Push rod cover gasket replacement and distributor

[MaxGlide]

Hi all. I want to replace the gasket on the push rod cover as it appears there is oil leaking from there. It appears I need to remove the distributor to get the cover out. Can anyone guide me through this so I don't screw up the timing?
thanks in advance.

 

[achris]

What engine? (Make, year, model, serial number)

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you have a pushrod cover, you either have an inline 4 or inline 6. however there were 6 different engine displacements in the family. as @achris asked. what are you working on?

pulling the distributor, you will mess up timing. however you then re-set the timing. adjusting timing is not a big deal. if you dont have a timing light get one. if your boat has points, also get a dwell meter.

• pull cap and wires
• take silver sharpie, mark the distributor and block
• take sliver sharpie, mark where rotor is on the dizzy body,
• remove distributor hold down clamp
• pull distributor out. as you pull out, the rotor will turn about 35-40 degrees, and when its free, mark the location of the rotor on the dizzy body
• set asside
• pull the center bolts on the pushrod cover
• carefully remove the cover. do not pry like a gorilla and bend the cover
• remove the gasket
• clean the gasket surfaces
• get a felpro rubber gasket (do not get a cork gasket)
• use some permatex #3 (aviation) sealer or other similar sealant to hold the gasket in place
• install cover
• install cover bolts, sealing the bolts with permatex #3
• torque bolts to spec (found in the service manual)
• pick up distributor from where you set it down
• set rotor to the 2nd mark you made on the distributor
• install distributor by aligning block and distributor, as you insert the distributor it will turn slightly back to the first mark
• if the dizzy has not completely seated and the rotor has not come around to the second mark on the dizzy body, do not panic. this is normal. that means the drive tang on the bottom of the distributor has not fully engaged with the oilpump shaft. simply bump the starter and the dizzy will drop in.
• install distributor hold-down clamp
• reinstall distributor cap and wires
• now grab your timing light and set the timing.

if your inline engine has points, now is the time to service the points.
if your distributor has any slop in the shaft, now is the time to spend $13 on two new distributor bushings from NAPA

 

[MaxGlide]

What engine? (Make, year, model, serial number)

Oops! Sorry guys, of course I should have listed the engine info. 1978 Mercruiser 140, inline four. Serial number 3843732

 

[MaxGlide]

if you have a pushrod cover, you either have an inline 4 or inline 6. however there were 6 different engine displacements in the family. as @achris asked. what are you working on?

pulling the distributor, you will mess up timing. however you then re-set the timing. adjusting timing is not a big deal. if you dont have a timing light get one. if your boat has points, also get a dwell meter.

• pull cap and wires
• take silver sharpie, mark the distributor and block
• take sliver sharpie, mark where rotor is on the dizzy body,
• remove distributor hold down clamp
• pull distributor out. as you pull out, the rotor will turn about 35-40 degrees, and when its free, mark the location of the rotor on the dizzy body
• set asside
• pull the center bolts on the pushrod cover
• carefully remove the cover. do not pry like a gorilla and bend the cover
• remove the gasket
• clean the gasket surfaces
• get a felpro rubber gasket (do not get a cork gasket)
• use some permatex #3 (aviation) sealer or other similar sealant to hold the gasket in place
• install cover
• install cover bolts, sealing the bolts with permatex #3
• torque bolts to spec (found in the service manual)
• pick up distributor from where you set it down
• set rotor to the 2nd mark you made on the distributor
• install distributor by aligning block and distributor, as you insert the distributor it will turn slightly back to the first mark
• if the dizzy has not completely seated and the rotor has not come around to the second mark on the dizzy body, do not panic. this is normal. that means the drive tang on the bottom of the distributor has not fully engaged with the oilpump shaft. simply bump the starter and the dizzy will drop in.
• install distributor hold-down clamp
• reinstall distributor cap and wires
• now grab your timing light and set the timing.

if your inline engine has points, now is the time to service the points.
if your distributor has any slop in the shaft, now is the time to spend $13 on two new distributor bushings from NAPA

THANK YOU so much for this info. Super clear instructions. Is Permatex, Ultra Black good for this gasket ( I got the rubber one), the oil pan gasket and the water pump gasket?

 

[achris]

if you have a pushrod cover, you either have an inline 4 or inline 6. however there were 6 different engine displacements in the family. as @achris asked. what are you working on?

pulling the distributor, you will mess up timing. however you then re-set the timing. adjusting timing is not a big deal. if you dont have a timing light get one. if your boat has points, also get a dwell meter.

• pull cap and wires
• take silver sharpie, mark the distributor and block
• take sliver sharpie, mark where rotor is on the dizzy body,
• remove distributor hold down clamp
• pull distributor out. as you pull out, the rotor will turn about 35-40 degrees, and when its free, mark the location of the rotor on the dizzy body
• set aside
• pull the center bolts on the pushrod cover
• carefully remove the cover. do not pry like a gorilla and bend the cover
• remove the gasket
• clean the gasket surfaces
• get a felpro rubber gasket (do not get a cork gasket)
• use some permatex #3 (aviation) sealer or other similar sealant to hold the gasket in place
• install cover
• install cover bolts, sealing the bolts with permatex #3
• torque bolts to spec (found in the service manual)
• pick up distributor from where you set it down
• set rotor to the 2nd mark you made on the distributor
• install distributor by aligning block and distributor, as you insert the distributor it will turn slightly back to the first mark
• if the dizzy has not completely seated and the rotor has not come around to the second mark on the dizzy body, do not panic. this is normal. that means the drive tang on the bottom of the distributor has not fully engaged with the oilpump shaft. simply bump the starter and the dizzy will drop in.
• install distributor hold-down clamp
• reinstall distributor cap and wires
• now grab your timing light and set the timing.

if your inline engine has points, now is the time to service the points.
if your distributor has any slop in the shaft, now is the time to spend $13 on two new distributor bushings from NAPA

Before you do any of this ^^^, turn the engine until it's at TDC on #1, on the firing stroke (look at where the rotor is pointed). That way, if you accidentally move the distributor while it's out, you already know the engine is at TDC on #1, on the firing stroke and you can 'start from scratch' to get it all back together. But absolutely, you need a timing light. Even without getting anything wrong, you need to check (and adjust) the timing when the job's done (or you'll be back here asking why you have a hole in a piston).

Chris.....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Oops! Sorry guys, of course I should have listed the engine info. 1978 Mercruiser 140, inline four. Serial number 3843732

you have points style ignition. you need to service the points every spring as they oxidize over winter

• file the points (emery cloth, your wifes nail file, or a points file)
• set the gap
• verify dwell (with a meter)
• set timing

because of this, you need a dwell meter and a timing light

most likely you also need two new bushings in your distributor as well just due to age.

 

[MaxGlide]

Before you do any of this ^^^, turn the engine until it's at TDC on #1, on the firing stroke (look at where the rotor is pointed). That way, if you accidentally move the distributor while it's out, you already know the engine is at TDC on #1, on the firing stroke and you can 'start from scratch' to get it all back together. But absolutely, you need a timing light. Even without getting anything wrong, you need to check (and adjust) the timing when the job's done (or you'll be back here asking why you have a hole in a piston).

Chris.....

Thanks for the tip, Will do that!

 

[MaxGlide]

you have points style ignition. you need to service the points every spring as they oxidize over winter

• file the points (emery cloth, your wifes nail file, or a points file)
• set the gap
• verify dwell (with a meter)
• set timing

because of this, you need a dwell meter and a timing light

most likely you also need two new bushings in your distributor as well just due to age.

Hey there,
I switched out the points with an electronic ignition. Will this affect the procedure of setting the timing?

 

[Scott06]

Hey there,
I switched out the points with an electronic ignition. Will this affect the procedure of setting the timing?

You don't have to set dwell anymore. Did you use a petronix or other conversion kit or replace the whole distributor with a delco EST?
if you used a points replacement kit, timing is set the same.
if you used a delco est kit you need to put it in base mode first to set timing

 

[MaxGlide]

if you have a pushrod cover, you either have an inline 4 or inline 6. however there were 6 different engine displacements in the family. as @achris asked. what are you working on?

pulling the distributor, you will mess up timing. however you then re-set the timing. adjusting timing is not a big deal. if you dont have a timing light get one. if your boat has points, also get a dwell meter.

• pull cap and wires
• take silver sharpie, mark the distributor and block
• take sliver sharpie, mark where rotor is on the dizzy body,
• remove distributor hold down clamp
• pull distributor out. as you pull out, the rotor will turn about 35-40 degrees, and when its free, mark the location of the rotor on the dizzy body
• set asside
• pull the center bolts on the pushrod cover
• carefully remove the cover. do not pry like a gorilla and bend the cover
• remove the gasket
• clean the gasket surfaces
• get a felpro rubber gasket (do not get a cork gasket)
• use some permatex #3 (aviation) sealer or other similar sealant to hold the gasket in place
• install cover
• install cover bolts, sealing the bolts with permatex #3
• torque bolts to spec (found in the service manual)
• pick up distributor from where you set it down
• set rotor to the 2nd mark you made on the distributor
• install distributor by aligning block and distributor, as you insert the distributor it will turn slightly back to the first mark
• if the dizzy has not completely seated and the rotor has not come around to the second mark on the dizzy body, do not panic. this is normal. that means the drive tang on the bottom of the distributor has not fully engaged with the oilpump shaft. simply bump the starter and the dizzy will drop in.
• install distributor hold-down clamp
• reinstall distributor cap and wires
• now grab your timing light and set the timing.

if your inline engine has points, now is the time to service the points.
if your distributor has any slop in the shaft, now is the time to spend $13 on two new distributor bushings from NAPA

I replaced my points with electronic ignition but procedure is the same because you use the rotor position as reference, correct?

 

[MaxGlide]

You don't have to set dwell anymore. Did you use a petronix or other conversion kit or replace the whole distributor with a delco EST?
if you used a points replacement kit, timing is set the same.
if you used a delco est kit you need to put it in base mode first to set timing

I used a conversion kit, so off I do with standard timing. All this to replace the push rod cover gasket!! Arrgghh... oh well, it looked like the gasket was weeping oil and I don't want to deal with another summer of oil leaking into the bilge. We have an engine rebuild and the shop put the oil pan gasket in wrong. Dripped oil all last summer. They tried to stop it by gooping RTV all around the pan, but no good. Said they would not pull the engine again, as it is an old boat. So doing it myself and doing other items while the engine is out.

 

[Scott06]

I used a conversion kit, so off I do with standard timing. All this to replace the push rod cover gasket!! Arrgghh... oh well, it looked like the gasket was weeping oil and I don't want to deal with another summer of oil leaking into the bilge. We have an engine rebuild and the shop put the oil pan gasket in wrong. Dripped oil all last summer. They tried to stop it by gooping RTV all around the pan, but no good. Said they would not pull the engine again, as it is an old boat. So doing it myself and doing other items while the engine is out.

Funny part is its not much work to pull an engine… ashame they wouldn’t stand behind their work .

 

[MaxGlide]

Funny part is its not much work to pull an engine… ashame they wouldn’t stand behind their work .

yes, shameful indeed. We paid a pretty penny to get the original work done. I will never use Harrison Marine again. There are a few other things they missed too. Engine overheated, had the head gasket replaced. Got the boat back, they never checked the impeller or thermostat. SMH

 

[bbook83]

I lived with an oil leak for years on a 1974 140 4 cylinder, thinking it was the pan or rear seal. When I finally had the engine out, everything looked good down below, but I discovered a small leak at the back of the valve cover. A few drops of oil looks like a lot in a bilge, and leaks are hard to see in boat.

 

[MaxGlide]

I lived with an oil leak for years on a 1974 140 4 cylinder, thinking it was the pan or rear seal. When I finally had the engine out, everything looked good down below, but I discovered a small leak at the back of the valve cover. A few drops of oil looks like a lot in a bilge, and leaks are hard to see in boat.

Replaced valve cover gasket too! Ours was a constant drip and we actually were able to film where the cork gasket was sticking out and the oil dripping down. It squirted out where the rubber part of the gasket joins the cork, front, left corner of oil pan No Hitac applied I guess. I managed to find a one piece, rubber gasket on Ebay.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Most likely front timing cover has a rust hole

 

[MaxGlide]

Most likely front timing cover has a rust hole

I’ll check that while I’m at it!

 

[johnkom]

"Is Permatex, Ultra Black good for this gasket"

Never had much luck with this stuff when used as a primary gasket. I've had real good luck with the brand FelPro. Installed clean and dry.

JK

 

[Scott06]

I’ll check that while I’m at it!

This shadow area behind the balancer doesn’t get painted at the factory. Worth wire brushing and painting even if there is no rust through