Power trim stalling motor (hpdi )

[N1NE1]

(02 Yamaha 200 hpdi )This could be completely unrelated but ..So at the end of last season I was having an issue with my motor not passing water through the pisser tube . Cleaned it out everything works there now . The rectifier was jammed up with some dry salt. Ever since then when I use the power trim switch on the controls when the motor is running it nearly kills the motor or stalls.it works fine when motor is not running . I checked for any pinched wires around the rectifier and fuse box, nothing. If I use the switch on the side of the motor I have no issues at all even while running. I tried checking the block to see if it was shorting and came up with nothing. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated before I look into this soon with boating season coming up.

 

[99yam40]

Sounds like the T&T is pulling the voltage down.
clean all battery cable connections and make sure your battery is load tested and good

 

[N1NE1]

Sounds like the T&T is pulling the voltage down.
clean all battery cable connections and make sure your battery is load tested and good

If I use the trim switch on the side of the motor it’s perfectly fine , only when I use the one on the controls .

 

[99yam40]

that does not make sense to me.
Does the T&T work from both switches?

You might try to measure the battery voltage while hitting each of the switches to see if there is a difference

 

[N1NE1]

that does not make sense to me.
Does the T&T work from both switches?

You might try to measure the battery voltage while hitting each of the switches to see if there is a difference

Yes there is a switch on the side of the motor and one on the throttle control. Yes it’s confusing me too

 

[Chris1956]

The PTT switch on the motor is likely powered directly from the starter solenoid on the engine. About 2' of wire which is pretty well protected from the elements and accessible for inspection.

The control mounted PTT switch is powered by the boat harness positive wire, or perhaps a dedicated power wire in the harness, at the control. Then the power needs to travel back to the engine, to power the PTT. The circuit paths are quite different. Also, boat harnesses are usually a fixed length. Any leftover cable is coiled and tossed into the bilge. You might check it for bad insulation.

In summary, the control mounted PTT switch needs to pull about 3A of power thru the 25-30' boat harness twice, to energize the PTT relays. You might use an ohmmeter to see where the resistance in the circuit lives.

 

[99yam40]

The PTT switch on the motor is likely powered directly from the starter solenoid on the engine. About 2' of wire which is pretty well protected from the elements and accessible for inspection.

The control mounted PTT switch is powered by the boat harness positive wire, or perhaps a dedicated power wire in the harness, at the control. Then the power needs to travel back to the engine, to power the PTT. The circuit paths are quite different. Also, boat harnesses are usually a fixed length. Any leftover cable is coiled and tossed into the bilge. You might check it for bad insulation.

In summary, the control mounted PTT switch needs to pull about 3A of power thru the 25-30' boat harness twice, to energize the PTT relays. You might use an ohmmeter to see where the resistance in the circuit lives.

he said they both raise and lower the motor ,but the one on the control causes the running outboard motor to mess up.
Not the T&T motor