Raising motor on transom

[Hunter65]

I have a 2017 Lowe FS 1710, same as the new fs1800

right now the motor(115 Merc) is as low as it can go, on top hole. I want to raise it but if I raise it even one hole it will be against the transom cap, I do not want to crush the cap, so do I put thick washers on the bolts to space the motor brackets away from the transom?

 

[Sea Rider]

Assume that's an alum boat, right ? It it possible to file the cap down to have a flat transom at both sides ? Is the cap some form of an outer edge ? Post pics of the problem....

Happy Boating

 

[ahicks]

I have a 2017 Lowe FS 1710, same as the new fs1800

right now the motor(115 Merc) is as low as it can go, on top hole. I want to raise it but if I raise it even one hole it will be against the transom cap, I do not want to crush the cap, so do I put thick washers on the bolts to space the motor brackets away from the transom?

Not caring for the "washer" plan at all. If you could come up with some alum. plate stock the correct thickness I would go that route. Or maybe trim the transom cap....

 

[GA_Boater]

Either some aluminum stock as ahicks said or a plywood plate similar to what older aluminum boats used. With either plate, thick enough to allow the clamp to clear the trim cap. If you use wood, do some good protection on it.

What's wrong with the washer idea is 115 horses will have only four washers absorbing all the forces. The clamp is designed to be flat against the transom to spread the forces.

 

[Hunter65]

Not near the boat today, yes the cap is just that, it is preformed to cover the top of the transom from one side of the hull to the other, Rolls over each side by about 1/2 inch with a ridge and lip on it.
the 115 merc the mounting is 2 flat pieces one on each side of the motor with numerous holes, bolts to the transom,nothing going over the transom.
Tops bolts are bolts with nuts. I have not removed the access plate to see if the bottom bolts are the same, as on the outside just have bolt heads.
I would think the set up would be the same as the Crestliner and Lund, well, they are all owned by the same company,

 

[Sea Rider]

What's the issue about running the combo as is, are there water splashes out/over transom, prop aeration to wanting raising the motor ?

Happy Boating

 

[Hunter65]

cavitation plate is a couple inches below the bottom of the boat, when on plane a lot of water is going up on both sides of the motor, not out like any other boat I ever had. Plus will be more efficient.

 

[Sea Rider]

Would you say the lower leg is producing a water splash right in middle of both lowe plates as in pic or above the upper plate ?

Happy Boating

 

[Hunter65]

neither, the splashing, streams of water is caused from the plate above the cavitation plate. That should not be near the water while under power, unless at an idle..

 

[Faztbullet]

Being a FS the CG is more forward and need to be a tad deeper. A good place to start on that hull is even with bottom. A optimal set up would look like this.....

 

[Hunter65]

Being a FS the CG is more forward and need to be a tad deeper. A good place to start on that hull is even with bottom. A optimal set up would look like this.....

that is pretty much my boat, except I have dual consoles, and yes the boat in the picture the cavitation plate is right were it should be.
local boat shop wants a hundred bucks to raise it one hr labor

 

[emoney]

That's a fair price. Let them do it.

 

[ahicks]

that is pretty much my boat, except I have dual consoles, and yes the boat in the picture the cavitation plate is right were it should be.
local boat shop wants a hundred bucks to raise it one hr labor

Before they start, ask them what they plan on doing regarding that top cap! Make sure you buy into their answer. They may plan on doing nothing. Just move the motor up and tighten it.....

 

[Hunter65]

Before they start, ask them what they plan on doing regarding that top cap! Make sure you buy into their answer. They may plan on doing nothing. Just move the motor up and tighten it.....

talked to them today, they said they will have to see how high the motor needs to go up, then decide. They sell Crestliner and said the transom is set up the same..

 

[ahicks]

Curious what they come up with. Please let us know! -Al

 

[Captain Caveman]

Agreed. The deal at the shop is worth it if they have a good plan.

Many moons and two boats ago, I had a regular long shaft tiller on a boat with the same problems as you. I went to the metal shop, picked out some 2" square tube and two flats, then took it to my buddy. He welded up a transom cap for me that raised the motor two inches. Since the flat plates were welded to the tube, it slid down both sides of my transom and allowed me to through-bolt it.

The setup worked great until I sold the boat. Had someone offered to do it all for a hundred bucks, I would have paid it.

 

[Hunter65]

They just moved the motor up. No spacer as hey were doing this on a boat same model as mine but a foot longer when I took my boat in. They said Crestliner Lowe and Lund all have the same cap and no big deal.

I finally got the motor raised 2notches and installed the turning point prop, same size as the merc black max, 3 blade 13.25 x 17. so not really an apples to apples. It takes off fine, gets on plane quick, and I can run 30 mph at 4,000rpm trimmed up pretty good with some trimming left, top speed is about the same 46ish with gps at 6,000rpm
before with the merc prop and motor down on the bottom notch I could trim into the tilt portion before cavitating, not good...
I may go up one size next time I destroy a prop...but do not want to loose take off speed...maybe up one size with a 4 blade..????

 

[ahicks]

We all know props are compromises. The 4 blade is about blade area, which is about low and mid range power/torque, with the downside being related to making that extra blade area go fast.

I would bet that a 19" 3 blade will go a bit faster than your 17" (but nothing spectacular), the downside there being the loss of bottom end acceleration that you have now.

So you're lying smack dab in the middle. The RIGHT prop will depend on your priorities. Nice power available for hard acceleration, usually chosen for water sports which could be 3 or 4 blade for light sport boats, or good cruise performance and best top end with a 3 blade prop. Your call....

 

[Captain Caveman]

I have two props that I switch between. When it's just me or a buddy fishing, I use my prop with better high-end speed. If I am pulling tubes or skiers, or fishing with 3-4 guys in the boat, I put on my other prop for better hole shot. That prop will cause me to hit the rev limiter if I'm not careful though.

Whichever prop that I am not using is merely my spare prop in case I hit a rock.