Question re: Arjay 6011 transom pour, inner skin prep

[CWKboat]

Hello, I am soon to pour the transom on my 2002 Larson 21 ft using Arjay 6011. Of note, there is no issue with removing wood, because the transom core was structural foam that failed due to poor overall design and surrounding reinforcement. These issues have been shored up with knees in the bilge, and beefed up tabbing around the entire perimeter of the transom. So, it's ready to pour.

Do I need to pre-apply polyester resin and the make the pour while the resin is still wet? Or is it enough to sand and clean the existing inner skins, clean, and then pour the Arjay? Again, the inner skins have no wood residue and would be sanded (any they are already smooth).

My concern with pre-applying the resin is with the working time, as I then have to seal off the transom cap area with tape and make sure that I of course have a uniform transom width/thickness all the way across before pouring the Arjay. This leads to my next question: The Arjay uses MEKP as a catalyst, and from what I've heard generates noticeable heat. So, in that case, could the pre-applied resin be mixed in such a way to provide longer working time in order to then prep everything for the Arjay pour, which would then provide the heat?

Anyone have experience or wisdom to share with this scenario or best practices concerning the order of operations? I just want to think through and plan this well, as it's a one shot deal in effect, and the Arjay was pricey.

Thanks for any suggestions or helpful hints!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question re: Arjay 6011 transom pour, inner skin prep

From all my research and reading here on the forum and watcing several of our members do their pours, I think all that's left for you to do is a final wipedown with acetone of the inner walls, let em dry and pour the Arjay. It does generate heat but nothing that the existing glass won't handle. What is the approx. thickness of your inner/outer skins? Have you checked out archbuilders thread?

 

[Coho Ghost]

Re: Question re: Arjay 6011 transom pour, inner skin prep

CWK
When I did a NIDA poured transom, their tech person suggested coating the inside of the transom with unwaxed catalyzed poly resin the day before the pour. This of course was after all wood was removed, sanded as best one could and washed with acetone. Yes it will get pretty warm; my surface temp devise showed 160-170 degrees F. at peak exotherm.

FWIW
Coho Ghost

 

[CWKboat]

Re: Question re: Arjay 6011 transom pour, inner skin prep

From all my research and reading here on the forum and watcing several of our members do their pours, I think all that's left for you to do is a final wipedown with acetone of the inner walls, let em dry and pour the Arjay. It does generate heat but nothing that the existing glass won't handle. What is the approx. thickness of your inner/outer skins? Have you checked out archbuilders thread?

Woodonglass,

Thanks, if you scroll down to my entry on this thread on 11/9/11, you will see pictures of the thickness of the skins prior to getting all the foam out and getting ready for the Arjay pour. Don't recall the exact thickness, but the existing skins are strong and the inner skin was built up some in the repair and addition of the knees.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=519142

In that case, I guess I will just wipe it down and pour, just wanted to make sure I got good adhesion to the skins with the Arjay.

 

[CWKboat]

Re: Question re: Arjay 6011 transom pour, inner skin prep

Have you checked out archbuilders thread?

Didn't he use Seacast?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question re: Arjay 6011 transom pour, inner skin prep

I'm at work and cannot access Flickr sooo... cannot see those pics. Yes he used Seacast but they are basically the same product. He used a series of bolts with spacers to ensure there was no flexing between the two skins. Coated them with vaseline to make sure he could get em out and then filled the holes later.

 

[CWKboat]

Re: Question re: Arjay 6011 transom pour, inner skin prep

I'm at work and cannot access Flickr sooo... cannot see those pics. Yes he used Seacast but they are basically the same product. He used a series of bolts with spacers to ensure there was no flexing between the two skins. Coated them with vaseline to make sure he could get em out and then filled the holes later.

Yeah, I had wondered too about drawing it in to proper thickeness with bolts/spacers through the motor holes with 2X4 bracing on the outsides to pull it all in uniform. The vaseline idea is a good one! Will check out his thread later.