Picked up a 86 Sting ray with a 120 HP/alpha 1 gen 1...was winterized. Noob questions

[ianbword]

I know this boat needed a starter before it was winterized and shrink wrapped which I already have ordered. I plan on doing a impeller and lower unit oil.

Can any one recommend gear oil and a impeller kit for the gen 1 alpha one? Maybe a good guide to do the impeller?

Asides from the normal stuff of pulling the plugs and lubing the cylinder walls a few times before attempting to start it anything you guys can think of? Changing the fuel if there is any left in it obviously and getting a new battery.

Thanks everyone cant wait to get it going.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I know this boat needed a starter before it was winterized and shrink wrapped

Did you winterize it or atleast drain everything ?

 

[Maclin]

Welcome Aboard!

When was the last time the engine ran? Sounds like it may have been several seasons ago. How do you know it needs a starter? Sometimes the "needing a starter" is just the "start"of finding other problems that caused the starter to fail.

Pulling the spark plugs would be a good first step, just to see if they are rusty or if any water comes out. Many times the reason "it needs a starter" can be from a hydrolock (water in a cylinder or 2) that was not diagnosed properly. Hopefully this one is just an old starter, but it is a concern, being able to fully diagnose.

If the plugs look more or less ok, then your list of things to start with seem appropriate. Always have water to the drive before cranking, drive all or most of the way down, just basic precautions. Old fuel can be a bugaboo, need to drain tank and carb, that kind of thing.

Good luck!

 

[ianbword]

I personally know the previous owner, he is a mechanic and a pretty damn good one. Even if there is an issues hes gonna be the one helping me with it lol.

It was winterized and then the starter was removed to be rebuilt but the place that does the rebuilding it got real shady and then shut down. He got a much bigger boat to salt water fish off and the little Sting Ray got forgotten about.

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

The Marine gear oil has special additives to help for any water intrusion -- I would suggest sticking with Mercruiser for that " Quicksilver high performance gear lube "


As far as the Impeller -- If the housing is scored at all its best to replace that also ( I usually just do both )


--
How old are the bellows ??? ( You can save some serious headaches by replacing those when over 5 years old )


also --

Check out this part of the forum that has a wealth of good Merc info. & look for a video from the very knowledgeable " Achris "

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...s/338200-miscellaneous-mercruiser-information

 

[ianbword]

The Marine gear oil has special additives to help for any water intrusion -- I would suggest sticking with Mercruiser for that " Quicksilver high performance gear lube "


As far as the Impeller -- If the housing is scored at all its best to replace that also ( I usually just do both )


--
How old are the bellows ??? ( You can save some serious headaches by replacing those when over 5 years old )


also --

Check out this part of the forum that has a wealth of good Merc info. & look for a video from the very knowledgeable " Achris "

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...s/338200-miscellaneous-mercruiser-information

Thanks for the tips and advice.

Stupid question is there a preferred weight for the gear lube I should be looking out for SAE90 maybe? Im sure about the bellows I will have to check it out. I found a local dealer that has a kit if it isnt included ill get one.

On the gaskets under the plastic housing on the water impeller do you recommend any type of silicone?

 

[thumpar]

Just look Mercury/Mercruiser/Quicksilver drive lube. I use the high performance which is synthetic and can be found at Walmart. I believe the weight is 90 but it only comes in the one weight so don't worry about that.

 

[Bt Doctur]

On the gaskets under the plastic housing on the water impeller do you recommend any type of silicone?

They go on dry and K-Y on the impeller

 

[ianbword]

Pulled the plugs and squirted a tiny bit of oil in each cylinder a few days ago. Might try to fire it up today or tomorrow.

Im having a hell of a time finding info on doing a water impeller on a gen 1 outdrive. Does anyone know of a vid or DIY on doing it for a gen 1 not a gen 2? I planned on a taking pictures and being very cautious of the seals but would love to have a heads up on what to do.

Thanks everyone!

 

[thumpar]

It's pretty easy to change. Just pay attention on the way the pump comes apart so that you can put things back in order. The kits usually have extra parts so just match up what you have. The trick is when you put the halves back together. Make sure the lower is locked in forward and the upper has the shoe straight. Don't lose the washer.

 

[ianbword]

Were kinda getting somewhere now...starter didn't need shims got lucky and only had to install it once.

Threw in some fresh plugs and attempted to get it to start. It was only kicking with starting fluid so time to diagnose my no fuel issues.

I pulled the hard line off the mechanical pump and cranked it over but didn't see anything coming out of the fuel pump. Pulled the vent tube off the fuel tank and still nothing. Im thinking either the pump itself is no good or maybe that check valve on the tank elbow is clogged.

Im having a hell of time getting the large vent hose off the fuel tank. I might have to invest in one of those hose hook tools. Trying to pull the tank out so I can pull up the check valve out of the tank and inspect the tube. I also need to check on the pump itself, I saw a tiny bit of old residual gas pumping out of it at first but nothing after that.

 

[ianbword]

So im almost ready to try to fire it up.

Carbs been rebuilt
New fuel pump,
Installing a fuel water separator tommorow
I will be changing the engine oil/filter
New marine battery
Siphoned whatever gas was in the tank out

So my question is...if I get lucky and it fires up with no issues, I will then change the outdrive impeller and oil. Where should I expect to see water exiting the engine? In the prop or transom area or both? 86 Merc sterndrive 120 alpha 1 gen 1

On the freak chance all of the oil leaked out of the outdrive (im a glass half empty kind of guy) will it do any damage running the boat in neutral on earmuffs to the drive? I suppose I could just pull the lower plug lol.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Save your self some work, shift into Fwd , pull the drive ,
Insert a cut washing machine hose in the water inlet and run the boat .
Make a stand from some 2 x 4 `s and ply , drain and remove the upper leaving the lower in the stand

 

[Bt Doctur]

On the freak chance all of the oil leaked out of the outdrive (im a glass half empty kind of guy) will it do any damage running the boat in neutral on earmuffs to the drive? I suppose I could just pull the lower plug lol.

And no doubt the fastest way to a new outdrive

 

[nola mike]

So my question is...if I get lucky and it fires up with no issues, I will then change the outdrive impeller and oil. Where should I expect to see water exiting the engine? In the prop or transom area or both? 86 Merc sterndrive 120 alpha 1 gen 1

Some from the prop, some from the relief ports on either side of the gimbal housing.

On the freak chance all of the oil leaked out of the outdrive (im a glass half empty kind of guy) will it do any damage running the boat in neutral on earmuffs to the drive?

Yes, you'll fry your drive. Everything but the prop spins when the engine is running, even in neutral. Don't forget to run it on muffs at all times, or you'll ruin your new impeller.

 

[ianbword]

Thanks guys ill be draining and refilling the oil in the outdrive before I attempt it.

 

[wahlejim]

my .02...

As someone mentioned before, remove the outdrive prior to starting and supply water through a cut washing machine hose. In older boats, it can help isolate issues between the drive and the engine. It is also much easier to do the water pump impeller this way so it should come off anyway. You can inspect your u-joints, gimbal bearing, etc. while it is off as well.

If this thing does fire up, resist the urge to rev the motor. I know it is tempting, but your water source may not keep up with water demand and you can cause serious damage. Save the reving for when the boat is in gear on the water.

 

[nola mike]

You can just pull the bottom screw to check for water and condition of oil, and then pull the top screw to check the level. If you're going to do the impeller, might as well just do the oil at that time.

Find your service manual here. All the info you need about just about everything.

 

[thumpar]

You will have to drain the lube to do the impeller so do both or just pull the drive. Don't fill the lube and try to run it without knowing the state of the impeller. If it is bad you will fry the flappers and other rubber parts in the exhaust.

 

[ianbword]

Well well well...guess I stand corrected about the whole winterization thing. Connecticut winters and a lack of proper storage strikes again lol. I finally was able to fire up the merc 2.5 over the weekend. I threw in a few gallons of gas mixed with startron and it did fire up but I had to cut it off as I found a nasty looking waterfall on the side of the block behind the exhaust manifold. My fears were correct as I saw a nice looking gash on the side of the block. Its way too big to patch imo and I would hate to run the risk of it exploding on the water. Not to mention one of the ports on the head is looking pretty damn rusty. On the plus side the outdrive impeller change went pretty smoothly lol.

So now im at a crossroads, keep going and find a used 120 HP 2.5 for next spring and swap it in myself? Hell I have a freshly rebuilt carb, new starter, new fuel pump and new battery to go with whatever motor I find. Or just cut my losses and sell it. The boat itself seems pretty solid asides from this issue. I don't mind doing the work and the 2.5 isn't exactly a hard motor to work on.

Im guessing a 3.0 wouldn't exactly bolt in now would it? In regards to swapping in a used motor (say I find a used 2.5 locally) asides from aligning the motor with the gimbal bearing is there anything else thats a huge PITA to do?