Project Mr. Yuk

[Walleye King]

Well I decided to name it exactly what it is, YUK!! I finally got the rest of the deck out and find all the stringers are shot, the transom is rotted as well. It's an 82 ISA Imperial 17' Fish and ski, runabout, or what ever it is suppossed to be, but it is bad.<br /><br />The motor that I was told would run, all you get is a click, not sure if it's the starter yet or the motor is froze. Killed about 10,000 black carpenter ants, 5 big bee and mud wasp nests that sent me diving off the boat on more than one occassion, and I have a pile of foam and rotten wood on a tarp that I have no idea what to do with. I did not remove the stringers yet.<br /><br />Right now, in between the headache from this and the urge to puke when I'm out there looking at this, I have concluded to do a jason job. I will have to pull the motor and stern drive so I may as well paint it while I have all the weight out of it.<br /><br />The BIG question I have and when reading a ton of posts on this topic no where did I notice this issue addressed/replied to. Keeping the hull true was mentioned, but how do you do that? I have no where to do this except on the load rite trailer that it came with.<br /><br />Reading how others showed concerned about keeping the hull true now has me concerned. Would it be better to do one stringer at a time? Would that help keeping it true? Is there another easier way? What about painting it? Better to turn it upside down and do it that way?<br /><br />I ended up getting it for $300 because it wouldn't start. Cheap, but it may not have been a good deal after all! If it caught fire right now I don't believe I would be upset. Probably would be but I doubt it.<br /><br />Any and all advice will be appreciated, as well as any recommendations on books etc would be great.<br /><br />Thanks!!

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Project Mr. Yuk

The trueness of the hull was a huge concern to me. Before I tore it down, I could sight along the hull and see the hooks and bows from sitting on the rollers with no proper structure and a lot of weight from wet foam and all that. My hull sat for so long on the trailer after I stripped it that it returned to its proper trueness just from its memory. I glassed my stringers from the outermost to the middle two. Since it was still cool out (60s), it took several hours to cure, so the hull stayed true. It is commonly recommended to not do a stringer job on the trailer, but unless you can get an original mold to set the shell in, or spend half your life building a complicated dry dock, I see no reason why you can't do it on the trailer. Just make sure the boat is on the trailer straight and level, and pay attention while laying up the stringers so you don't get a warp in the hull. When I would finish a stringer, I got my carcass out of the boat asap so my weight wouldn't affect the hull shape. Anyway, good luck....

 

[jomac]

Re: Project Mr. Yuk

Walleye -- Jasons right the hull will pretty much true itself after removing everything then letting it settle, I've always done a six point setup when rebuilding one, four carry most of the weight 1- center of keel at transom, 2 at both other edges of transom, 4th at just at the point where keel starts to rise to the bow(large 12"or better pad), then two on the outer chines(edges) just where they start to turn up towards bow (just for balance Not holding any weight) you can do this with it setting on the trailer, Just make sure mid section(across beam) and transom are level! NOTE: takes measurements from bow to transom& across beam at midsection,mark where there taken, those will give you peace of mind when starting to rebiuld Good Luck stay in touch

 

[Walleye King]

Re: Project Mr. Yuk

Okay I have found a few things out here on my stringers with a better inspection, need to get the pic's developed so I can put them on the web page. The center of the hull is almost all gas tank and there is no stringers, 10" from to where I can measure to top of closest stringer. Those stringers are 5-1/2". and are not fiberglassed at all, looks as though they were traeted lumber. <br /><br />I was told that the deck was never changed and other than the damage from the carpenter ants the stringers were solid and soaked but not rotten, the ants did the bulk of the damage and that was pretty severe.<br /><br />To keep or get back the hull to make sure it's true, do I need to remove the engine and stern drive first, or can I go ahead and start restringing? I believe I am going to use what looks like what was in there and that was a treater 2 X 6 or should I use the plywood? Getting ready to go buy the stuff!<br /><br />I want the deck in and and the boat flipped by mid week, bottom sanded and primered before Saturday. With some co-operation from the weather I can do it.