Re: pvc water supply pipes
What works great for your lawn sprinklers might not be quite so great once the wall is all sealed up. Yes it works fine and is easier to work, but don't think you can cut corners. So long as local code says it is OK, go for it.<br /><br />Try to ventilate the work area best as you can if you think the fumes from the glue might build up. (Not good to breathe if you value your brain cells & if allowed to accumulate enough could ignite somehow) CPVC for hot water is absolutely correct. Regular PVC will soften and let go if warm enough. Use Sch 80 for both hot and cold- CPVC and PVC- if you want a little extra margin of safety, both for the pipe and fittings. Especially the fittings. The pipe is cheap so might as well upgrade that too. Clean the pipe/fittings first, and deburr the pipe thoroughly. Always use the appropriate CPVC/PVC primer and fresh glue to give you a chance for a good tight joint. Yes the primer does help a bunch, and gives several seconds longer to work the joint. And let cure according to directions. By the way, Sch 80's inside diameter is naturally smaller because the walls are thicker, so max flow is slightly less, though in most places won't usually matter.<br /><br /><br />I ran a bunch of Sch 80 PVC for ultrapure medical (dialysis) grade water as well as chemical solutions, in sizes from 1/2" to 1 1/2". We ran it up as high as 120 PSI @ 80 deg. F. It has been run 12+ hours a day six days a week for 15 years, so it must be OK.
The properly glued joints never gave us a bit of problem, although threaded is good to avoid where possible, especially inside walls! Teflon tape threaded joints, never use pipe dope on plastic fittings. I suggest that if any inline valves are used, don't get too cheap. I preferred true union ball valves if they were used enough to ever need replacing- never had to cut & glue to replace. If your pipes tend to rattle (water-hammer) then fix that first with an air reservoir; a dead leg stub pointing up teed into a horizontal run with enough volume to trap sufficient air- the air pressurizes because of water pressure & acts as a pressure buffer. A couple or three feet of 3/4" or 1" would probably help a lot if you actually have this issue. Plumbing can take a beating from water-hammer if bad enough and left long enough. This is true for any setup, but no less so plastic.