Re: Replacing floor,stringers, foam...
Heres a long email I wrote up for another user, it should have a lot of information in it. In realitly poly is going to be fine for your project (ask users who have used it and not just read about epoxy), and five gallons will be close, maybe a gallon short.
Motor is pretty straight forward as pulling it out, yank the drive off it, then disconect everything and take your lags out of the mounts and the bolts off the transom plate.
For your ski locker, I would just add a couple layers of mat to the inside. Check the outside for damage.
For your gel, try some 3M Super Duty and a buffer.
Four Winns (older boats for sure, new ones are less and less) are really nice boats, in fact I would like to pick an older 241 Liberator up myself....
Email (refers to my boat project in sig):
Materials I used:
-2 sheets exterior grade 3/4" plywood
-2 sheets exterior grade 1/2" plywood
-boat load of SS screws.
-almost 2 gals of acetone
-2lb foam, 2.5 gals if I remember right...
-1 quart 3M high strength filler/bonder
For my motor mounts and rear swim deck.
-5 gals of poly resin
Coated all my wood with one real nice coat before installing. Then one during installing.
-8" wide fiberglass cloth tape (8.7oz)
Used close to 30' in my boat, all edges and seams on floor.
-1.5 oz mat (probably used a good 5 yards)
Used for first layer to install stringers
-2.0 oz mat (just under 20 yards for floor)
Used to cover floor after installing. I also laid stripes down on top of my stringers (they were not wide like yours) before installing my floor.
-18 oz roven cloth(same amount as 1.5oz)
Used to install second layer for stringers.
I also used some 40oz for my motor mounts, which was total over kill, but I work at a marine shop and I was able to anything I wanted... As far as the construction of my mounts, they are made up of 1/2 ply, 2x4, 2x6, and a piece ripped to even out the 2x4 to the 2x6, we will just say a piece that was 2x2. I will use this picture as reference: <http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/~crtufano/_0888.jpg> The 2x4 was cut for the total length making a stringer and fitted into the transom. On top of the 2x4 I placed the "2x2". Next was the piece of 1/2 ply cut to my length x 6", this was placed next to the 2x4 and 2x2 combination. Next the 2x6 was placed, sandwiching the plywood. Then to make the top of my mount I used more 1/2 plywood. This is how the originals were made, I simply copied the design. My father cut some wedges that fit the angle of the haul so that the whole bottom surface of the mounts was in contact with the haul, something the factory didn't do, and what happens when the old man gets bored and I stay at work late... I placed the mounts in with the 3M bonder, you could just thicken some resin/epoxy and achieve the same effect, but once again the old man got his hands on this part of the project and he paid the $60 for the quart! I wrapped the mounts in some glass before installing them. When installing them I used the 40oz cloth on the top and bilge sides. When it became time to install my motor, I position my motor, marked the holes, drilled them out, installed the lags, uninstalled the lags, filled each hole with resin and then reinstalled everything for the final time.
With your stringers take lots of time to measure everything, have it all fit really nice and it will make is SO much easier to install. Use the 1.5oz cloth to first glass the stringers in, then follow it up with the 18oz roven cloth. On my boat I attached some ripped pressure treated 2x to the sides of my stringers so that my screws would not "split" the 3/4" plywood stringers. I also installed my foam (2lb) before laying the floor down so that I could fill all the voids and know I wasn't putting too much in.
Be sure to get a fiberglass roller, use a chip brush (cant have enough of those...) just to "paint" the surface that you are going to glass, lay your glass and then "plop" the resin on to the cloth with the brush. Use the roller to saturate the glass and work it smooth. You will see the glass go from white to "clear" when its saturated and laid down.
The key to fiberglassing is not really if you use epoxy or resin, just your prep work. My project took 8 weeks, and I only glassed the last week. Grind EVERYTHING so that its nice and clean and you have something nice to work with. I pretty much grinded the WHOLE haul of my boat. This is VERY messy and you will want to do it outside, or your garage will be white. Make sure you have a GOOD mask and some specs on. A tyvek suit, or talc powder (like at the barbers) will do wonders at saving your skin from scratching. Remember COLD SHOWERS! Clean everything with acetone. Make sure your haul is supported in such a way so that it doesn't become "un-true" or not straight.
I hope I got pretty much everything, I apologize for my english, I really missed out on that department in school, but hey I made up for it in math! If you have anymore questions feel free to ask, its almost like working on stuff for me and I go crazy at school not working on anything...
Good luck!
-Cory
ps; I would suggest using the "edit" (right hand side, drop down menu) feature instead of making multiple replys.
