Picture of fuel lines/Primer Bulb lines for J25RLEDA

[jitterbug127]

I have a 1996 Long shaft Johnson motor. I have been having trouble with getting it to idle properly. I am starting to think I have fuel lines for the primer bulb going to the wrong places. I looked at the schematics from Crowley marine, and they aren't super helpful to say where all the fuel lines should go. I was wondering if anyone could post a picture or video of their motor with the manual primer to show me where the fuel lines go?

Thanks Rob

 

[Crosbyman]

10 hp 200 hp ??? mdl# ? vro electric primer ....?????

I am starting to think I have fuel lines for the primer bulb going to the wrong places.

did this engine ever work new to you. motor ?? hoses don'tmove around much

 

[jitterbug127]

Its a 25 HP 1996 Johnson.

J25RLEDA​

Just manual Primer.

New to me motor. It has started and run, but I've never seen it run right. I replaced all the fuel lines to exactly the way they were before.

 

[jitterbug127]

Primer

 

[jitterbug127]

Motor running

 

[Crosbyman]

Its a 25 HP 1996 Johnson.

J25RLEDA​

Just manual Primer.

New to me motor. It has started and run, but I've never seen it run right. I replaced all the fuel lines to exactly the way they were before.

yep... misssed one again :-( was that up on the original post or am i going blind ?

 

[jitterbug127]

I put in the original post in the title haha!

 

[jitterbug127]

Motor is still having some sort of fuel issue, and I'm having trouble trying to decipher what the next step might be. I was going to double check all the fuel lines to make sure they go to the right places. The schematics on this one are a bit hard to tell.

 

[Crosbyman]

glad I am not blind the hoses can't be in the wrong place unless they got messed up by a previous owner. yet you say the motor has started an ran... if only a while.

Hoses can be bad /crumbling if original. concentrate on filters carb overall tank hose fuel pick-up, ignition !! timing cndensers points etc.... etc... check compression... all the basics
( a simple plug boot to frame resistance check may flag bad wires or coils HV secondaries)

I can't see hose routing being the problem

 

[jitterbug127]

That’s the thing. I have replaced or it had the rest of this motor worked on.

The ignition system has been rebuilt. All new cdi, coils tested good,
120/120 compression, strong spark thst jumps a 3/8” gap. Brand new spark plugs, brand new fuel pump, all new fuel lines, new impeller and water pump housing, link and sync has been done, rebuilt carb with oem kit to factory specs. My work on this one has been really good and I actually had someone do the link and sync for me that knows what they’re doing (their work checks out). I paid good $. I still can’t get it to idle without dying. The fuel lines being routed incorrectly was on of the last things I could think of.

I’m stumped at this point.

 

[jitterbug127]

I’ve bought some motors just to work on, but this one is actually supposed to go on my fishing boat. I didn’t want to cut any corners and didn’t want to spare expenses to have a good reliable motor. I went above and beyond what I normally do to have her perfect.

 

[jitterbug127]

Friend of mine has same motor and sent me over some pictures...Good news I've got mine installed right. Bad news another problem to solve.

 

[airshot]

Even though fuel pump is new, have you tested pressure and flow ?? Have you tried l mount the primer ball when it stutters ?? Just some thoughts...

 

[jitterbug127]

Even though fuel pump is new, have you tested pressure and flow ?? Have you tried l mount the primer ball when it stutters ?? Just some thoughts...

Fuel Pump I'm still suspecting as the most likely cause since the fuel lines seems to be lined up properly.

The fuel pump does have fuel flowing through it. I have those clear fuel lines and can see gas getting where it needs to go. It will pump up good and hold firm for a strong start. Bulb then get a little weak. Ill squeeze the bulb and pump and motor will run stronger. If I keep pumping on the bulb it eventually will just quit running at idle either way. Bulb never really collapses like I've had bad fuel pumps do in the past. If bulb is 100% full and firm before i start motor... Id say only looses 10%-15% of its fuel capacity. Nothing very large. (i know this might not make sense, and its hard to explain).

My tank and bulb are both Moeller and the same ones i run all of my motors through. Fuel is 50:1 and mixed up well. My gas is a blue color. I ran the same tank and bulb on my mom's 15 hp motor when i went fishing for an entire day 2-3 weeks ago, so i have a hard time thinking my tank/hose/bulb are bad.

 

[jitterbug127]

Sites-WestMarine-Site

West Marine

www.westmarine.com

 

[jitterbug127]

This is the exact fuel pump I installed.

 

[jitterbug127]

quick question for the readers...is the video i posted in earlier thread working? I wanted to make sure it was to see motor run.

 

[Crosbyman]

your motor is likley dying from fuel starvation
since you have no needles to adjust (increse) the quantity of fuel fed in the low speeed cct of the carb. It is critical that the top air orifice jet be 100 % clean as well as the small drip chamber holes under the dimesize plug on top. that is where the idling fuel supply comes from .

make certain the back trhottle plate closes as much as possible so the vacum can suck the gas from the drip chamber

see old carb with needles and DRIP CHAMBER.
critical that the side channel allowing fuel to rise to the top is 100% clean see 48 hp LS side fuel route


if you simply spray some fuel mix in the carb when it is about to die you know it is not getting enough from the carb's low speed circuit .

 

[jitterbug127]

I will throw the carb back in the ultrasonic for another cleaning. Friend of mine I got motor from cleaned and rebuilt it with a OEM kit, I cleaned it again (hoping for improvement), and then the guy i took it too have link and synced also cleaned it for a third time. I think he also replaced the low speed needle . This carb in theory should be spotless with 3 people cleaning it, but i suppose anything is possible. I will look the carb over with the diagrams you have provided. This information is awesome to have on hand. Thank you so much!

 

[Crosbyman]

ok just to correct myself you do have a LS needle adjustment which you can try to open up to allow more fuel in the LS cct of the carb. this should help

remove it and blow carb cleaner in the passage reinstall close it shut gently and then open it CCW about 1.25 turns

blow all passages with carb cleaner and high pressure air. Small needle kits are avaible to poke all channels & orifices in case solid crud did not wash out .