Proper Oil Switch Location?

tank1949

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As far as I know, there are two locations to install oil pressure or sending units on Chevy V8s. One is located near the distributor on the block and the second located near the oil filter, recessed to where it is almost impossible to examine for leakage or replacement on some boats (like mine) where fuel tanks extend towards the stern. There is very little room. I can personally attest to an oil switch failing near the 1 filter and leaking almost all engine oil into my bilge. I am installing Sierra three way electrical oil pressure cut-off switches in addition to the oil pressure switches and oil sending units. My engines require electric fuel pumps. My plan is to connect them all to a brass "T" coming out of the top part of the block, connected to a ss 1/8 npt nipple going into block and block- off the oil passages near the oil filters. In the future, all three would be more easier to access. If anyone out there has experienced problems with this idea, please respond. Thx!
 

m_steiger

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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

The port on the on the block close to the distributor is where the OEM oil pressure sending unit goes. The port on the side of the block right above the the oil filter is where the OEM oil pressure switch goes. Be careful connecting both to a "T" fitting because the sender is a little heavy and I have heard of people stress fracturing a brass with to many things on it. If you do, figure out a way to add support. Remember to block off the oil passage on the side of the block if you go that route and dont use any teflon tape on any of the hardware so the sender/switch have a good path to ground.
 

tank1949

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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

The port on the on the block close to the distributor is where the OEM oil pressure sending unit goes. The port on the side of the block right above the the oil filter is where the OEM oil pressure switch goes. Be careful connecting both to a "T" fitting because the sender is a little heavy and I have heard of people stress fracturing a brass with to many things on it. If you do, figure out a way to add support. Remember to block off the oil passage on the side of the block if you go that route and dont use any teflon tape on any of the hardware so the sender/switch have a good path to ground.

These concerns have come to my mind too. But, I simply do not have any room to work on units near oil filter. Proline didn't think this out in advance for future maintenance. Removing port oil filter is an ordeal too. My nipple is ss but sched 40 . I prefer schedule 80 "insurance" for potential stress cracks. I don't know 80 is available. I am almost considering bias steel. I learned the hard way on teflon tape.


thx!!!!
 

tank1949

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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

The port on the on the block close to the distributor is where the OEM oil pressure sending unit goes. The port on the side of the block right above the the oil filter is where the OEM oil pressure switch goes. Be careful connecting both to a "T" fitting because the sender is a little heavy and I have heard of people stress fracturing a brass with to many things on it. If you do, figure out a way to add support. Remember to block off the oil passage on the side of the block if you go that route and dont use any teflon tape on any of the hardware so the sender/switch have a good path to ground.

Installing 1/8 SS 316 schedule 80 (not 40) nipple to hang at least two and maybe three senders/switches. I know teflon will restrict continuity, but I don't know if there is anything else to put on pipe threads to stop leakage????? Please advise if there is some "dope" to paste on threads! The person who I purchased boat from had removed oil alarm switch wires from switch and switch went bad on starboard motor and I almost ran out of oil after switch started leaking. NOT GOOD. The port motor is impossible to visually examine or remove oil /sender switch because of fuel tank blocking easy access. I am trying to remmedy too many problems associated on this boat. Tabs were also woefully too small. Tabman has helped on this matter.
 

Bondo

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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

Installing 1/8 SS 316 schedule 80 (not 40) nipple to hang at least two and maybe three senders/switches. I know teflon will restrict continuity, but I don't know if there is anything else to put on pipe threads to stop leakage????? Please advise if there is some "dope" to paste on threads! The person who I purchased boat from had removed oil alarm switch wires from switch and switch went bad on starboard motor and I almost ran out of oil after switch started leaking. NOT GOOD. The port motor is impossible to visually examine or remove oil /sender switch because of fuel tank blocking easy access. I am trying to remmedy too many problems associated on this boat. Tabs were also woefully too small. Tabman has helped on this matter.

Ayuh,.... Any pipe dope paste, Merc's Perfect Seal, or Form-a-gasket, #3 will work just Fine,...
 

RogersJetboat454

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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

I know teflon will restrict continuity,

Not really...
If you use tape, the threads will cut through the ribbon, and make metal on metal contact. Personally, I usually use the liquid teflon (permatex version comes in a white plastic jar with a brush under the lid), sold at most auto parts houses.
 

tank1949

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Apr 4, 2013
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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

Rogers,

I have experienced poor if not complete lack of continuity using tape. Perhaps I should have not covered ALL of the threads but only ones after the first couple or so.
 

Silvertip

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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

If you are worried about stressing the nipple (as you should be), then build a "manifold" which is fed by a single line from the oil pressure port. You can then add as many elements to it as you have room for in the manifold. You might even add a mechanical oil pressure gauge for periodic under hood checks.
 

tank1949

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Re: Proper Oil Switch Location?

If you are worried about stressing the nipple (as you should be), then build a "manifold" which is fed by a single line from the oil pressure port. You can then add as many elements to it as you have room for in the manifold. You might even add a mechanical oil pressure gauge for periodic under hood checks.


That's agood idea!!!! Come off with copper flare to make sure good continuity feeding a manifold bolted on block?????

THX!!!!!!!!
 
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