Preloading without the rolling dial torque wrench

beruken

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Is it possible to accomplish the preload on the drive shaft gear set with only a standard torque wrench or should I have a shop do it? Not worth the $$$ to invest in the dial wrench for this one time (hopefully) effort. All I was doing was to change the seals so no new bearings.

Alpha one Gen 2
 

Scott06

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I would say no unless you have one like this.
Torque Wrenches, 1/4" Square Drive, 0 - 80 in.-lbs. and 0 - 9 NM Torque


i used this to set 12-16 in lb rolling torque on pinion bearings
 

dubs283

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Is it possible to accomplish the preload on the drive shaft gear set with only a standard torque wrench.........

Alpha one Gen 2

No

You'll never know if the proper preload has been set. 3-7 lb/in for used bearings

Borrow a dail/rolling torque wrench from auto parts store/tool library?
 
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muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
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A few thoughts;
No you can’t use a ”clicker” must be a beam or dial.
Mechanics are taught to never use a torque wrench in the lower 10-20% of its range, depending on quality. Yes there is a difference between harbor freight and snap on. Always check the specs on precision tools you purchase.
At one of the MerCruiser schools I attended we used a Craftsman 0-30 inch pounds beam style. When they closed that school and I started going to a different school they used a 0-150 inch pound dial style, that Mercury sold through their special tool catalog. When I asked the teacher about using this tool, he said he wouldn’t recommend it. But “it’s what we are supplied with” and recommended buying a 0-30 dial or beam.
A lot of under paid overworked/flat rate marine techs wouldn’t bother to check this rolling torque when just doing seals. The good ones do because that’s how you find worn bearings that passed the visual inspection.
Are you planning to replace the yoke seal? If so that requires resetting the rolling torque on the double bearings.
 

Scott Danforth

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I use twine wrapped around the housing and a calibrated inline scale
 

rustybronco

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If you have a local ring and pinion shop they should be able to set the bearing preload as well.

60-0-60 (2.5, 5, 7.5, 10)
 

tpenfield

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The rolling torque wrenches have gotten a bit pricey, but loosing a top-end gear set isn't exactly cheap either. Years ago, I bought the Seekonk Rolling torque wrench . . . I recently found it when I was cleaning the garage. :LOL:

Get the proper torque wrench or have a reputable shop do it.
 

Dubed

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The rolling torque wrenches have gotten a bit pricey, but loosing a top-end gear set isn't exactly cheap either. Years ago, I bought the Seekonk Rolling torque wrench . . . I recently found it when I was cleaning the garage. :LOL:

Get the proper torque wrench or have a reputable shop do it.
I borrowed one from the shop that rebuilt my motor. They were kind enough to let me borrow it. I brought the outdrive t his shop and used one of his benches, and vice. Anyways, perhaps you can find a shop that will just set the torque for you... Cant be too much $$
 

beruken

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Thanks. I got a wrench and tried to do it myself but seems the roll binds and jumps as i'm turning and it's hard to gauge since the measurement is so small. I'm reading ~4-6.5 in-lb as I turn. Not sure if the bearings are bad or if it's the rest of the components just moving around. Tried holding everything in place but... It moves smoother out of the vice.
 

dubs283

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Use a large (3"-4") worm gear clamp with a wide band around the bearing pack to keep it stable while checking rolling torque

Do you have the u-joint assy/bearing pack suspended in the retainer wrench while checking torque?
 

beruken

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Use a large (3"-4") worm gear clamp with a wide band around the bearing pack to keep it stable while checking rolling torque

Do you have the u-joint assy/bearing pack suspended in the retainer wrench while checking torque?
Yes. The whole thing turns if I don't hold the bearing pack. If I hold the assembly horizontally as it would be in the drive the bearings roll a little smoother without the weight pulling down on them. I'm going to pull the bearings and inspect. Either rusty or just bad.
Thanks.
 
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muc

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This means you either didn’t lube the bearings or bad bearings.
This measurement is done with the u-joints and input shaft hanging straight down.
 

beruken

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This means you either didn’t lube the bearings or bad bearings.
This measurement is done with the u-joints and input shaft hanging straight down.
Yup, I did lube. I started to remove the bearing and it freed it up where it rolled smoother. After tightening it was less restrictive but still a little inconsistent in the roll. Probably time to replace. I think I got it pretty close to spec and we'll see how it works out. I assume I have to eval the fit with shims prior to assembly in housing since I tweaked the bearing? I know if they were new I would, but I suppose I can guage the feel after assembly the upper housing and shaft.
 

rustybronco

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Yup, I did lube. I started to remove the bearing and it freed it up where it rolled smoother. After tightening it was less restrictive but still a little inconsistent in the roll. Probably time to replace. I think I got it pretty close to spec and we'll see how it works out. I assume I have to eval the fit with shims prior to assembly in housing since I tweaked the bearing? I know if they were new I would, but I suppose I can guage the feel after assembly the upper housing and shaft.
New bearings and races used to repair my A1G2 and the rolling torque varied 1 to 1.5 inch/lb. They were lubricated as well.

Shim depth should not change when replacing seals and or bearings. It can't hurt to double check if you have the proper tool(s).
 
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