Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Silver Eagle

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 16, 2010
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852
Sometime after the weather warms up I'm going to replace all the wood on my bunk trailer. My question is what size are the nut's and bolts. Are they round heads or Hex. How long are they and How many washers do I need. Do I need to sink the heads into the wood from the top. I think I will use 2x6's instead of 2x4's .The reason I'm doing this is some of the nut's are rusting up and I may not be able to remove them if I wait much longer.
 

ajgraz

Lieutenant Commander
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Mar 1, 2010
Messages
1,858
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

You want us to guess what size tires your trailer takes, too? :p

You're going to need to provide more information, maybe some pics.
 

infideltarget

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Aug 30, 2010
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Last trailer I rebunked, just a few months ago in fact, I also used 2x6s, pressure treated and covered with a UV and mildew resistant marine carpeting. I used galvanized (as this was a galvanized trailer) lag bolts (hex headed, large diameter, large thread pitched, screws) that were 1 1/2" long (so as to not go all the way thru the wood) and put them in from under the bunk. No metal was anywhere near the hull. This was the way it came from the factory (EZ Loader), and was the way I replaced it.
 

shepster

Cadet
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Oct 30, 2008
Messages
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

I've always used galvenized lag bolts. eventually they will rust, but years down the road.

But we are going blind, you didn't tell us your set-up.
 

Silver Eagle

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Mar 16, 2010
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Thanks for your answer.I wasn't sure if I should use lag bolts or try to just use nut's and bolts. Did you have to remove the boat to do this or just slide it of the bunk you were taking out. I can float the boat off and anchor it If I have too.
 

infideltarget

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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Thanks for your answer.I wasn't sure if I should use lag bolts or try to just use nut's and bolts. Did you have to remove the boat to do this or just slide it of the bunk you were taking out. I can float the boat off and anchor it If I have too.

My boat was off the trailer at the time, but you could, in theory, lift or jack the boat enough to remove / replace the bunks, especially if attaching from the underside like mine were. Just watch where you lift from, or jack from to avoid gel coat damage or hull deformation.
 

wifisher

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Mar 9, 2011
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578
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

You probably could get away with just lifting the boat off of the bunk, but I think it would be a LOT easier to anchor the boat, and work on an empty trailer. It will give you a lot more room to work.
For the fasteners, just replace whatever is already there with the same. That way you know you don't have to change any mounts or brackets etc. Plus you already know that it works.
 

rickryder

Commander
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Jun 24, 2010
Messages
2,722
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Just some FYI....If you are going to use ACQ (pressure treated lumber) You must use ACQ compliant fasteners,also if your wood is contacting a steel bracket get some copper flashing they use for outdoor decks to put between the bracket and the wood. The new ACQ wood will eat away steel and aluminum because of the chemicals used to treat it. All fasteners must be double dipped galvanized,stainless or ceramic coated.
 

Silver Eagle

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Mar 16, 2010
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

I'm going to use pressure treated wood and I'm going to paint the wood with a good exterior paint maybe porch and floor. It's not like the boat will be in the water all day long. I am going to use 2x6's instead of 2x4's though.
 

lncoop

Vice Admiral
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Apr 18, 2010
Messages
5,147
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Use 2x6s if you want of course, but 2x4s are fine. There are all sorts of configurations, but if your trailer is like mine and many others' the bunks are attached to brackets with lag screws inserted from the bottom. If so, it's a simple matter of taking one out to match size. If you have all your ducks in a row it shouldn't take you long at all to re-bunk your trailer, so splashing the barge is probably the most expedient method if there's a suitable place (one where you can tie her up out of the way) reasonably close.
 

90stingray

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Oct 26, 2010
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1,162
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Sometime after the weather warms up I'm going to replace all the wood on my bunk trailer. My question is what size are the nut's and bolts. Mine were 1/4" bolts. Just look and see what you have.Are they round heads or Hex. Mine were carriage bolts... so round.How long are they and How many washers do I need. Depends on how you are attaching them, but if you are coming in from from the top... long enough to go thru the board plus the bracket. So 2" bolt should do. One washer and lock washer per bolt will doDo I need to sink the heads into the wood from the top. I sunk the heads in from the top, using carriage boltsI think I will use 2x6's instead of 2x4's Either one is fine.The reason I'm doing this is some of the nut's are rusting up and I may not be able to remove them if I wait much longer.You can always cut them off

I took measurments of the old ones while the boat was still on it. Cut all boards to length, countersunk the bolts and installed bolts (use galvanized bolts.) Then a swipe of glue on the top to keep the carpet locked down. A 12" wide carpet will work well on a 2x6 with a 2" air gap at the bottom. Wrap the ends and hold tight with roofing nails. Use monel staples along the rest of the ends of the carpet. Drop the boat in the water and rip off the boards and sit your new ones on and tighten down. I put my boat in a slip for a week and ended up having the trailer sand blasted and i repainted it in the garage, then put my boards on :cool: Easy to get carried away as always. BTW- i used plain boards (not treated) since the originals lasted 25 years. But either one will work fine... just watch the outdoor carpet glue. Most are not suitable for treated wood since its so wet. Also, i chamfered the very end of the back of all boards on the boat side, to give a less of a sharp edge... so less chance to rub thru carpet. Since they usually wear thru there first. Goodluck!
 

lncoop

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Apr 18, 2010
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Holy smokes Stingray. You do it right! Wanna come do mine?:p
 

Silverbullet555

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Mar 13, 2011
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

When I did mine 2 years ago I measured the boards and cut the new ones. Routed the edges so they were curved. While the boat was in the water I pulled the old boards and used them as guides for the holes on the new boards. Countersunk the holes and used SS through bolts using carriage bolts. After putting the bolts through I covered the bunks with carpet. Put them on the trailer and snugged them up and made sure the head of the bolts was well below the surface of the board.

Loaded the boat and made sure all was good then tightened the bolts the rest of the way. used lock washers and double nuts to lock it all in. The next spring I re-tightened everything knowing there would be some shrinkage and to ensure all was good.

I get to do it all again as this next year I am having the trailer sand blasted and repainted.

To attach the carpet I used stainless steel staples.
 

Rusty Boater

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 19, 2007
Messages
96
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

I have done it two ways...

1. I took it to the plant I manage and lifted it off with a forklift and sat it on cribbing. (goverment project) :)

2. Measure the current bunks and build the replacements and have them ready to go, drop the wife, kids, and the boat in the water at the ramp and tell her to come pick me up in a hour. Replaced the bunks with my cordless impact and took a 15 min swim waiting on her to get back.

Your choice!!!!!!!! :)
 

jondavies

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 17, 2010
Messages
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

... SS through bolts using carriage bolts. After putting the bolts through I covered the bunks with carpet. Put them on the trailer and snugged them up and made sure the head of the bolts was well below the surface of the board.

I was tired of the lag screws working their way loose and eventually chewing up the wood so I went this route too. It's very solid and I think it's worth the extra effort.
 

Silver Eagle

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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

I'm supposed to get all this done this weekend. On Friday the marina where I keep it will lift the boat off of the trailoer then Iwill tow it to my summer place and do the work and on Monday if the weather holds up they will put the boat back on my trailer. While I have the trailer I'm going to put new LED water proof tail lights on too..Boy I wish I were younger, I'll be 70 in October.
 

Silverbullet555

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Mar 13, 2011
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Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

I'm supposed to get all this done this weekend. On Friday the marina where I keep it will lift the boat off of the trailoer then Iwill tow it to my summer place and do the work and on Monday if the weather holds up they will put the boat back on my trailer. While I have the trailer I'm going to put new LED water proof tail lights on too..Boy I wish I were younger, I'll be 70 in October.

Do the bunks first. The lights can be replaced with the boat on the trailer.

I wish I was younger too.
 

ajgraz

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Messages
1,858
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Do the bunks first. The lights can be replaced with the boat on the trailer.

I wish I was younger too.

All this is true, but if you're running new wiring on the trailer obviously that's easier with the boat off the trailer.
 

75TowerOfPower

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
331
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

Easier on the back and don't have to get on the ground.
 

four winns 214

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Oct 25, 2008
Messages
778
Re: Re-boarding Bunk trailer

When I replaced my trailer bunks, I used boards of the same dimensions and the same type of fasteners (countersunk carriage bolts) since they seemed to work for the previous eight years. The only change is that I used stainless carriage bolts in an attempt to prevent rust. Like another poster, I chamfered the ends of the boards.

One snag I ran into is that I couldn't find any carriage bolt lock washers locally. These are round washers with four prongs that bite into the wood. The center opening is square to accommodate the square head of the carriage bolt. They allow the carriage bolt nut to be torqued without the head turning.

Here's a link to a supplier: http://www.wclco.com/Lock_Washers/Carriage_Bolts.php

To fasten the carpet, I used these monel stainless staples that are intended for marine use: http://www.arrowfastener.com/product/t50-monel-staples-item-506m1

They're available at Lowe's, but you may have to hunt for them.
 
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