Process for changing boat trailers?

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,740
Today I tried dipping my boat in the Ohio river...

View attachment 399842

(We did dip farther, but this is the one pic I happened to take during the attempts)

shop/marina with the appropriate fork truck /lift? At over 1000lbs (per the manufacturing tag) it's not something I can just push off and crib with wood...
I launch and load 1600-1800# boat with a front wheel drive mini van.
A wide bunk trailer will let the boat sit lower than any roller trailer.
Anywhere from 6 to 10 inches lower.

Your Montego is the coolest fiberglass boat that Starcraft ever made.
But yes, the high sides and windshield supports make it a pain to get into.

If you get a new trailer, install a trailer bow ladder and enter the boat over the bow. There are several different styles, with hand rails, available on the market.




61myKNWGNmL._AC_SL1024_.jpg


For what it's worth, I have chained a 16' I/O runabout to a tree, then pulled the trailer from beneath it, letting the boat sit on 3 stacks of tires. Then backed the new trailer under, as far as possible, and winched it on the rest of the way.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,178
I don't know if it'll work for you, but this has worked for me on numerous occasions and with different boats.

And Roscoe posted while I was typing. 🤪 I use the same technique.

Here's the process from a few weeks ago with my 1997 Mirrocraft aluminum fish n ski.

Strap the boat to the tree, unhook the winch strap and slowly pull forward. I had a tire under the stern for the boat removal.
20240606_103430.jpg

20240606_103528.jpg

20240606_103703.jpg

To get the boat onto the new trailer, line it up with the tree. When I slowly backed up, most of the boat just climbed up onto the trailer and we started winching after that.

And lastly, when winching became difficult, we put the tire between the tree and the boat. I'd back a little, we'd winch a little and the tire cushioned the boat against the tree. Only winched a couple inches at a time but it worked well.

And I'm definitely happy with the lower, wider trailer!
20240606_105806.jpg

20240606_111405.jpg

20240606_113938.jpg
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 30, 2023
Messages
221
Do what you want, it is your Truck, Boat and Insurance

... and likewise, I found more things in research showing that the extra tongue weight is the issue. No good for long distances, and while I'm geographically close to the ramp, that requires descending a winding hill that BBQ'd my brakes the one time I tried it with the boat. May have to find another parking lot closer to the ramp that isn't literally a ramp itself (the main ramp parking is literally part of the ramp structure) and re-hitch there as the hill I can safely descent is a 55mph highway on the other side of town.

I launch and load 1600-1800# boat with a front wheel drive mini van.
A wide bunk trailer will let the boat sit lower than any roller trailer.
Anywhere from 6 to 10 inches lower.

Your Montego is the coolest fiberglass boat that Starcraft ever made.
But yes, the high sides and windshield supports make it a pain to get into.

If you get a new trailer, install a trailer bow ladder and enter the boat over the bow. There are several different styles, with hand rails, available on the market.




61myKNWGNmL._AC_SL1024_.jpg
Exactly what I was thinking initially. I have a lot of tongue post free on the current trailer so if I didn't think it'd interfere with the winch post, I could install a bow ladder like that to it easily.

I don't know if it'll work for you, but this has worked for me on numerous occasions and with different boats.

And Roscoe posted while I was typing. 🤪 I use the same technique.

Here's the process from a few weeks ago with my 1997 Mirrocraft aluminum fish n ski.

Strap the boat to the tree, unhook the winch strap and slowly pull forward. I had a tire under the stern for the boat removal.
View attachment 399872

View attachment 399873

View attachment 399874

To get the boat onto the new trailer, line it up with the tree. When I slowly backed up, most of the boat just climbed up onto the trailer and we started winching after that.

And lastly, when winching became difficult, we put the tire between the tree and the boat. I'd back a little, we'd winch a little and the tire cushioned the boat against the tree. Only winched a couple inches at a time but it worked well.

And I'm definitely happy with the lower, wider trailer!
View attachment 399875

View attachment 399876

View attachment 399877
Saw that original post before making this thread, didn't think it was doable with as massive of an I/O as my boat has. I do have some junk tires and a big (but junky) tree in my back yard...
 

FLATHEAD

Captain
Joined
Dec 29, 2002
Messages
3,183
I launch and load 1600-1800# boat with a front wheel drive mini van.
A wide bunk trailer will let the boat sit lower than any roller trailer.
Anywhere from 6 to 10 inches lower.

Your Montego is the coolest fiberglass boat that Starcraft ever made.
But yes, the high sides and windshield supports make it a pain to get into.

If you get a new trailer, install a trailer bow ladder and enter the boat over the bow. There are several different styles, with hand rails, available on the market.




61myKNWGNmL._AC_SL1024_.jpg


For what it's worth, I have chained a 16' I/O runabout to a tree, then pulled the trailer from beneath it, letting the boat sit on 3 stacks of tires. Then backed the new trailer under, as far as possible, and winched it on the rest of the way.
Roscoe , Nice rig. I have a very similar set up as yours except my Garmin is more to the starboard side. I can still climb over when need be, but I’ve been tossing around the idea of steps. Really like the looks of yours👍
 

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,095
I have the same issue with shallow water ramps. I used a 24" extension just for launching the boat, then removed it for highway travel. Then tried a 12" extension and that works well at the one ramp I mostly use. The 12" extension causes no issues towing other than some extra rattles, but no handling issues at all. I do carry that 24" extension just in case I need it one day, but would not tow on the highway with it....
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 30, 2023
Messages
221
I have the same issue with shallow water ramps. I used a 24" extension just for launching the boat, then removed it for highway travel. Then tried a 12" extension and that works well at the one ramp I mostly use. The 12" extension causes no issues towing other than some extra rattles, but no handling issues at all. I do carry that 24" extension just in case I need it one day, but would not tow on the highway with it....
Go figure... went ahead and removed the extension tonight when I got home from an afternoon/evening trip.

May leave it attached on the way home from the ramp tomorrow since there is a hill I can go up that isn't fast. See how that does.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,740
Roscoe , Nice rig. I have a very similar set up as yours except my Garmin is more to the starboard side. I can still climb over when need be, but I’ve been tossing around the idea of steps. Really like the looks of yours👍
Ah, don't I wish it was mine. Thats a photo from the seller on amazon.

Here are mine, 18' Starcraft and 14' Mirrocraft, on the way to Canada.

1SNOW - 1 (2).jpeg
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,089

Cautionary Considerations for Weight Capacity​

One other important factor to consider when shopping for a hitch extender is weight capacity. The manufacturer should provide weight ratings for the extender, including a gross trailer weight capacity and a tongue weight capacity.
Remember, you must always abide by the lowest-rated component in your towing system.
Additionally, it is important to consider the leverage placed on your receiver hitch and vehicle by heavy cargo. As a general rule, the use of extenders (and hitch adapters) can reduce the tongue weight capacity / vertical load capacity of your vehicle’s receiver hitch. Extenders under 12” long reduce load capacity by 25%, and extenders over 12” reduce load capacity by 50%.
 

ratdude747

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Messages
221
Was successful at launching. Extension and using the right part of the ramp made it more or less easy. Docking was an issue, but that's for my other thread.

That said, while it drove around town and up the hill no problem with the extension (did not go down hill with it!), it did make yard parking at home trickier due to turning radius going from bad to worse. As relatively easy as re-hitching is on flat ground, from now on I'll likely only use the extension near the ramp.

I did spray the bunks with silicone spray before trailering... did have to shove the trailer a couple of times to get the boat on (as I didn't go far enough trying to make sure I didn't go too far)... but no problem since on the winch is hooked, the hard part's over.
 
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jimmbo

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May 24, 2004
Messages
13,447
Lengthening the Trailer would have made Backing Up Easier, adding to the Hitch, will certainly make it more Challenging
 

ratdude747

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Lengthening the Trailer would have made Backing Up Easier, adding to the Hitch, will certainly make it more Challenging
Fair enough... but hitch extensions I could get locally for cheap. Trailer extensions, not so much (about an order of magnitude different cost, and AFAIK nobody local to me or my parents in New Albany, IN sells them).

That said, the hitch extension worked. But I will keep my eyes out for deal on a trailer extension.
 

Lpgc

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258
Stating the obvious, an easy way to swap trailers is have a friend tow the new empty trailer to the water and tow the old trailer back home lol.
 

ratdude747

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Stating the obvious, an easy way to swap trailers is have a friend tow the new empty trailer to the water and tow the old trailer back home lol.
Which only works if you have good and well equipped local friends... ;)
 

airshot

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I don't see any difference backing up with my 12" extension in place....I have to backup over 300 ft to reach my barn door from the road thru a big S curve around the garage. Can't notice any difference, but have not tried the 24" extension!!
 

ratdude747

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I don't see any difference backing up with my 12" extension in place....I have to backup over 300 ft to reach my barn door from the road thru a big S curve around the garage. Can't notice any difference, but have not tried the 24" extension!!

The issue I had (and honestly, the extension didn't factor much) is that I got stuck trying to drive around and park the trailer beside my car hauler in the back yard. Same mistake I made at gas stations a couple of times on the first outing. Ended up resuming parking it in the front yard as IIRC it's legal in my town (no HOA) and I do get compliments on it (unlike the rest of my vehicular fleet!).
 

airshot

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The issue I had (and honestly, the extension didn't factor much) is that I got stuck trying to drive around and park the trailer beside my car hauler in the back yard. Same mistake I made at gas stations a couple of times on the first outing. Ended up resuming parking it in the front yard as IIRC it's legal in my town (no HOA) and I do get compliments on it (unlike the rest of my vehicular fleet!).
Nothing beats practice....first time backing up for the season is always a tough one. I learned to backup a trailer at age 13, now 74....lots of practice!!
 

ratdude747

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Nothing beats practice....first time backing up for the season is always a tough one. I learned to backup a trailer at age 13, now 74....lots of practice!!
Understood. You'd think owning three trailers I'd know better... but the other two hardly see use. One was my FIL's old car hauler that he sold me for dirt cheap, the other is a cheap street-legal 4x8 that was used on the highway exactly once so I could use my '95 Ford Ranger to haul a bunch of large body parts and a bed liner for my F150 from Oklahoma (F150 hit a deer two weeks before a truck show)... I do use that trailer with my lawn tractor on occasion though.
 

airshot

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Understood. You'd think owning three trailers I'd know better... but the other two hardly see use. One was my FIL's old car hauler that he sold me for dirt cheap, the other is a cheap street-legal 4x8 that was used on the highway exactly once so I could use my '95 Ford Ranger to haul a bunch of large body parts and a bed liner for my F150 from Oklahoma (F150 hit a deer two weeks before a truck show)... I do use that trailer with my lawn tractor on occasion though.
Often people learn bad habits to start and it becomes difficult to change. After my neighbor watched me a few times, they ask for help backing their own trailers. First thing I tell them us to stop turning around to look out the back ! Learn to use your mirrors....I have taught numerous folks to backup in less than a half hour without turning around. Once mastered, it becomes quite easy as your brain doesn't get messed up looking backwards.
 

roscoe

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Out of business now, but https://extendahitch.net used to make 9' and 12 extensions .

An extra tongue attached under the trailer tongue, pinned in place. At the launch, disconnect hitch coupler, pull tow vehicle ahead, pull out extension and attach to tow vehicle. Then launch, load, stow extension, and drive home.

cr-w-600-h-300-jpg.320966



cr-w-600-h-300-jpg.320964



Shouldn't be to hard to make.
 

ratdude747

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Out of business now, but https://extendahitch.net used to make 9' and 12 extensions .

An extra tongue attached under the trailer tongue, pinned in place. At the launch, disconnect hitch coupler, pull tow vehicle ahead, pull out extension and attach to tow vehicle. Then launch, load, stow extension, and drive home.

cr-w-600-h-300-jpg.320966



cr-w-600-h-300-jpg.320964



Shouldn't be to hard to make.

On second thought, such a thing may not work so well with my trailer due to the way the tongue is built. Instead of having a single tube tongue, it has two tubes stacked most of the way down; the lower tube stops short and only the upper tube carries the actual ball receiver. I'll fetch a picture later.

Such an extension bar would have to either have the ball on a riser (to allow the bar to fit under the lower tube) or have a bar small enough to fit inside the lower tube (likely too loose/weak).

Based on that I'll probably stick with the hitch extension I have since it does seem to work and is compatible with the current trailer.
 
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