PLEASE HELP ASAP charging question

heypawpaw

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 12, 2016
Messages
111
I would recommend using wires to the switch for motor, and run separate positive and negative wires from the battery to fuse panel for accessories.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,902
Hey Sam ....don't post that Clymer info as you can have more than 12V on yellow wires. It depends on if all the windings are exactly the same as more winding will put out more voltage. It needs to read anything under 12V check stator
 

clemsonfor

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Messages
1,011
Alright so after several more hours of very complete and thorough testing I amI am beginning to believe that I do have an actual issue but not a charging issue. Instead of listing my page full of test results which are all good I will just Sum it down to saying each component tests correct. While running I did have 7 volts ac to each individual stator lead and 15. 7 between leads . While running my positive wire at terminal red wire at terminal red 12. 4 volts DC at idle. It did increase to 12. 7 volts DC at higher RPM .Amongst turning on my LED flood lights, ship-to-shore radio, and my neon underglows, the dash voltmeter dropped again to under 10 volts .HOWEVER... When putting my leads Direct on to the battery post, running at idle I read 12.6ish volts, and it only dropped to about 12. 2 voltsDC with all accessories on . Either this 1974 6amp stator just cannot keep up with all of modern-day Electronics, or it is indeed charging I'm just not reflecting the right voltage on my Dash voltmeter. Now I cannot understand why the battery reads a different number that the dashes voltmeter, even though the dash is wired direct feed from the battery post?? I am beginning to think a a relay feeding my Dash Electronics would possibly be helpful . I know my wiring is not perfect or professional (and I'm still not done completely after restore) but everything is wired correctly with ample gauge wiring and and tight .

My boat does similar to yours. I have my electronics isolated from the starting battery. My panel has an LED volt meter in it. it is fed by like a 10 gage wire which is plenty for the distance and the minimal stuff I use. You have voltage drop in the wires and the distance just drops the voltage. My dash meter will read lower than a multi meter on the battery itself and then the one that really makes me wonder is the dash digi meter will read say 12.5v with my fm radio going at a pretty loud volume and the basic depth finder on. But the hummingbird will read say 12.1 on the screen and there is just a few feet of wire between the two, I guess its the angel hair pasta thin wires that supply the depth finder with its voltage that lead to the massive drop that it shows? It is annoying cause after many hours of stuff being on the battery gets low and the depth finder starts hitting the low voltage alarm and I have to keep it really low for this. Like it may be saying 11v but the dash digi panel meter says like 12.3
 
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