Ohms read 960 at cold. Seems functional.The temp is on the front of the intake and has 2 wires
The diode is most likely the Red plug. The more I think about it, its not the diode
Ohms read 960 at cold. Seems functional.The temp is on the front of the intake and has 2 wires
The diode is most likely the Red plug. The more I think about it, its not the diode
This could be coincidence but I started messing around with the harness that’s attached to the TKS module and the bundle going elsewhere. I can’t readily reproduce, but it seems like it wanted to drop more consistently after I was messing around with the wiring around that area but it wouldn’t do it every time or immediately and now is running fine...Being TKS might have an issue with the Temp switch, diode or TKS module.
Anyone of the above if it starts drawing more current, may drain power from the coil
Temp at 155 on gauge, the ohms are .13 after 5 minutes. My volt meter was set at 2kThe temp sensor is a switch. its open below 110* and closes about 130*
From manual 41 the TKS module test Ambient Temp
70* = 35 - 45 ohms
20* = 55 - 70 ohms
If the 960 ohms is from the TKS then its out of range but doesn't indicate a excess current issue. Might take longer to warm up
If its the Temp then there is an issue
Wrong sensors, that is the gauge sensorTemp at 155 on gauge, the ohms are .13 after 5 minutes. My volt meter was set at 2k
It takes 10 to 20 minutes from motor cold for the TKS module to totally retract. That's the only thing right now that would take about that long
It's a standard 3 fuse. It’s actually a red and purple wire separately spliced into the ignition with the red the only one going to that fuse. The purple runs up to a harness.Reminds me of a auto rest breaker. The ones which trip when heat builds then reconnect when they cool down. If it has one then it could be its tripping at a lower amp rating. Find the fuse/breaker on the Red/Purple wire going to the key switch. See if its a regular type or a auto rest
Sorry wouldn't let me revise. There's also a red ten amp that's not resettable. It's attached to two red with black stripe wiresThat's not the ignition fuse, might be the stay alive power 3 amp. Ignition will be at least 15 amp
Do you mean the reset amp on front? It's a 20. This I replaced recently as well. I can check all with meter.That's probably it
Place a meter on one side of the Red/Purple or Red/Black of the 50 amp breaker. The other side of the breaker will come from the starter post and should be solid Red.
Trying to find out maybe the breaker is trip/resting. It shouldn't but might be
Ugh yes my bad. I'm underway. I suspected this at times. Thanks for all your help. I'll check it at port soon.
I wasn’t able to reproduce the issue today with meter hooker upUgh yes my bad. I'm underway. I suspected this at times. Thanks for all your help. I'll check it at port soon.