Pretty sure I found at least one of the leaks.

Cuppy420

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Somebody put this in the tank with the wrong threads and zero pipe dope! We're basically rebuilding the entire fuel system from the tank to the motor. I think the other leak is possibly at the fuel gauge sensor and we are going to get a new one. The fuel gauge doesn't work because of it so it will kill two birds with one stone1000006249.jpg
 

Cuppy420

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These two pieces go together and the threads were completely stripped and barely in. It wasn't the correct fitting. It also didn't have any kind of pipe dope on it1000006249.jpg
 

Cuppy420

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Pretty sure that was one of them. The other one in my belief is the seal around the fuel gauge sending unit
 

rolmops

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Pay attention when you screw the thing back in. It is a good idea to put that brass screen back on there. If the fitting you put in there is a flare fitting , it can go in dry. Otherwise use a teflon based pipe dope.
There is a good chance that the seal around the fuel gauge is leaky.
When you do anything at all with the fuel tank of a boat, make sure that your power source is disconnected at the battery. And make sure that the tank and the fuel gauge itself are properly grounded. One static electricity spark there, can send you to kingdom come.
 

Cuppy420

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Pay attention when you screw the thing back in. It is a good idea to put that brass screen back on there. If the fitting you put in there is a flare fitting , it can go in dry. Otherwise use a teflon based pipe dope.
There is a good chance that the seal around the fuel gauge is leaky.
When you do anything at all with the fuel tank of a boat, make sure that your power source is disconnected at the battery. And make sure that the tank and the fuel gauge itself are properly grounded. One static electricity spark there, can send you to kingdom come.
Good thing I drained the tank lol. Good advice thank you
 

cyclops222

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A drained tank is very dangerous. It is full of explosive fumes.
With gasoline fumes filling the empty tank. They ALSO need to be SAFELY removed. Not do it right ? BOOM
 

Cuppy420

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A drained tank is very dangerous. It is full of explosive fumes.
With gasoline fumes filling the empty tank. They ALSO need to be SAFELY removed. Not do it right ? BOOM
And with that I think I'll unplug the batteries LOL
 

99yam40

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what are you calling a coil pack?
maybe the CDI?
and how did that cause all plugs to be black?
 
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Cuppy420

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what are you calling a coil pack?
maybe the CDI?
and how did that cause all plugs to be black?
The things that go to the spark plugs. I changed them out but talked to another mechanic for over a half hour yesterday. It's good that I changed those out but that wasn't the problem my fuel pump has a busted diaphragm and that's why it's running extremely rich and I'm getting fuel in the oil. I already ordered the new fuel pump and I'm going to change the oil again.
 

99yam40

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The things that go to the spark plugs. I changed them out but talked to another mechanic for over a half hour yesterday. It's good that I changed those out but that wasn't the problem my fuel pump has a busted diaphragm and that's why it's running extremely rich and I'm getting fuel in the oil. I already ordered the new fuel pump and I'm going to change the oil again.
so, have you verified the fuel pump is leaking and is the problem.
or just guessing again?

I do not see how a 4 stroke would run too rich if the pump diaphragm leaked.
a 2 stroke yes I could see that happening, but not a 4.
how is the fuel getting into the combustion chambers?
 

Cuppy420

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so, have you verified the fuel pump is leaking and is the problem.
or just guessing again?

I do not see how a 4 stroke would run too rich if the pump diaphragm leaked.
a 2 stroke yes I could see that happening, but not a 4.
how is the fuel getting into the combustion chambers?
All I have is the word of a verified mechanic. He told me there isn't any other way fuel could be getting into my oil other than the diaphragm being ruptured. My spark plugs are brand new and they are completely black where they should be clean. That tells me it is running too rich and it's not burning the fuel off because the fuel is going into the oil. No I'm not guessing I'm going by the word of a verified mechanic who's been doing this for 30 years. He told me a few things to do which I have done and now I'm just waiting on a fuel pump and he guaranteed the work. As long as I could do it and I feel pretty confident it shouldn't be about a 20 minute job
 

99yam40

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a 2 stroke fuel pump gets its pulse from the crankcase itself,
if there is a leak in the diaphragm, that leaking fuel hits the crankcase and is sucked into the combustion chamber of the cylinder that delivers the pulse to be burned with the other fuel.
I do not see how that would hit all cylinders.
and that does not happen on a 4 stroke, any fuel that goes into the crankcase just dilutes the oil.
good luck, but I do not think the fuel pump is your problem
 

Cuppy420

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a 2 stroke fuel pump gets its pulse from the crankcase itself,
if there is a leak in the diaphragm, that leaking fuel hits the crankcase and is sucked into the combustion chamber of the cylinder that delivers the pulse to be burned with the other fuel.
I do not see how that would hit all cylinders.
and that does not happen on a 4 stroke, any fuel that goes into the crankcase just dilutes the oil.
good luck, but I do not think the fuel pump is your problem
Then why would a mechanic of 30 years who was brutally honest with me for at least 20 minutes say that the only way (and I stress the word only) that I have fuel in my oil is a ruptured diaphragm? I'm also doing a super soaking out the bowls and a strong mixture in my tank of seafoam.
 

Cuppy420

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a 2 stroke fuel pump gets its pulse from the crankcase itself,
if there is a leak in the diaphragm, that leaking fuel hits the crankcase and is sucked into the combustion chamber of the cylinder that delivers the pulse to be burned with the other fuel.
I do not see how that would hit all cylinders.
and that does not happen on a 4 stroke, any fuel that goes into the crankcase just dilutes the oil.
good luck, but I do not think the fuel pump is your problem
I'm trying to avoid rebuilding the carbs at all costs if possible because that's going to cost me a lot of money whether I do it myself or whether I let somebody do it it's going to be about a $800 job if I have to do it. I'll try everything else first and in the end if I have to redo the carbs then so be it.
 

99yam40

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you need to think about what could cause all 4 cylinders to run rich.
prime start system not shutting off,
or someone has jacked with the carbs and have wrong settings or wrong jets is all I can come up with
 

Cuppy420

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you need to think about what could cause all 4 cylinders to run rich.
prime start system not shutting off,
or someone has jacked with the carbs and have wrong settings or wrong jets is all I can come up with
I don't have a prime cold start system. At least I don't think so I'm not even really sure what that is. It's a 2003 bass boat with a 50 hp motor
 

99yam40

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Then why would a mechanic of 30 years who was brutally honest with me for at least 20 minutes say that the only way (and I stress the word only) that I have fuel in my oil is a ruptured diaphragm? I'm also doing a super soaking out the bowls and a strong mixture in my tank of seafoam.
also running too rich or too cold will cause fuel to get in oil, because not all fuel is being burned in the cylinders it leaks by the rings.
rea dup on motors making oil and what causes it

I don't have a prime cold start system. At least I don't think so I'm not even really sure what that is. It's a 2003 bass boat with a 50 hp motor
I mentioned this prime start system to you in one of your other threads you started on this motor problem.
does your motor have a choke to help starting cold?
read up on what those 2 devices are on #1 & #3 carb are, and how they work
 
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Cuppy420

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also running too rich or too cold will cause fuel to get in oil, because not all fuel is being burned in the cylinders it leaks by the rings.
rea dup on motors making oil and what causes it


I mentioned this prime start system to you in one of your other threads you started on this motor problem.
does your motor have a choke to help starting cold?
read up on what those 2 devices are on #1 & #3 carb are, and how they work
As far as I know I just push the key in and that's supposed to be the choke according to the previous owner
 
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