Rebuild not starting

[Geoff_Jubb]

Hi guys
Sorry but I have another question...
I have recently overhauled my Fisherman 6hp (I think its a '68, but no serial number). I have just finished and when I have come to start it it will not start.
I have checked for spark by putting a screwdriver in the boot and holding the shaft against the engine, but I cannot see anything. How visible is the spark?
I have as part of the overhaul changed everything on the stator plate. I used Dielectric Grease on the plug conections to the coils. One mistake I made was to use molybendum grease on the crankshaft which then rubbed onto the cotact points but I have since cleaned it all off.
Can anyone help me, is there tests I can do to try and work out what it is? Don't worry about patronising me, I know NOTHING!
Cheers,
Geoff

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Rebuild not starting

OK, time to check your work.

Are both point sets gapped to .020 with the points rub block aligned with the crank shaft key?
Are the coils properly mounted flush with the mounting bosses at their base (where they touch the armature plate).
Is the flywheel key installed and not sheared?
Are you using solid wire core plug wires?

BTW: Describe "recently overhauled"...what did you do?

 

[Geoff_Jubb]

Re: Rebuild not starting

Are both point sets gapped to .020 with the points rub block aligned with the crank shaft key?
Yes.
Are the coils properly mounted flush with the mounting bosses at their base (where they touch the armature plate).
Yes, but even though I aligned them, there is possible evidence of rubbing?
Is the flywheel key installed and not sheared?
Is this the flat piece that sticks out to align the fly wheel? If so this is ok.
Are you using solid wire core plug wires?
The ones that came with the kit are multistrand core, is this ok?

BTW: Describe "recently overhauled"...what did you do?
I used a kit from a guy called the master tech. I changed the plugs, everything on the stator plate, the spark plug wires and boots, the main gasket, the water pump, and most of the carb. This is the first time I have ever done anything with an engine.
Thanks for taking the time Xcusme,
Geoff

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Rebuild not starting

Ah, good old Bill Kelly(Mastertech).

An inline spark tester is a much better method to ensure you are getting proper spark, available at any auto parts store for like 10 bucks. Your spark should jump a 1/2 inch gap with a bright blue ZAP!!



Have you checked the compression? If compression and spark is good, you have a fuel delivery problem. Will spraying pre mixed fuel into the carb throat cause it to fire? If so troubleshoot the fuel system or your starting procedure. BTW, what is it?

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Rebuild not starting

I'm concerned that you may not have cleaned all of the grease off the points. It takes only the tiniest film of grease on the points to make them completely nonfunctional.

But, before you take the step to get at those points, is the lanyard on the kill button? I've seen it so many times that someone has forgotten the safety lanyard, then pulled and pulled and pulled. Check the wiring there, too.

If you still aren't getting spark, then it's time to get at the points again. Use shellac thinner (alcohol) on them, then finish up with strips of ordinary typing paper, drawn dry through the points while they are closed. Do that several times. The slighly abrasive and absorbent paper will suck off any remaing grease film. Check around the points, too, to make sure no more grease can wander onto the points.

While you're looking at the points, check all the wiring, including the wires that go to the kill button. If they're worn or frayed or crunched, that can short them and kill your spark. Make sure you've installed all wiring exactly as described in your instructions.

I'm betting one of those things will take care of your lack of spark.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Rebuild not starting

I have a 1973 Evinrude 6HP Fisherman motor and it does NOT have a kill lanyard or kill switch that I can locate in either the parts catalog or service manual. Factory service manual Figs. 4-1C and 4-1D show a "shorting switch" to the breaker points, but it has been a long time since I had my flywheel off and I just cannot remember where it is. My point being, your ignition system may be grounded and until that is resolved, you will not get a spark. FYI, the service manual Trouble Check Chart also lists the following possible causes: 1) Linkage improperly adjusted (which may be related to the shorting switch), 2) Inverted breaker cam and 3) Spark plug leads crossed or reversed. I'm no expert like many others on this forum, but my experience with these motors tells me it is usually something simple. Good luck!

 

[Geoff_Jubb]

Re: Rebuild not starting

What. An. Idiot. After bothering you all for information, I was sat here pulling my hair out, reading and rereading the instructions I had followed. I stripped the stator about 10 times and rebuilt it. Finally I gave up and sat looking at the instructions I had been using.
Eventually I realised the part I was spacing 0.20 was the wrong bit, the fibre type part of the cam shaft, instead of the actual points. Because this is the first engine I've worked on I don't even know what some of the terms mean, hence I spent a day spacing the wrong part.
It was only when I thought about how the engine would spark I realised (I guarantee I'll not make THIS mistake again!!!).
Anyway, I have ran out and changed it and the engine is now sparking, but not starting. It is 10pm here though so I didn't try too hard (don't want to upset the neighbours) I will try again in the morning, but at worst I've got it down to a carb(?) problem.
Sorry for wasting your time and thanks for all the help!
Geoff

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Rebuild not starting

Glad I've never done that OR something else like it! LOL That's the way we all learn. Good deal. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Rebuild not starting

Eventually I realised the part I was spacing 0.20 was the wrong bit, the fibre type part of the cam shaft, instead of the actual points.

It"s .020 gap on the points , not 0.20. Perhaps just a typo, but a big difference just the same!