Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

[Darren Nemeth]

Next year my boat will be finished and I want to do the re-wiring myself.

Its a 41 year old 14 foot runabout. What is left to the electrical is a mess so I may as well start from scratch.

I want to learn all the basics, how to properly wire in stuff like lights, ignition and radio but rather not do it from the internet. I feel I'm better off with a good "Boat Wiring For Dummies" type book or a real good instructional DVD.

Are there any you like and can recommend?

I know nothing about marine electrical.

Also, am I good with a 12 volt battery or do I need higher voltage?

 

[kmarine]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

I suggest getting the harness from the factory of your engine. there are universal color codes which should be followed and you must use marine approved wire if you ever need an insurance survey. The diagram included with the harness will need to be followed. I am not familure with a specific book, most service manuals include wiring schmatics.

 

[Sixmark]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

An engine wiring harness will only provide the wiring for the engine as a stand alone unit, it does not provide for other equipment onboard.

Your best plan of attack is to have a plan, write down on paper all of the electrical items that you plan on having installed in the boat before you even start.

You also need to have an idea of what kind of controls you are using, and how you want things to operate on the boat, i.e. do you want the accessories to shut of when you turn the key off.

Once you have figured out how you want things to suit your needs, then you can proceed.

I strongly recommend color coding the wiring to make it much easier for diagnosis of any problems that may arise in the future.

You also want to know how much of a load will be on each circuit that you will be wiring in the boat, this way you will know what type of wire will be needed.......overloading wiring leads to heat which leads to melting of the insulation and possibly fires

A good little handbook for you to pick up would be Ugly's Reference Handbook, it will give you many useful formulas for figuring out loads, wire size, fuse/breaker requirements, etc.

This may all seem a little overwhelming, but if you want to do it yourself, then it is best to do it right the first time and learn while you do it, so you will be able to work on it later.

You can find the Ugly's electrical handbook @ www.uglys.net best thing is that you can use it for things around the home, car, boat, etc.

 

[fish_on_the_deck]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

interesting boat...

I've used this one, which I liked:
http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Il...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1289827923&sr=1-1

Alos, this one is good:
http://www.amazon.com/Powerboaters-...r_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1289828344&sr=1-11

No personal experiance, but I've heard many say they like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/12-Volt-Bible...=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1289827923&sr=1-2

It's all pretty simple except maybe the switch panel wiring... i'd recomend a pre-wired model... I used these guys and it came out great! :
http://shop.newwiremarine.com/Custom-Switch-Panels_c3.htm

Any of the three books will prabably get you off to a good start. I comend you for getting "learned up" before you jump into the rewire... it quickly turn messy and dangerous if you dont.

 

[docrodg]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

I highly recommend "The Boatowners Illustrated Electrical Handbook". It has explanations of all the major systems, Troubleshooting, standards, etc. in it. ISBN is 0-07-144644-3

 

[Darren Nemeth]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

I highly recommend "The Boatowners Illustrated Electrical Handbook". It has explanations of all the major systems, Troubleshooting, standards, etc. in it. ISBN is 0-07-144644-3

Thanks for the help.

I just ordered "The 12-Volt Bible for Boats" since I know absolutely nothing about wiring boats and need something at grade school level.

"The Boatowners Illustrated Electrical Handbook" looks great. Will see if the library has it.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

For wiring..I can say ...

1. wire without a break in it is the best.
2. Liquid electric tape and heat shrink tube it for connections.
3. Watch drip lines with connection points...

Soldering is good too for lugs and perm wires..

YD.

PS. The web is full of good wire connections.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

For wiring..I can say ...

1. wire without a break in it is the best.
2. Liquid electric tape and heat shrink tube it for connections.
3. Watch drip lines with connection points...

Soldering is good too for lugs and perm wires..

YD.

PS. The web is full of good wire connections.

YD,

Soldering will not meet Coast Guard Regs. Must be a "mechanical" connection such as crimp connectors. You can solder after if you like, but solder alone will fail inspection.

And NEVER, EVER solder a lug. They are made of special copper and must be crimped using special machines that produce a solid fused lug end. Again, solder will fail inspection, plus it is a classic location for heat that will soften or melt solder causing complete loss of connection. Hence the special copper lugs.

Please stop telling members to solder connections on their boats.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

YD,

Soldering will not meet Coast Guard Regs. Must be a "mechanical" connection such as crimp connectors. You can solder after if you like, but solder alone will fail inspection.

And NEVER, EVER solder a lug. They are made of special copper and must be crimped using special machines that produce a solid fused lug end. Again, solder will fail inspection, plus it is a classic location for heat that will soften or melt solder causing complete loss of connection. Hence the special copper lugs.

Please stop telling members to solder connections on their boats.

Thanks,

Mark

Never heard of wires gettin so hot that they melt the sods m8..

I kinda sorta was thinking on line of what they do on Navy boats.. solder/liquid tape/shrink tube it..

I could be wrong....

YD.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

Never heard of wires gettin so hot that they melt the sods m8..

I kinda sorta was thinking on line of what they do on Navy boats.. solder/liquid tape/shrink tube it..

I could be wrong....

YD.

This used to be a hot topic here years ago. Solder vs Crimp. I had a link saved to the specific reg. But just now I went to do a C&P from the link, but the link no longer works. Seems the USCG redid their entire website, and now I don't have the link. I also see that they have redone the entire "boat builders handbook". Might find a reference in there.

There are exemptions for the solder rule, such as electronics, but for the most part, all conductors should be crimped.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

12V Bible is good

This post is a scant primer.... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=186986

Just make sure you start with marine grade tinned wire. It is cheaper to buy a roll however........ you will have to tag and identify everything .......... using a different colors for every wire will break the bank.

Marine grade switches and marine grade wire....... marine breaker's and fuse blocks too........ sorry but if you skimp here it could cause future problems.

As far as solder vs crimp....... crimp is the method since soldered will create a hard spot and could lead to a break in the wire from movement

 

[mark1961]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

And NEVER, EVER solder a lug. They are made of special copper and must be crimped using special machines that produce a solid fused lug end. Again, solder will fail inspection, plus it is a classic location for heat that will soften or melt solder causing complete loss of connection. Hence the special copper lugs.

Just curious if this was the case back in 1982? My 82 Evinrude has soldered battery lugs which appear to be original. I havent checked if they are crimped as well but it is possible my motor was manufactured here as there used to be an OMC facility/factory in Sydney. Maybe our regs were different back then?

 

[docrodg]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

This used to be a hot topic here years ago. Solder vs Crimp. I had a link saved to the specific reg. But just now I went to do a C&P from the link, but the link no longer works. Seems the USCG redid their entire website, and now I don't have the link. I also see that they have redone the entire "boat builders handbook". Might find a reference in there.

There are exemptions for the solder rule, such as electronics, but for the most part, all conductors should be crimped.

HEre is the standard the USCG uses: ABYC E-11. Excerpt for connections:

11.14.5.7
Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the
conductor.
NOTE: When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint unless adequate additional support is provided.

11.14.5.8
Solderless crimp on connectors shall be attached with the type of crimping tools designed for the connector used, and that will produce a connection meeting the requirements of E-11.14.5.3.

11.14.5.9
The shanks of terminals shall be protected against accidental shorting by the use of insulation barriers or sleeves, except for those used in grounding systems.


So... no solder-only joints, only in conjunction with crimp connectors and then some sort of support of the connection is required to prevent movement. Except battery lugs, which may be a solder connection in the lug.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

For wiring..I can say ...

1. wire without a break in it is the best.
2. Liquid electric tape and heat shrink tube it for connections.
3. Watch drip lines with connection points...

Soldering is good too for lugs and perm wires..

YD.

PS. The web is full of good wire connections.

Lets just regroup here.. I didnt mean to cause a ruckess..but lets go through the steps..( With Crayon I guess )..

1. Wire without a break in it is best. ( One solid wire from point A to point B WITHOUT a butt connector etc. ). Does this sound ok to you guys ?

2. Liquid electric tape and heat shrink tube it for connections. ( I should have said end Connectors eh ? Blade or U's or holes ? .. does not matter still #2 applies for those connections ( of Cource they are crimp connectors ).

3.Watch drip lines with connection points... ( If you had to butt connect you would not have that connection at the lowest point in your Loom or hanger ) thought I got that one right..

"Soldering is good too for lugs and perm wires.." ( I didnt mean NOT to crimp the lugs before soldering ). The other "perm" wires are Permanant wires to solder ( like mast lights..or running light connections where there is No movement .. your just screwing them on to your light..or speaker..or even your Buss bar. I dont see any movement in the ends of any connection can be a problem ).

I might not be explaining myself here correctly in my think/typing..

So Again..

One wire..2 ends .. Seal the ends... some require crimp and solder..some should be solder and crimp and yet some of you 3m buffs out there know there is a crimp and shrink ( gel butt connectors )...

Please dont flame me .. I still dont know if we are on the same page of solder/crimp thing..

Peace..

YD.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

Regarding the battery lugs, the only lugs I am familiar with are the crimp/compression lugs. They are made of a soft copper and when used with the proper compression tool, fuses with the cable resulting in a solid single end lug. It is so tight that there is no place for solder to flow.

I guess the old style hard lug is still available and soldering, according to the specs listed above, is allowed. So I stand corrected. Solder is OK on the right type of lug.

 

[docrodg]

Re: Recommendations on books & DVDs showing how to electrically wire a boat?

Lets just regroup here.. I didnt mean to cause a ruckess..but lets go through the steps..( With Crayon I guess )..

1. Wire without a break in it is best. ( One solid wire from point A to point B WITHOUT a butt connector etc. ). Does this sound ok to you guys ?

2. Liquid electric tape and heat shrink tube it for connections. ( I should have said end Connectors eh ? Blade or U's or holes ? .. does not matter still #2 applies for those connections ( of Cource they are crimp connectors ).

3.Watch drip lines with connection points... ( If you had to butt connect you would not have that connection at the lowest point in your Loom or hanger ) thought I got that one right..

"Soldering is good too for lugs and perm wires.." ( I didnt mean NOT to crimp the lugs before soldering ). The other "perm" wires are Permanant wires to solder ( like mast lights..or running light connections where there is No movement .. your just screwing them on to your light..or speaker..or even your Buss bar. I dont see any movement in the ends of any connection can be a problem ).

I might not be explaining myself here correctly in my think/typing..

So Again..

One wire..2 ends .. Seal the ends... some require crimp and solder..some should be solder and crimp and yet some of you 3m buffs out there know there is a crimp and shrink ( gel butt connectors )...

Please dont flame me .. I still dont know if we are on the same page of solder/crimp thing..

Peace..

YD.

1. Yes!!!! The fewer the joints in the wire the less chance of failure. Leave wire a little long in case of damage needing repair (say 3 inches).

2. Yes, although heat shrink is better IMHO. Blades must have ends that curl up to prevent a loosened screw from letting the connector come off. Ring connectors are best and to be preferred.

3. Absolutely. Wire will corrode at the connector if the sealing is bad. Drip loop is insurance.

On the solder... there is always vibration from the boat in general. The problem with the solder is that it makes the wire inflexible and can cause the strands to break where the solder ends and the strand becomes bare copper. That is why the standard requires support of the area. If you really want to solder then you would need to provide a stiff support for the wire, like a little piece of stiff plastic heatshrunk to the wire (E-tape would just dry and come off) going a little bit past where the solder ends. The solder tho does not really provide any further benefit to a good crimp connection, proven from years of testing by companies. A major manufacturer of marine products I inspected repeatedly did not use any solder as it would fail inspection on a job that was to be Lloyds certified due to the weakness in the wire - and that was on a non-moving connection.

To show the problem with the wire from soldering just take a piece and solder the end, then bend it back and forth - the strands will begin to break pretty quickly. Vibration is movement, and can be pretty violent movement at times. When you solder the crimp connector some solder wicks into the wire under the insulation and causes there to be a point that is lass resistant to movement. In addition, there is no change in the resistance of the connection between just crimping and crimping and soldering... at least not enough that you would ever really be able to tell (milliohms of resistance in difference). Even NASA does not use solder on crimp connectors in satellites.