Rebuild or new starter?

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brian4321

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So the solenoid on my 2000 mercruiser 5.0 starter is going out, it will click several times before cranking. A new starter is around $220 and I can have it rebuilt for between $95 and $125 . Would I be better off just spending the money on a new one ,or just have this one rebuilt? I've never had a marine starter rebuilt, and didn't know if it's advisable or not.
 

gm280

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If your starter isn't cooked, I would go the rebuild route. There really isn't much to them. Some bearings and a couple brushes, maybe a new commutator and it is working perfectly again. JMHO
 

brian4321

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Thanks for the advice. I just wasn't sure, with it being a marine starter, if it's ok to have it rebuilt or if I'd be better off with a new one
 

alldodge

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So the solenoid on my 2000 mercruiser 5.0 starter is going out, it will click several times before cranking. A new starter is around $220 and I can have it rebuilt for between $95 and $125 . Would I be better off just spending the money on a new one ,or just have this one rebuilt? I've never had a marine starter rebuilt, and didn't know if it's advisable or not.

Clicks several times before it engages and starts, my first thought is a bad connection. Could also be the slave solenoid.

If it is the starter, I would buy a new one. I use to be a fan of rebuild over new, but changed my mind over the years. most places that rebuild starts, alts and other items, have no way to actually load test the unit. Have had one caterpillar and one marine starter rebuilt, along with other things, and both didn't last. Maybe it was the place that did the work, but my guess is no.

If you rebuild the starter, and it cranks over the motor, all is good, but maybe it doesn't quit turn it over as fast as it should. maybe this is caused by some burnt winds, maybe not. In any case, if you buy new, there will be no issue later.

just my opinion, others will differ
 

dingbat

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Unless you can have it professionally built, as in someone who rebuilds electric motors for a living, but new.

The armature should be tested before doing anything and you need a growler to test it correctly. Had I known the armature was bad (no shorts when tested with VM) it would have saved me the cost of a rebuild kit and the 12 pack it cost me for the guy in the next bay over to test the armature correctly
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,...... Donno whether ya got an ole style starter, or 1 of the little permanent magnet starters,....
But,...
Once ya go to a PM starter, you'll never use an ole style starter again,.....
Waayyy lighter, 'n more powerful,....
 

Scott Danforth

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there are a few rebuilders that I trust, and they are extremely busy. however for what it would cost me to ship a starter or alternator 1500 miles to them, I can buy new

the clicking several times before it starts could be carbon arc deposits in the starter, or it could be a bad connection somewhere
 

brian4321

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I'm almost certain it's the starter, the connections are all clean and tight. Bondo , it is the old style starter , I will check out the permanent magnet ones. If I were to have it rebuilt, the only local place I know of is battery specialists. I'm kinda leaning towards just buying new
 

alldodge

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Bondo's right on about the PM starts. Just replaced the one in my cruiser, and it sure spins the motor fast now. The old starter was working, but due to the rebuild just need more torque
 

CamaroMan

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There are some tests you can do but the best one is to run a manual start wire to starter, then run the thick red also straight to the starter and thick earth to the mounting bolt (make it all SHINY and grease with permatex die elec grease) - and touch the switch (thin wire) straight onto the batt and see how she runs then.

I bought a new pmgr type started for $45 bucks marine rated and it works perfectly.. The tech on these things is so similar - what are the hours on yours? It might also be the brushes that have over heated from someone laying on the starter waaay too long -

I had a brand new original Bosch starter for my diesel truck that was running REALLY bad, the brushes were brand new so reinstalled them, same issue - removed it again and I saw the brush wires were blue/purple from heat. Put in a new set and it swings like a wild cat now.

Not sure what condition yours is in but your could try putting in new brushes and cleaning the armature with 1200 grit sand paper.. The cheap ones work very well IMO - yes even the cheap marine rated ones.

just my .02
good luck
 

brian4321

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Thanks alldodge I'll check that out. Fishrdan if I understand right , it wouldn't crank at all if it was the slave solenoid, and in my case it still cranks after a few clicks
 

fishrdan

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Nope, the slave solenoid can be "failing", and still turn over the engine after a couple of clicks. I had 2 failing solenoids that did this exact same thing, click-click-clik-click-crank.

If you jumper around the solenoid (big terminals) the starter should turn over without issue, if it's good. I have done this in a pinch with a pair of pliers. Got me back to the dock when the solenoid carped out.
 

brian4321

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Nope, the slave solenoid can be "failing", and still turn over the engine after a couple of clicks. I had 2 failing solenoids that did this exact same thing, click-click-clik-click-crank.

If you jumper around the solenoid (big terminals) the starter should turn over without issue, if it's good. I have done this in a pinch with a pair of pliers. Got me back to the dock when the solenoid carped out.

I will definitely check that out before I order. I was on the understanding a slave solenoid either works or doesn't, which is why I haven't tested it. Thanks
 

stonyloam

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Dan is correct, it could be the slave that you hear clicking, and when it does make contact the starter solenoid activates and the starter runs. Try to isolate the problem by opening the motor cover and have someone hit the switch, you should be able to tell which is clicking. If only the slave clicks, it is the problem, if both click, it is the starter.
 
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