Replace points with cd 1976 Evinrude 35

racerone

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Finding a blown up 77 model with all the parts would be the way to go.
 

racerone

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You need a flywheel ( $727 for a new one ) / stator / powerpack / coils / hardware.------Likely too much in beer tokens to buy that new.---A 77 or newer model is the ticket.----Often can find a parts motor for $200 or less.----Depends on your location.
 
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Rootguitars

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Well thanks, I guess I’ll just try a new driver coil to see if that will produce a decent spark. Thank you for your input, you guys help a lot and it’s appreciated
 

Rootguitars

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I have tested it. It apparently is the driver coil for a pull start, not the electric start . It measured 1.8 ohms not the 2.7 +/-.7 ohms. The ignition coils test out to spec and all the wiring has been tested for continuity and the grounds are all good as well. But a very weak spark with a gauge set at 3/8” and no spark when set to 7/16”. Thanks again for all your help.
 
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racerone

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----The spark jump of 7/16" is for electronic ignition model of 1977 and newer.----What is your motor doing / not doing ?----What trouble shooting has been done ?
 

Rootguitars

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Crowley Marine lists two driver coils, one fore rope start and one for electric. When starting it will backfire through the exhaust and if it starts will miss quite a bit both at idle and at higher speed. When it gets warmed up, it will start right away without backfire but will still run roughly. I’ve tried everything I could think of with this engine including new points new ignition coils, new wiring from mag plate to the coils and to the ignition switch and a carb rebuild. Also new reed valves. After all the different changes it still starts with backfire and runs exactly the same way.
 

racerone

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I would say it is a carburetion issue.-----Open low speed mixture 1/4 turn and test run.----And most important make sure throttle plate is synchronized and opening at the correct time.----Many years of this ignition system show the same driver coil for manual and electric start.
 

Rootguitars

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I would say it is a carburetion issue.-----Open low speed mixture 1/4 turn and test run.----And most important make sure throttle plate is synchronized and opening at the correct time.----Many years of this ignition system show the same driver coil for manual and electric start.
Thanks again. I very much appreciate your help
 

racerone

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I think it is the classic " lean sneeze "-----On these 2 stroke engines.----A much mis-understood / mis diagnosed occurrance on them.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Well I admit I don’t understand it. So…what to do to correct it?
I do see the two coil part numbers based on the pull start and electric start. Did you buy the right one?

Next up, carb sinked up right with the ignition? Not sure how to do that motor but the timing should advance before the carb opens up.

Here is a video of someone who thinks it's the top crank seal. Does your motor sound like this? It's a 25 but should be the same as your 25.

 

racerone

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Not sure if I would let that fellow work on one of my motors.----Just a lot of guessing on his part.
 

Rootguitars

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No , ive seen this video and that’s not what mine sounds like. The top seal on my engine is good. I’ve checked it a couple of ways. I will keep trying to adjust the low speed screw and see if I can dial it in. I really appreciate your knowledge and your willingness to share it
 

saltchuckmatt

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Not sure if I would let that fellow work on one of my motors.----Just a lot of guessing on his part.
Here is the follow up video....mystery solved but it was something else. Anyhow might show the OP how to dial in the carb....if that is the problem.

 
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