Replacing deck on old boat

claparl1990

Recruit
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
4
So i just bought a 1985 Bayliner, huge mistake, but looking to fix it anyway. I have to replace the deck due to whole deck being rotted. I would like to tackle this project myself and I need some help on how i should go about it. All i have done so far is rip majority of the floor up, but i still have to get the seats out to rip up the flooring underneath that is rotted also. From there, i need help. I already have marine plywood, from there i don't know where to go now or what i need to get the flooring solid and safe. epoxy? fiberglass? what do I need? I am pretty handy with things like this, but i am new to the boating scene. Any help i can get would be great. Thanks
 

crabby captain john

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Messages
1,823
Re: Replacing deck on old boat

Boats nearly ALWAYS rot from the bottom up. If the floor is bad odds are 100 to 1 the stringers are too. I'd be concerned the transom is rotted too. Before replacing anything those items must be verified solid or replaced or you simply waste time and money. Are the seats on pedestals? Pictures would help.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,258
Re: Replacing deck on old boat

Start reading here:
How To's and Other Great Information


Lots of good info in there ^^^

Pix of what you're working on always help. You can't post too many pix, esp during demo (helps w/ put back). There's a posting pix link in Don's how to thread. Use photobucket, it makes the pix large & IN your post instead of attachments that have to be opened.

I shot pix w/ my tape visible, so it be easy to reference at put back:
Gunnel.jpg


Pix help answer questions so you don't have to. Crabby might have been able to see the seats, and post up a tip or 2 to help w/ their removal, instead of asking if they're pedestals instead of fold out, back to back loungers (I suspect loungers).

An Inboard/Outboard (I/O) w/ fairly large hole cut thru the transom for the outdrive, or an outboard (OB) that hangs off the back? An OB is easy to remove, but may require removing some portion or all of the cap from boat to access the transom plywood. An I/O is somewhat more difficult to physically remove from the boat, but you don't have to pull the cap to replace the transom plywood.

Marine plywood isn't necessary, but if your budget allows it & it's readily available, it's a good choice for all the wood components of your boat: Stringers, deck, transom, interior upholstery backers, seat bases (for loungers) & etc.

But a 'good' grade of exterior plywood is also a good choice: Arauco, MDO, & ACX are also good choices.

Your boat is made out of polyester resin, poly resin would be a good choice for all the work you need to do. Vinylester is also a good choice, but does cost more. Again if your budget allows it's use, and it's available, it can be used. It does have better bonding to old fiberglass then the poly does, and is a better water barrier. Epoxy can also be used, has better still bonding & is an even better water barrier then the vinylester. All three are good choices, and each has pro's & cons to their use. All 3 will also lead to conditions similar to what you now find if left unprotected from the elements when not in use, stored w/ the bow high & the drain plug out, and not properly maintained.

But these choices are all a ways off, lets start w/ some pix & get you headed in the right directions w/ demo. While doing that, read thru a few resto threads, lots of good info in them....

You may need to consider building a cradle to adequately support the hull thru put back. You will likely be removing a great deal of it's support structure while you're doing the demo. Again, you'll see that mentioned in most of the resto threads.


Welcome to the iboats dry dock
 
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