Replacing corroded trailer crossmember

beernutzbob

Recruit
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
2
I have a year 2000 ez loader trailer which I believe is a model TEZ 17-20/22'. The bottom of the forward-most crossmember piece has corroded and the crossmember as well as numerous nuts/bolts needs to be replaced. I have ordered the replacement crossmember from ez loader's online catalog: http://estore.ezloader.com/product.asp?0=210&1=246&3=2648

I plan on putting the boat in the water then working on the trailer to replace the crossmember but I've never tried something like this before. Does replacing a crossmember just involve removing the support bolts and the bolts connecting the crossmember to the bunk, then removing the crossmember and replacing it with the new one?

Also what is a good method for quickly removing old, corroded nuts and bolts? Is there a cutting tool that is recommended? I have used my Dremel and a special metal-cutting disc previously for this but it took quite a while per bolt and I'd like to remove the bolts as quickly as I can.

Here are some pictures of what I'm dealing with. Any advice is much appreciated.

http://img703.imageshack.us/g/img0785j.jpg/
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Re: Replacing corroded trailer crossmember

Welcome to iboats!:cool:

I think you've got the replacement procedure pretty much figured out. Regarding removing corroded hardware, a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade will make quick work of the job. You just want to be careful not to make contact with the frame- that will scrape off the galvanizing. You can touch up any such spots with cold galvanizing spray. You'll also want to use the spray after you wire-brush the rust from around the bolt holes.
 

beernutzbob

Recruit
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
2
Re: Replacing corroded trailer crossmember

Welcome to iboats!:cool:

I think you've got the replacement procedure pretty much figured out. Regarding removing corroded hardware, a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade will make quick work of the job. You just want to be careful not to make contact with the frame- that will scrape off the galvanizing. You can touch up any such spots with cold galvanizing spray. You'll also want to use the spray after you wire-brush the rust from around the bolt holes.

Thanks for the welcome Bob. I've been a forum lurker for a while but I decided this job needed more expertise.

Thanks also for the heads up on the saw and the cold galvanizing spray. I had not thought of that.
 
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