Replacement long block

[Drivewayboater2]

Hoping to get some information regarding what else I need to take off ( and reuse) from the old 5.0 and transfer to the new( reman) long block. Here’s the list of what Ive currently done.
removed, inspected, cleaned, painted and rebuilt:
carb
intake manifold
distributor
risers
power steering pump
valve covers
spark arrestor
thermostat housing
fuel pump
went through wiring harness- cleaned and inspected all wires and connections
I will replace the water pump

I assume the starter works but haven’t removed or bench tested it. Still on old block.
I also assume that the entire bell housing that connects to the block to the outdrive will be reused. That still needs to come off old block as well. What other items ( if serviceable) can/should be transfered? Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Flywheel, accessories and accessory, rotating electrics

If your replacement long block isn't marine specific. You need brass core plugs, marine head gaskets, marine oil pan and marine dipstick

 

[dubs283]

If you're sending the block out pull everything off including the tin

Getting a new block shipped to you, just swap what you need from the old to make the new same as old

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Gotcha… thank you both! I’ll be getting a new marine long block. The old block is nothing more than a heavy anchor.
I did remove the alternator as… and all mounting brackets.

 

[NHGuy]

I'd seriously consider replacing exhaust manifolds and risers. ie. don't reuse them unless you first verify they are nearly new. Manifolds can be tested by blocking their water passages and pressurizing their water inlets. Leaks into the exhaust are fails.
I imagine there's a way to check risers. I'd probably make up a sealing block for the manifold interface with the cooling passages drilled out. Then make a round plug for the big rubber hose, with a valve port in it. Pressurize the exhaust side and see if it leaks into the cooling side.
By the way. If you get some studs for the front of the heads it's a far easier way to mount the alternator/power steer assembly. Best $10 I ever spent. Studs help for many block mounted things. And they leave spots to hang things from too.
I have an electric fuel pump and studding for that was a major time saver.
I'd recommend not concerning yourself with head gasket material. Run what arrives on the engine. There are no actual marine head gaskets, if you are specifying gaskets, sure, get composite, coated or stainless. But changing head gaskets on a new engine is unneeded.

 

[Lou C]

If this boat is raw water cooled you want marine head gaskets even in fresh water. Do it once & right. Fel/Pro makes nice gaskets

 

[flashback]

I would study your engine room and imagine having to work on the motor. Any components that are impossible to get to I would replace with new. Fuel pump or starter in my case..

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would seriously consider a heat exchanger with a new long block and moving to fresh water cooled

 

[kenny nunez]

You never stated what year your engine is. Is it an Alpha platform? Before you do any ordering is your engine‘s flywheel 14” or 12 3/4”. one way to tell is how your starter is mounted. Are the bolts straight which means the smaller flywheel or staggered which means the 14” flywheel. They both have a different flywheel and drive coupling bolt patterns and require different flywheel housings. The new engine will need an electric fuel pump.
Marine Power in Pontchoula, La. They have new marine grade long and short blocks.

 

[dubs283]

Marine Power in Pontchoula, La. They have new marine grade long and short blocks.

Good support, too