Quiet warning horn.

[Sirrobin53]

1994 Evinrude 150 eleom. My warning horn on my helm is way too QUIET. I figured it was because it was too old as it is the original so purchased a new one. The new one is just as quiet. Any thoughts? Battery is up. Regulator is new and charges 14.4v . Am running VRO so need to be able to hear it.

 

[gm280]

Are you saying that the horns are not working or just too quiet? If they are not working, you have other issues and not the horns themselves. If they are too quiet, then buy some louder types. JMHO

 

[Sirrobin53]

It is the standard horn. It was never this quiet.

 

[Sirrobin53]

Is there logic in the oil tank of the 94 that can fail?

 

[GA_Boater]

Has the horn gotten quieter over the years? If it used to be louder, I would check voltage and ground at the horn since the new one is soft also.

 

[Sirrobin53]

I'M not sure how or when this started. I'very gotten deaf slowly ;-). Checked all connections at helm and all appear good. Have charged battery and brushed connectors at helm.

 

[gm280]

Sirrobin53, So the horns are actually working but are quieter then usual. If you have a DVM or volt ohm meter, test the voltage at the horn when it is sounding. If it isn't ~12 volts, you have wiring issues. If it is around ~12 volts, then you have hearing issues. And I say that not as a joke because if the correct voltage is present and you even bought a new horn, then there is no reason for it to be quieter then you remember. Take some wires and use your car battery to test the new one and see. If it sounds quiet to you as well, it isn't the horns. But that will direct you to any wiring issues if it sound correct. JMHO

 

[Sirrobin53]

Yes. The initial key on is quiet. Afraid to hook up to car battery and arbitrarily ground, as the horn has logic to tell which sensor is grounding by way of ohm value. At $100 dollars a pop,.............. ;-). I have not checked the other sensors. Duh........ Guess I was going to try 1 thing at a time. I still wonder if there is logic in the oil tank. I thought I read that 94 oil tanks had that and when that goes bad it causes buzzing or muffled horn?
Dark and cold out now. Will test overheat sensors and fuel restrictions sensors tomorrow.

 

[Sirrobin53]

Thanks for the help so far. Please keep ideas coming. I really appreciate the help.

 

[ondarvr]

I've replaced the horns with ones from Radio Shack, cheaper and you can get the sound and volume you desire.

 

[Sirrobin53]

Going to be doing some testing 2day. Researched until 2AM and found only 1 almost unrelated note that the oil tank might be the culprit. Something like the 94 oil tanks had electronics in it that might cause a buzzing or muffled horn. Really appreciate all of the input from everyone. A great site with gracious and courteous members.

 

[gm280]

Sirrobin53, when I suggested you to test the horn using a car battery and wires, I wasn't saying to do that with it still connected in the circuit. I was saying testing the horn(s) out of circuit. Never apply battery voltage to such a circuit because it can feed back into other electronics connected and possibly fry them depending how those electronics are setup. So if you have the horn(s) out of the circuit, you should be able to test them that way. But only if they are setup to use 12 volts to sound.

Anyway, if you now thing there is something else causing your issue, Do search and see. But then report back here for us to know what you've found out. That way others having similar issues can read your thread and learn something. That is what these forums are all about.

 

[Sirrobin53]

GM280. Absolutely no disrespect for your suggestions. I was simply saying that the warning horn is a small OEM horn. Not a separate horn. The horn is about the size of a liberty silver dollar and way overpriced.

 

[gm280]

GM280. Absolutely no disrespect for your suggestions. I was simply saying that the warning horn is a small OEM horn. Not a separate horn. The horn is about the size of a liberty silver dollar and way overpriced.

Okay, not what I was thinking in my mind, that's for sure That is merely a buzzer/horn circuit. I will admit, $100 dollars is WAY over priced. So if you replaced it with a new one and it still isn't functioning properly, I think you need to look at what is triggering that circuit. But that all also means the proper voltage is present at the horn circuit. My first troubleshooting option would be to verify proper voltages are present. And if so, then move on to the sensors. If the voltage are not correct, then you have to check out that issue.

Keep posting to let us know how your troubleshooting is working out, and also with pictures. Because seening what you are dealing with drives answers, at least with respect to mine anyways.

 

[Sirrobin53]

Okay, here's what I found. The attached picture shows the warning horn and the connections. It takes + 12 volts on one terminal and tan wire on the other. The ground is the separate black wire. By simply hooking a trailer marker light across the 12 volt and the tan wire the light works flawlessly. The light will light very dimly as there is 3.5 volts between the tan terminal and the 12 volt terminal. The added benefit of that, is that you will always know the light is working as it is lit very dimly when the key position is on. What a plus. When the oil is low, my oil tank sends a pulse every 15 seconds and the light and the horn are in unison. Turning the key on flashes the light brightly for a second then goes to the dim 3 volt setting. Removing the overheat from the cylinder head creates a constant beep and Light. I am one happy boater. Oh yeah, my kids agree I need hearing aid

 

[Sirrobin53]

Consider this one solved and thanks for all the help from all the members

 

[Fed]

Sorry Sirrobin you're not done yet.

OMC started with a 2 wire horn, 12V in from the Acc wire with the tan wire going out to be grounded by the temp sensors on overheat.

Then came the the VROs which after the original VRO problems they decided an alarm system would be a good idea.
Problem, how to distinguish between overheat & VRO alarms?
Answer, we'll give the VRO a little brain which rapidly shorts the tan wire to ground on/off/on/off/on/off....
and we'll give the oil bottle a little brain which shorts the tan wire to ground every 30 seconds or so.

Along the way they decided a self test for the horn would be good.
Problem, how to turn it off after the test?
Answer, we'll give the horn a little brain to switch it off after a little test, looks like we'll have to add a ground to make it work hence the 3 wire horn was born.

Around the late 80s they also added a vacuum switch which has no brain the same as the temp sensors.

With your horn connected correctly removing the tan wire should only allow it to work on the self test.
Grounding the tan wire should give a continuous full on 12 Volt beeeeeeep.
After that the beep sequences are controlled by the little brains but still only 12 Volts or 0 Volts.

The good news is your motor is a 1995 model.

 

[Sirrobin53]

Thanks for the information on the horn.I have tested the oil circuit, key up and overheat conditions and they seem to be properly signaled by the horn and light. What am I missing?

 

[Fed]

The light will light very dimly as there is 3.5 volts between the tan terminal and the 12 volt terminal.

That doesn't seem right, there should be nothing unless there is a fault condition.

Removing the overheat from the cylinder head creates a constant beep and Light.

That's not right.

It's the grounding of the sensors (tan wire) that activates the horn.

 

[Sirrobin53]

I stand corrected. Wrong information. GROUNDING the overheat sensor is continuous horn. Good find Fed.