Re: Really odd problem with t-stat/cooling system
Buying used often means:
Replacing every fluid and filter.
Replacing pump/housing/kit/impeller
Replacing manis/risers/elbows (or removing and inspecting them and replacing gaskets)
Then it means performance checks, if they were not done at pre-purchase.
WOT and RPM top speed should be noted.
Engine temp (the cold, the warm and the hot).
Cold: MUST have a t-stat to warm up and remain at op temp -- usually 160 plus.
Warm: Must remain warm when using... usually 160 to 175, or just a hair more
Hot:. If she gets hot, you need to inspect the entire cooling system. Hoses comg in from drive can narrow as corrosion crushes them down. Now, by removing a t-stat these narrowed hoses can be offset (believe it or not). It has to do with how fast/hard the sucking is with the t-stat out (usually lower,). This can help keep the incoming water, which is running thru narrow tube(s), from getting vaporized (which reduces cooling capacity). With the t-stat in, the sucking is more even/strong, and incoming water can vaporize, creating bubbles. Eventually, even having the t-stat out won't help.
Make sure the incoming water is bubble free. Do that with the t-stat in! Otherwise, test might not be valid.
Running w/out a t-stat = big engine wear. Metals aren't matching up, and fuel/air ratios aren't great for long-term health of engine. Very bad news.