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I need to reseal my rub rail (i believe that is what it is called) was thinking about using 3m 5200. is this a good idea or should i used something else.
do you know where i can purchase a large tube of the 4200? i found the large tube of 5200 at Gander Mountain but all they had of the 4200 was small tubes.
Don't seal the rub rail, take the rub rail off and seal the joint between the top cap and the hull. Then put the rub rail back on. This is also an above waterline sealing job. I would and did just get some silicone from the hardware store to do it. This is one place where regular silicone is fine in my opinion. Never below waterline, but on the rub rail its fine.
If your rub rail is in good solid shape than recalking it will be okay. I am not a fan of using sillycone on a boat at all. BUT in this case you could use it here.
Sillycone - good
Marine silicone calk (i.e Boatlife, etc.) - more gooder
3M 4200 (UV) - most goodest
On my boat the rub rail is in a track and can move as needed, from heat or whatever. Do not understand why you would want to seal it unless there is something I am missing. Beneath it yes.
I assumed alltrottle was talking about where the aluminum and/or rubber piece is screwed/riveted to the hull/cap joint. I agree the rub rail insert would be inside that piece and not to caulk that part.
IMHO.. caulking the underside of ANY attatched rubrail is a bad choice.
It will only collect water without drainage..however looks nice on those Yachts.
Hull/Deck joint.. aye.. clean and caulk the bejesus out of if after you spread it open with a large X .
YD.
PS. 5200= below waterline "through hull fittings" ( dont expect to remove these things without some tearing of fiberglass if done right ).
PS. 4200= Some fittings.. ( not below waterline ) and of course not on teak ( or other wood bonds ). .. Still be carefull of where you put this as where it can still be tenatous..
PS. 4000 for other numerous/removable things ..if you want things.."removable" without damage sometime in the future..
OK i am new to the Boat world, could you explain IMHO. TO answer the question above, there is a black rubber rail that goes all the way around my 91 Aeris F/S. it currently has sylicone underneath it. is some parts is has comes loose and you can pull it down. It just figure it was time to clean it all off and put new sylicone on.
IMHO In My Humble Opinion
I stongly disagree with Borchick. Most boats top caps are NOT glued together. They are only attached with the rubrail and screws and rivets and the rubber insert is used to conceal them. SOME manufacturers MAY use some tabs or some glue at intervals but very seldom is the top cap entirely glued to the hull. That would make it very difficult to separate the two for repairs.
That or there are several reasons that could account for not sealing the hull/deck joint. However having some kind of non-permanant seal should be used.
YD.
PS. on some gofast powerhulls they Glass the hull/deck joint.
I am in the process of finishing a transom and deck replacement on mine and I was going to just go around the inside with some silicone. It had some type of sealant before that was hard and brittle and it didnt take much to get the cap off after the rub rail was removed. It is a small 15ft closed bow boat with an 85hp merc on it. I have seen similar models with the same hp do 45mph. Im hoping to get that after all the bugs are worked out of it. Should I use something stronger than just silicone and screws to secure the cap to the hull?
