replacing Mercruiser 4.3 v6 1993 engine with Chevy s10 4.3 v6 1993

[dlogvine]

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various stages of cleanup

 

[dlogvine]

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valve piston surfaces are clean, taking the valves apart

 

[dlogvine]

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all valve pistons and Springs are removed, in storage containers, ready to be cleaned, cleaning up the head surface

 

[dlogvine]

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finished one head, the other one is done same way

 

[dlogvine]

the risers were in really poor shape, once I took of the rubber there was so much rust that parts of the riser started falling off. will get replacement risers

 

[dlogvine]

If you are in salt and want to change manifolds, go to the 'dry-joint' manifolds.

If I run the boat in fresh water only, would it be better to use the dry joint riser, or regular one would do? Would the dry joint riser also require me to buy new manifolds?

 

[dlogvine]

Got the replacement risers, they are used but in a good shape almost no rust. However left port side riser does not have three side holes for some control module which the original riser had. The question is, are these holes present, just covered with paint or should I drill the new holes and thread them? Otherwise the riser is perfectly matching the old one.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Not that I have seen ooodles of risers, but every one I have seen was drilled and tapped. If'n I was wanting to drill and tap my own holes I'd be doin so with a drill press and a depth setting. Then use a standard and then a bottoming tap.

 

[achris]

Got the replacement risers, they are used but in a good shape almost no rust. However left port side riser does not have three side holes for some control module which the original riser had. The question is, are these holes present, just covered with paint or should I drill the new holes and thread them? Otherwise the riser is perfectly matching the old one.

I'm guessing not Merc genuine then.... Port side carries the ignition module (carbed engines) or the ECU (MPI engines)..... BTW, the mounting lugs for the modules should be on both sides of both elbows. Starboard side carries the shift plate. There is no port and starboard elbow, either elbow can be used on either manifold.

Chris.........

 

[dlogvine]

Thx buddy, I was wondering if the mounting holes could have been painted over, so I can drill them openings. will make a picture of the riser, looks like there are little indents on the knobs of the riser, could be the holes underneath. will try it later today after work

 

[dlogvine]

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looks like the risers are some generic brand, did not find any brand name stamps on them. I guess I'll have to try to find some place to mount ignition module, if cannot find will drill and tap new holes.

 

[dlogvine]

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I've got ano there question about the engine block, was trying to find the year and type of the engine, found the following numbers on it, but could not find any reference on Gmail engines for this number. if anybody could help with identifying the block. the last picture has serial number

 

[achris]

Casting number 10224535

1993-’94 WITH BALANCE SHAFT: Things got more confusing with the balance shaft blocks in ’93-’94. All of these engines have to have the two extra bolt holes for the strut bosses and 10 bolt holes for the tin front cover. See photo. There are five castings that may or may not be right:
•All of the 10224534 and 10224535 blocks have the two strut bosses and 10 holes for the front cover, so they will fit everything in ’93 and ’94;

Makes it 93/94 (Gen II. Not to be confused with the Gen II drives). 10 bolt hole front cover means a tin cover :thumb:, not composite :facepalm:....

Chris.....

 

[dlogvine]

Casting number 10224535

Makes it 93/94 (Gen II. Not to be confused with the Gen II drives). 10 bolt hole front cover means a tin cover :thumb:, not composite :facepalm:....

Chris.....

Im trying to find the matching rebuild kit, they all go by the VIN and not by the casting number. Most of the 1993 kits are VIN "Z". I looked at the chevy VIN identification chart, could not find any info on my engine.

 

[achris]

Forget VIN numbers. You need a kit for a 'balance shaft 4.3, 1994 (that includes roller rockers and a roller cam, but NOT vortec heads)'. If they can't work it out from that, find another shop.

Chris......

Here is one I found with just one search. It includes a STANDARD oil pump. Do not get a high volume (or pressure) oil pump, you're not pulling enough revs to warrant it. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fem-mkp-6371a000/overview/make/chevrolet

 

[dlogvine]

Thank you, I wonder the kit you found in summit racing shop is not a marine kit. Should I look for marine kit or regular car gaskets would work? Also since the replacement engine has quite a few miles, I've been told at least 120K, I'm thinking about replacing the lifters and possibly the camshaft as well. Also I would definitely like to replace the timing chain and gears. Even so Im trying to go as low on expenses as possible, Id like to get the engine in a decent shape.

 

[achris]

Just change the head gaskets and you're done. Use the felpro marine ones.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I had to do the same thing with my V6 gaskets, just in reverse. I had a pre-balance shaft block with Vortec top end. Buying gaskets was interesting as the most common kits are either one or the other. You are stuck in the middle as well. You can always get a top end gasket set and a separate bottom end kit, which is what I had to do.

Chris - you are awesome. Your knowledge is scary precise considering you were hatched in Oz :^)

 

[achris]

...Chris - you are awesome. Your knowledge is scary precise considering you were hatched in Oz :^)

Thanks... But it's not 'considering', it's 'because'. :rofl:

 

[Rick Stephens]

Thanks... But it's not 'considering', it's 'because'. :rofl:

Must be cause yer hangin head side down, all that extry blood goin to yer head. But all the same, thanks!