Pontoon Hardtop

[Crappie Jalopy]

I want to eliminate the (2) bimini tops on my pontoon and go with a hardtop, (7'-4" x 18'-4").
I have a (23') Tri Toon w/ (2) biminis that zip together.
I live in southern Arizona and the hot sun penetrates right through a bimini.
I've customized (1) 16' pontoon and (2) (16') hulled boats w/ biminis before, with complete enclosures. They were like floating cabins that I could stay on the boats for lengths of time as a fishing boat or fishing/hunting boat.
I'm brainstorming my design, which will suit my needs.
The question is how to I raise and lower the top. I've got a simple idea to just hand pump a hydraulic jack to raise and lower the roof, sliding up on (6) permanent posts. The lifting point would be a single position, centered on the inside of the roof structure, that would distribute the roof load, not heavy, as it travels up or down. The (6) permanent post tops would be at (11') from the ground.
I'm going to fabricate it myself with help from my talented friends.
I know there are lot's of MacGyvers out there that like these types of projects. I'd appreciate hearing about anyone who has tried this.
Thanks!

 

[DougsMessyGarage]

If you are thinking of raising and lowering on a regular basis, it might be worthwhile to look at either a Hi-Lo or pop-up camper for inspiration. Likely a pop-up camper could be purchased and stripped to supply the lift mechanism and possibly the hard top. The Hi-Lo camper would provide more of a hardsided style which I get the impression you are looking for.

 

[ahicks]

Is there really a need to raise and lower this top? I've had a 10' top on my boat for quite a while, and it's been "up" the entire time. This would include the twice annual trip to and from the boat landing for seasonal launching/pulling.

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

If you are thinking of raising and lowering on a regular basis, it might be worthwhile to look at either a Hi-Lo or pop-up camper for inspiration. Likely a pop-up camper could be purchased and stripped to supply the lift mechanism and possibly the hard top. The Hi-Lo camper would provide more of a hardsided style which I get the impression you are looking for.

Somewhat.
It's hot when the fishing is good.
I'll insulate the top, (1") closed cell, with canvas sides.

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

Is there really a need to raise and lower this top? I've had a 10' top on my boat for quite a while, and it's been "up" the entire time. This would include the twice annual trip to and from the boat landing for seasonal launching/pulling.

Your comment is interesting about leaving it up, not to be lowered.
I'm looking at that.
Thanks

 

[ahicks]

Your comment is interesting about leaving it up, not to be lowered.
I'm looking at that.
Thanks

Mine is just a sq. alum. tube frame, maybe 1.25", bows on 2' centers, with the same alum. skin as used on RV's. It IS just about keeping the sun off of you. Amazingly, it's holds SE Mi. snow load really well.

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

Mine is just a sq. alum. tube frame, maybe 1.25", bows on 2' centers, with the same alum. skin as used on RV's. It IS just about keeping the sun off of you. Amazingly, it's holds SE Mi. snow load really well.

I've changed my mind. I'm going to make it a permanently up hard top.
I'm using (1") dia. aluminum tubes on the roof (low gable). Probably (2') o.c. trusses. I'll have small gussets at all hinged points (posts to roof).
I too will be skinning with light weight RV skin, roof and ceiling.
I'm using aluminum posts (3") Sq. (6). Connected at the eaves and gable ends with (3") aluminum Sq. tubes.
I'm going to insulate with (1") ISO board (closed cell). It's light weight and is (7R's) per inch.
The summer heat here burns right through a bimini canvas top.
I have (8) existing bimini sunberlla side walls with windows and doors that I will retro to fit the new top.
I'm a (35) year refugee from northern Wisconsin, now living in southern Arizona.
I remember the snowstorms and the cold Lake Superior breezes!
Happy Trails!

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would look at something heavier than 1" aluminum tube. more like 1-1/4 square tube. you will want something in the 16 gauge or heavier wall.

 

[ahicks]

I don't know first hand how much or how often it snows there, but if it doesn't snow, 1" tubing should be fine to support that alum. roofing.

Why the insulation?

If you're concerned about the heat reflecting downward from the bottom of the top, maybe you're considering the wrong color alum skin? Ours is a light grey, and heat radiation has proven to be a total non event even on the sunniest days on ours.

You do want to install some foam tape or something between your rafters/bows and the alum. outer skin to minimize vibration.

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

I don't know first hand how much or how often it snows there, but if it doesn't snow, 1" tubing should be fine to support that alum. roofing.

Why the insulation?

If you're concerned about the heat reflecting downward from the bottom of the top, maybe you're considering the wrong color alum skin? Ours is a light grey, and heat radiation has proven to be a total non event even on the sunniest days on ours.

You do want to install some foam tape or something between your rafters/bows and the alum. outer skin to minimize vibration.

An insulated roof will keep the metal roof from radiating the heat down.
I'll be using white colored roof sheeting to reflect the rays.
Very good point on the vibration! I'll add that to the todo list.
There are many 105+ degree days on the lake. You can't get low enough in the boat when the blast furnace of the roof is cooking your brain.
I know it sounds crazy how hot it can get under your roof. It might sound crazy to fish or just be on the water recreating in that heat. You get used to the heat by taking all the precautions. It's a mental game whether it's freezing or frying.
During the hot weather, you fish early in the morning and start again in late evening and into the late night.
The fishing in Arizona is fantastic!

 

[HotTommy]

This is the only picture I have of my DIY hardtop. I'll describe some elements below.

The verticals are 1x1 square aluminum tubes. The frame for the top is 1x1.5 aluminum L. The top is four 4'x8' aluminum corrugated sheets. The verticals are bolted to the fence at the deck and the upper rail with stainless bolts. They were positioned so the bottom bolts could be removed and the top would pivot forward and down to lower for towing. I made temporary vertical supports to hold the top at the desired lower height and keep it from bouncing while underway. When fully up there are diagonal supports from the port aft vertical to the fence, and from the starboard forward vertical to the fence. One helps resist forces pushing the top aft and the other forward. .... I found the top put a lot of side-to-side strain on the fence so I reinforced it with diagonal square tubes to the deck near furniture where they weren't tripping hazards.

One advantage of this design is that it has a very small cross section when moving forward to help with top speed. I have towed it as far as ten miles with the top up at speeds below 40 MPH.

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

Thank You! Thank You!
Your post has helped so much!
I've had many ideas about my hard top design and you have to think and re-think all of them to make sure you've got the one that's going to work.
I will definitely be re-thinking my design and probably be using some of your design on my top.
Do you have any pitch or slope built into your roof?
I've wondered if I really need to slope or pitch the roof because a boat usually rides lower in the stern.
I'll be asking more questions to you about your design as I study it more closely.
More pictures up close would help a lot.
Thanks again!

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

How long is your deck?
What is the size of the top?
Thanks!

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

I figured your top is 8'x16' +/-

 

[HotTommy]

Thank You! Thank You!
Your post has helped so much!
I've had many ideas about my hard top design and you have to think and re-think all of them to make sure you've got the one that's going to work.
I will definitely be re-thinking my design and probably be using some of your design on my top.
Do you have any pitch or slope built into your roof?
I've wondered if I really need to slope or pitch the roof because a boat usually rides lower in the stern.
I'll be asking more questions to you about your design as I study it more closely.
More pictures up close would help a lot.
Thanks again!

My boat is 24; long. The top has no slope. It can't slope AND fold down as the verticals have to remain parallel whether the top is up or down. ... I have a correction. The verticals were 1x1.5" aluminum tubes. ... And a few more details. The bolts through the verticals at the top of the fence at at the top frame were secured with stainless steel bolts and Nyloc nuts. This allowed them to be loose enough to lower the top without the risk of having the nuts vibrate off. At the bottom of the verticals there was no way to access the backside of the fence, so I installed aluminum rivet-nuts into the fence. ... The position of the verticals has to accomodate three things: 1) Supporting the full length of the top; 2) Being conveniently aligned with the fence at both the top and bottom of the fence; and 3) Being clear of the horizontal supports of the top frame when the top is pivoted down to the lowered position. ..... All the main support hardware was 1/4" diameter. ... The long L beams that formed the sides of the frame for the top were single pieces 16' long and 1.5x2" tall. It's important to have the 2" dimensiion vertical to minimize droop. The horizontal L pieces were 1.5x1.5". I used machine screws with nyloc nuts at critical connections (e.g., corners) and self tapping screws in other places. .... The two diagonal braces were 1/8 x 3/4" aluminum about 3' long. They don't have to be thick because they only resist pulling forces. Of course they have to be disconnected to lower the top.

When I was younger I could raise and lower the top solo on a good day. It would be much safer with a helper. It also helps to mount stops on the lower fence to keep the verticals from rotating past their stopping points when the top is being raised into position. Otherwise the top can pivot past the full up position.

 

[ahicks]

That IS a nice top!

Just wanted to add that I would be pretty cautious about leaving the upright bolts loose. I've seen way too many with badly wallowed out holes caused by the incessant movement of wind and wave action.

Loosen them when you need to. Otherwise, keep 'em pretty snug! -Al

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

Thanks for the information.
It's been a big help.
Re-drawing my plans
Looking forward to posting the pictures of my top.

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

Is that an Air Force "Star" I see on the side of the boat?

 

[HotTommy]

Is that an Air Force "Star" I see on the side of the boat?

Yep. I'm a retired AF pilot and I keep the boat at an Air Force recreation area during boating season. I bought that old boat for next to nothing about ten years ago and did a major restoration. One problem was that even after painting the fences, the remains of the original decals showed through. I settled on the scheme you see as it covered all the old decal areas. .... And it was the only boat like it on the lake.

 

[Crappie Jalopy]

Thank you for your service......Sir!
I'm a flight line crew chief, F-100, F-105 & F-111
How about that.
Can't wait to hear what you flew.