Pulling engine, replacing rear seal, front cover, and oil pan gasket

[GIJeff]

No Title

We are also having trouble removing the exhaust hoses. The rubber hoses are rigid and won't budge. Any suggestions? I've attached a picture to below to show where we were having difficulty.

Lastly, what do people typically use to remove their engine? I bought a 2 ton hoist today from Harbor Freight, but the arm isn't long enough. It's just over 4' from the edge of my boat to the center of my engine, but the arm on the hoist only reaches 4' (or just under), so it is a couple of inches too short. We've considered calling a tow truck, but they're charging $125 to pull the engine, and will charge another $125 to call them out to put it back in. Buying a gantry crane is out of the question - way too much money.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[JASinIL2006]

I built a gantry to hoist my engine... Some lumber and a chain hoist, and I was good to go.

Those rubber boots can be difficult. I found the most helpful thing was to inject soapy water (using a large animal syringe) between the cast irom pieces and the rubber. It also helps to warm them up with a hair dryer or with rags dipped in very hot water. For me, though, the soapy water did the trick.

 

[bruceb58]

We are also having trouble removing the exhaust hoses. The rubber hoses are rigid and won't budge. Any suggestions?

Remove the riser first. Once the bolts are off, you twist the riser 90 degrees and pull off. Basically impossible to do without doing that.

In the rear, you just undo the nuts for the rear motor mount. No need to take the bellhousing off in the boat.

 

[Bondo]

We are also having trouble removing the exhaust hoses. The rubber hoses are rigid and won't budge. Any suggestions? I've attached a picture to below to show where we were having difficulty.

Ayuh,..... Get yerself a Hose Pick, 'n pry loose the rubber coupler,...

Lastly, what do people typically use to remove their engine? I bought a 2 ton hoist today from Harbor Freight, but the arm isn't long enough. It's just over 4' from the edge of my boat to the center of my engine, but the arm on the hoist only reaches 4' (or just under), so it is a couple of inches too short.

How 'bout puttin' the lift into the back of a pickup for more height,..??

Got a garage door to rig a chain falls on,..?? a tree,..??

 

[Benny67]

No Title

Build one of these....not the sexiest looking device but it got the job done. I lifted my 470 with ease.

I also got an electric lift from Harbor Freight for $120

Don't forget to get a load leveller for an extra $35 it makes the world of difference in moving the motor around to re position back on the motor mounts.

Total investment just to lift the motor for 45 min while I changed a leaky exhaust pipe that I got on ebay for $40.00 = $ 240.00

 

[JASinIL2006]

Benny67, don't sell yourself short! That's a handsome-looking gantry!

 

[Benny67]

thanks...I was hesitant to post it cause of the crap I have strewn all around the boat..I try to keep the boat stuff as neat and clean as possible out of respect for my neighbours who put up with looking at that beast 5 months out of the year.

 

[GIJeff]

Hey all! Some feedback and questions on the project so far -

We ended up using an all-terrain forklift to pull the engine out. My buddy had a few lying around his job site! That bad boy made it really easy and we successfully removed the engine.

We didn't bother removing the exhaust before pulling - we just carefully guided the engine out and the hoses separated in the process. Worked well.

I've had starter issues in the past, so I think I will just replace the starter while I've got it out. Is it necessary to buy a "marine" starter for the Mercruiser, or can I just purchase an equivalent for a vehicle for a likely-cheaper price? I didn't know if it had to be marine specific due to the possibility of getting water in it.

We may have goofed. When replacing the rear seal, we actually removed the retaining ring, not realizing we could remove the seal without removing the ring. We did not have a replacement gasket since I had not planned on removing the retaining ring. We did use a lot of black RTV gasket maker to reattach the retaining ring to the block, and placed in a new rear seal. Do you guys think the black RTV will be sufficient? I already installed the new oil pan, so I'm hoping I don't have to remove the oil pan to remove the retaining ring and install a new gasket, but will if I have to. The engine is still out, so it is an option. Just a pain in the butt to redo it.

Is it necessary to paint the new oil pan? Painting is just to help prevent rust, correct? It is aluminum, so it shouldn't rust? I only use this in fresh water, too. It isn't too late to paint it, just curious if I need to spend the time doing so.

Thanks!

 

[Bondo]

I didn't know if it had to be marine specific due to the possibility of getting water in it.

Ayuh,.... Ya need a Marine rated starter, not because of water, but because they're explosion proof,....

The motorbox is a confined space with potential gas fumes,....

 

[Rick Stephens]

We didn't bother removing the exhaust before pulling - we just carefully guided the engine out and the hoses separated in the process. Worked well.

Note: Exhaust Y-pipes cost between $400 and $600. They are made of aluminum and are attached to the boat waaaay down at the bottom with 4 3/8ths bolts that are only about 5 inches betwixt them. Pulling a motor, and replacing a motor with the risers attached to the manifold is a great way to find out how purty a new Y-pipe is, exactly how much they cost, and how expensive they are to ship. It is a LOT cheaper to buy a couple of riser to manifold gaskets and pull the risers off first.

No need to paint the pan.

 

[bruceb58]

Definitely paint the new pan. The slightest nick will be where it starts rusting. When I replace the pan, it gets a new coat of primer and many coats of paint.

I had a pan rust out from a nick...never again!

I agree that is kinda foolish to pull a motor with risers on. I think the manifolds should be removed as well to reduce the weight depending on how hard they are to get to.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Definitely paint the new pan. The slightest nick will be where it starts rusting. When I replace the pan, it gets a new coat of primer and many coats of paint.

I had a pan rust out from a nick...never again!

He has an aluminum pan.

 

[bruceb58]

He has an aluminum pan.

I missed that part!

 

[GIJeff]

Thanks for the responses, all. I went back and checked my exhaust pipes and looks like I got lucky, no damage. Will make sure when I put them back in I do it a bit differently. Thanks for the heads up.

Any thoughts on using black RTV gasket maker on the oil deal retaining ring since I didn't have a gasket purchased for it? Do we think that'll be sufficient, or should I pull everything back apart and put in a gasket?

 

[Rick Stephens]

'fraid I don't have an opinion on the RTV, never tried that.

 

[chenta]

check and make sure the nose of the crankshaft isn't bent. I bent mine after using a bottle jack on my 350 chevy Tahoe and took forever to find the leak.