Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

[Loudo]

I have a 1988 Evinrude 25 hp manual start. Starts and idles fine, "gallops" at higher revs. Repair check-in guy was sure it would be the fuel pump, but they say it's the ignition module. I don't see "ignition module" listed on any parts diagrams...is it the same thing as a "power pack?"

Also...they need to remove the flywheel to replace the ignition module. They can't get the flywheel off, have broken two of the special pullers used for this. They want permission to try with a standard puller which may break the flywheel, in which case they would need to replace the flywheel. They're looking for a used flywheel in the event I approve of this risky procedure. I don't wish to quiz them about this and imply I am questioning their ability, but does anyone have any advice they might appreciate? Thanks.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

I'd assume they mean power pack but i don't think it is under the flywheel. The coil and sensor are though.

I guess they are wanting to use a three legged puller that hooks over the rim of the flywheel . The flywheel is not really designed for that sort of treatment. If they have broken a harmonic puller then its pretty tight so there's a big chance of breaking it. If they have broken the pullers themselves they were pretty poor ones so I guess they have broken the bolts. I hope that was not because they were not using high tensile ones!

You are right to ask questions IMHO if you are not happy.

I cant comment on their diagnosis but I'd want to be pretty sure about it before breaking the flywheel.

 

[karlow1]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Take a look at my post, "I'm stuck".
I have just been just there and done that!:redface:
Good luck

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

3 jaw puller? a BIG N O !!!!!!

The proper tool for the job, if they cannot get it apart without breaking it then I'm not so sure that they should be working on it. Period.

 

[Loudo]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Thank you, gentlemen! I appreciate your help on this.

I share your skepticism about using a puller that pries on the edges of the flywheel. It's difficult to believe this would have greater success than the proper puller which puts the force closer to the center where it should be. I'll find out if these guys have been applying solvent and waiting, tapping here and there. I'm also curious about specifically what part of their puller has been failing. It's a shop and they don't get paid much for tinkering so I can understand why they would approach this differently than a guy who has the benefit of a little time.

If I choose to bring the boat home and work on that flywheel myself, can I just rent a harmonic balancer from the local rental yard or is there really something unique about this genuine OMC flywheel pulling tool? Also, do I need a strap wrench to keep the flywheel from turning?

Thanks again.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

You should have no problem with a hired harmonic puller but the correct grade for the bolts is important. Grade 8 are recommended

 

[Loudo]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Update: I visited the repair shop, turns out they have been breaking the bolts, nothing else. I looked at their bolts, they didn't look like high strength bolts to me, and I asked if they had considered using higher strength bolts. They just mumbled that those were the bolts the puller came with and shrugged. I'm guessing that they were more motivated in getting this engine out of their shop rather than putting a little extra effort into it, resulting in their desire that I allow them to break the flywheel and pay for a new one. I paid them for the time they had into it and hauled my boat and motor away.

 

[BigB9000]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

the puller dosnt come with with fine threaded bolts eather....

retap/thread maybe?

 

[Randybeall]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

You did the right thing. I am a mechanic (auto) and really get upset when I see some of the things that "Bubba" does to cars because someone called him a mechanic. Do it right, usuallly with the correct tool, or step back. There are jobs that other tools can be substituted on with safety and no damage to parts, but that needs to be carefully thought through before it happens. Obviously these guys did not have a factory shop manual which stipulates the bolt grade, I hope you will give them the due reference if anyone asks. You could probley buy the puller, bolts and a shop manual for what you paid them to mess around. Shop manual also gives specific instructions for testing the ignition system, if you follow the instructions you can likely fix it yourself.

 

[clanton]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

You can use a Snap-on puller, should have 3 bolts, the OEM bolts are above grade 8. Whatever you use, put the pressure on the flywheel spray Blaster on the end of crank, let set, keep putting pressure on the flywheel, a little at a time. No heat.

 

[Loudo]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Well, I'll give a recap of the resolution of this problem in the hopes that it can help someone else. I bought a $20 gear puller from Sears and 1/4" Grade 8 bolts from the hardware store. Used a biiiiiiig cheater bar, liquid wrench, tapping here and there. Over the course of a couple weeks of reefing, tapping, and cursing all I accomplished was to snap two of the bolts just like the marine repair shop was doing. So I went back to the hardware store and bought some 5/16" Grade 8 bolts, NF thread. I drilled out and retapped the holes in the flywheel. I was using a cheater bar more than two feet long. I got it very tight, then tapped with my 3 lb. hammer on the end of the puller center bolt a little harder than before. Not whaling on it, just some pretty smart smacking. Shortly, it went *tnk* and the flywheel was free. Then I had a beer.

Given the short length of the contact surface between the flywheel and the crankshaft, I can't believe there was that much resistance.

 

[clanton]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Looks good to me.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

But what of the original problem which was to cure a touch of the "gallops" by replacing the "ignition module".

 

[karlow1]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Becareful when installing the upgrade CDI system. On my engine, part of it did not clear the magnets on the inside of the flywheel. I did not determine that untill I broke that plastic cam thingy. Now I set and wait for another part so that I can find out if it's fixed or back to the drawing board!

 

[Loudo]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Well, Vic, I'm glad you asked about the original problem. I suppose my plan is to call one of these local mobile marine repair folks I see advertised on Craigslist and describe to them that my motor was diagnosed with needing a new power pack and I've removed the flywheel and am ready for them to stop by and perform the repair. I always hate to pay someone to do something I could do myself if armed with a little knowledge. If it was a matter of simply ordering some parts and installing them without a bunch of adjustment required afterward of which I am ignorant, I'd lean toward doing it myself. If it's more complicated than that and involves the use of testing meters and so forth, I'd rather give the job to a pro and avoid unpleasantness. I note that the power pack looks pretty easy to install...bolt it in and reconnect all the wires. However, I'd like to confirm the original diagnosis anyway. I'd hate to spend a few hundred dollars and find the first time I return to the water that my problem wasn't solved. I can buy a new power pack for $130...the original marine shop was going to charge me $400 for the job.

Any advice?

 

[Loudo]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Oops...I forgot to add that I found out my motor is a 1989, model #625RLCEM.

 

[clanton]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

You should also check the charge coil while you have the flywheel off. Special tool aligns the new parts to clear the flywheel. or use a 6 inch machinest ruler to align the parts.

 

[clanton]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

The flywheel must be on to check the output voltage of the charge coil and pack.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

I don't know how many times I have posted this, but a shouldered stripper bolt is the correct bolt for the job. That flywheel is supposed to be put on with 105 ft.lbs. of torque, it is not going to just lift off. So now that you have it off, it has to be put back on. That is going to take a special flywheel wrench, and a torque wrench. Somebody is going to come back with jam the flywheel with a screwdriver, or stuff a rope down the spark plug hole, don't do that

 

[Vic.S]

Re: Power Pack vs. Ignition Module?

Now you have told us the correct year we understand why it was necessary to get the flywheel off. The powerpack of a 1988 model is not under there!

I reckon that the problem has been diagnosed and that a new power pack will fix it but it's your call and you have good reasons for not being totally confident about the previous people.

As you realise the new unit has to be positioned properly and the flywheel nut has to be tightened properly when the job is done.

Clanton will I hope explain how to use a 6" rule to align the parts!

Model number begins with a "E" not a "6" BTW