Questions about redecking a boat

[Newtonsean]

I recently purchased a 1973 16 foot Ouachita fishing boat the outside hull was in decent shape but the floor had a hole in the fiberglass and some noticeable weak spots after tearing out the floor and clearing the waterlogged foam (tons of fun by the way) I am ready to rebuild the deck and I have a few questions that someone with more experience than me would have better insight in to.

​1. Most of the wood under the fiber glass deck was rotted to pieces so removing it was pretty easy but there are a few spots toward the edge of the deck where the wood under the fiberglass is still intact I want to remove the old wood without damaging the fiberglass on top of it so I have something to tab to when refiberglassing the deck. Does anyone have some tips or tricks about how to do this?

2. Sense I am going to be refiberglassing over the deck is it nessary to us marine grade plywood?

3. When searching the interwebs for resin to use I decided on epoxy resin so that I would get good hold to the old fiberglass. I am thinking of using max bond epoxy boat building resin and wanted to know if anyone had experience with the product or other recomendations. It also comes in a low medium and high viscosity and I wanted to know what would work best for my application. Please keep in mind when suggesting resins that I am in college and have a wife that's not a huge fan of me spending tons of money on a boat.

Thanks in advance for the help I will post some pictures to hopfully clarify what I am hoping to accomplish

 

[garbageguy]

I think others with more resto experience will be along, but how are the stringers and transom?

 

[Newtonsean]

Transom is in good shape there is slight damage on one of the stringers but I removed the small rotted section of it and am getting ready to reglass it

 

[SkaterRace]

Careful with saying the small rotten section on here. Someone will be along to ring you out for that one. A small section of rot is rarely that, often it is a bitter area. Should check with cores to see if it is farther or not. Also for the replacement on the stringer you cut out make sure there is as much surface area for the joint to give the best bond.

 

[Newtonsean]

Careful with saying the small rotten section on here. Someone will be along to ring you out for that one. A small section of rot is rarely that, often it is a bitter area. Should check with cores to see if it is farther or not. Also for the replacement on the stringer you cut out make sure there is as much surface area for the joint to give the best bond.

I took out about 3 feet of stringer the wood past that looks good and thanks for the advice on reglassing it in

 

[SkaterRace]

I can't comment on the resin you have chosen I have always used west systems. As for the plywood marine or ACX I think it is. Even though you are coating it is resin it is best to use good plywood although I am sure any okay plywood will work just fine. I see you are on a low budget so pick the best you can find from Rona or Lowes.

 

[Grub54891]

Marine grade plywood has no voids to hold moisture. Construction grade exterior has voids that will hold moisture, even though completely sealed, it may get wet. Both use glue that is water resistant. I prefer to use marine grade, at least when attaching anything, I have no chance of hitting a void and the fastener wont hold.​I also totally encapsulate the wood, And seal every fastner when installing.