Re: Piston Replacement Merc 140 4cyl
Update:
Just finished the 1st 4 hrs on the water of the 20 hr recommended break-in on the rebuilt motor. No problems, leaks or adjustments! Engine was started 1st time yesterday. Fired the first time and ran strong.
Only needed to adjust-fine tune timing, re-torqued head and adjusted lash lifters before on water break in. Also changed oil and filter-cheap insurance.
Ended up having head re-built-valve job, replaced 1 piston, tappet and push rod. Re-ringed and replace rod bearings remaining pistons. Also used 240 grit ball hone all bores. Motor only has approx. 700 original hours and was running strong prior to the valve seat failure. Therefore, further rebuild was not required.
Observations:
This web site was critical to the success and substantially reduced the learning curve on the project!
Suggestions:
Currently using the break in procedures listed in this site as they are marine specific.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=248452
Outdrive removal and install-required engine removal:
Made a stand with wheels and purchased an alignment tool on Amazon as suggested on this site. Pulling the drive is no problem. The stand and tool are required-helpful for the re-install. Only took ? hrs and that was because I had to re-pull the drive as a washer was left on the bell housing! Too many things to line up (U joint spline, shift arm and shifter foot) and this is where the stand pays off. Proper alignment of the gimbal bearing is obvious.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=420930&highlight=install+outdrive
Oil pan:
Marine oil pan gaskets are very expensive. 1 piece silicon is approx $80 while the less expensive 4 piece cork was still $50! I used the 4 piece cork and did a lot of research on this. Straightened pan flanges and flattened minor dimples. Lightly used a flat file to confirm level. Used old school Indian Head gasket shellac on the cork sections to pan-let dry overnight. This keeps the gasket from moving during install. Black Permatex in the 4 corners-rubber to cork. Also added a thin layer of wheel bearing grease on cork -block side-non Sealer sections. The grease causes the cork to swell and results in a better bonding surface.
Recommend pan bolt torque specs in Cylmers and Merc Serv Tech manual #13 appear to be for new silicon gasket with metal spacers! Set my ? torque wrench to above specs and watched my cork gasket deform very quickly. Re adjusted to 20 inch lbs as this was the minimum setting on my wrench. This still produced minor deformation but was acceptable. The key is to adjust the torque wrench to your cork gasket-not just to specs. Also used a criss- cross tightening pattern. The above resulted in a 1 time install with no leaks and no adjustments.
Hope this helps , Doug.