section of eastern marine or something?

 

[Lou C]

I had it made by Champion Trailers in Slidell, Louisiana. Great people & work quality. I have had 2 trailers custom made by them. Takes 3-4 weeks.

 

[redneck joe]

did you run thru my thread? Once you get into it it can be more than you think. May not be, but....just like a house once you start into it project creep happens.

 

[Lou C]

agreed! you change one thing that affects trailer height and it can affect two or three other things that have to be changed....
fenders, spring mounts etc...

 

[jheydubya]

I just recently replaced the hubs on my old boat trailer, the bearings had been neglected. Even with a damaged spindle I was able to grind it slightly with a dremel, and polish, got new hubs full assembled from Northern tool. Tons of videos on replacing on youtube. Just make sure that the tires have a very very slight bit of play once they have weight on the. Other than that its bolt and go!

 

[Lou C]

the other place where I saw ready made galvanized 5200 lb axles is trailerpartsdepot.com. It is actually a Load Rite factory axle with 70" spring centers and 87" hub face dimension IIFC. I could have used this, but I liked the options Champion gave me better, and the price was the same, just had to wait for it. They got it done on time EVEN though they got hit with a hurricane just after I ordered it!
Keep in mind none of these are cheap, figure for a good galvanized axle 5200 or 6000 lbs you are paying $425-$475 plus shipping.

I redid my trailer again instead of buying new because the cost was much less than new ($1100 vs almost 5 grand by the time I got everything I would have wanted on a new trailer) the rest of the money I'm saving for a reman engine when the time comes!

Galvanized Trailer Axle, 6,000 Lbs. Capacity, Hub Face = 87", Spring Center = 70", Tube Dimension = 2" X 3", With Drop (Load Rite # 6008.106) (DMP # 49858)

Galvanized Trailer Axle, 6,000 Lbs. Capacity, Hub Face = 87", Spring Center = 70", Tube Dimension = 2" X 3", With Drop (Load Rite # 6008.106) (DMP # 49858)

www.trailerpartsdepot.com

 

[jimmwaller]

Hi all,
The good news is that my axle seems fine. I did not see anything other than minor surface discoloration that is probably rust stains from U bolts and stuff.

The bad news is that I went over my trailer and found a few spots of rust. You can probably tell that I replaced my bunk brackets a while back as they were rusted out (not sure what they were but they sure weren't galvanized or SS). Under where the old brackets were were spots of rust. It looks like surface rust—it comes off pretty easily with steel wool and the metal seems sound. I took some videos of the two worst spots of them getting hitting with a hammer so you all could see them and hear the sound it makes.
There are six spots like this around the trailer, and these two are by far the biggest and most rusted.

Video 1:

Video 2:

So what do you think: remove the rust with some steel wool and paint over it and call it good? Or scrap this trailer and buy a new one?

Thanks