Overcharging 18 volts

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

Good job. That turned out to be a fairly easy fix.
 

Wonbigfish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
36
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

It may have been an expensive switch ($25.99) off the shelf. But it was a cheap repair for a change.

Wonbigfish
 

Wonbigfish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
36
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

Went to install a recomended a weather proof switch and noticed the old switch had been replaced with a 2 wire type. The harness to the switch has 3 wires gray, black & purple. The purple cut & unused. Should all three wires be used or can I go back using gray & black only.
Wonbigfish
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

I would try using the Black and Gray, since that's the way the switch that you're replacing was wired. The Kill switch stops the motor by shorting the ignition circuit to ground. All the Kill switches that I've seen only use two wires. One of the two wires (Black or Gray) should be the ground connection, the other wire eventually connects to the Black/Yellow wire at the CDM/coils. Under normal operation, the wires/connections on the Kill switch should read "open". To stop the motor, the wires/connections on the Kill switch should read "closed" or a short.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

Well yes and no. You can hook a tach up to the motor. Look at your rectifier/regulator. If it has a gray wire, coming off of it, that is the tach signal. Depending on your wire harness, it may be a different color at the dash. Sometimes it's purple, sometimes gray, I'm not sure on your set up.

Take a look at the unused purple wire under the dash. You should be able to follow the purple wire back to the motor. If the purple wire is not hooked to anything back at the motor, then you could it for the tach. If it is used for something, then you can run a separate wire from the motor to the dash for your tach.
 

Wonbigfish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
36
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

Installed switch only to find it didn't correct problem. Is the igniton switch the only culprit. If I reconnect black/yellow wire from harness motor shuts off. I replaced ignition switch maybe 2 years ago. But I guess it could go bad. The first one I replaced due to a broken key I couldn't get out.
Wonbigfish
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

Did you check the connections/wires on the switch that you just put in with a meter? Was it reading "open"? If it was reading "closed", it will ground the ignition system, shutting the motor off. Some of the replacement switches are generic and have multiple connections for both magneto powered ignition systems and battery powered ignition systems. The ignition kill circuit works exactly opposite between the two. Magneto ignition system requires the switch to be "open" for normal operation as in your Force system. Battery powered ignition needs the switch to be "closed" under normal operating conditions. If you use the wrong connections on the switch, it won't work correctly. Can you post a picture of the switch?
 

Wonbigfish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
36
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

I took switch out then started motor. When I plugged in Black/yellow wire it shut off. When I put wires together without switch and plugged in black/yellow wire it shut down again. Could problem be in ignition switch itself?

Wonbigfish
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

It's hard to say without checking with a meter. When you put the wires together, you are shorting the the ignition system to ground and disabling the ignition system. That's exactly what the "Kill Switch" does. If the motor runs with the two wires apart, and you can turn the motor off with the key, then your ignition switch is probably OK.

Again, you need to check the Kill switch with a meter. No getting around it. If your Kill switch has a lanyard with a little plastic clippy thing, you need to install the plastic clip and check the contacts/wires with a meter. If you read an "open" circuit, use those contacts. When you remove the plastic clip, you should then read a short on the same wires. When you remove the plastic clip with the motor running, it'll kill the motor.

The original purpose of the Kill Switch with the lanyard was a safety feature. You connect the plastic clip to the switch, and the other end to your belt or somewhere on your body. If for some reason you get thrown overboard, the lanyard connected to your body will pull the plastic clip off of the switch, thus killing the motor. Otherwise the motor will keep running and maybe run over you or just keep going leaving you stranded in the water.

If you read a "short" with the plastic clip installed, then that's just like putting the wires together and it won't work. Don't use that set of contacts/wires.
 
Last edited:

Wonbigfish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
36
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

I tried both open and closed circuit for kill switch. The ignition key still doesn't shut down motor. On another finding. When I was disconnecting battery noticed a small spark as if something is pulling power with everything turned off. Is this normal?
Wonbigfish
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

One thing I forgot to mention was that the Black/Yellow wire has to be connected to test the ignition switch. Kill Switch wires need to be "open". If the ignition switch shuts the motor down, then it's OK. If it still doesn't work, then either the switch is bad or there's a wiring problem.

If you get no spark with this set up (Black/Yellow wire connected, Kill Switch "open"), then the wire in the wiring harness that that you're disconnecting by the motor (which goes to the Kill Switch up front), is shorted to ground. Find that short.

That small spark when connecting the battery cable is most likely normal.
 

Wonbigfish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
36
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

I had motor running, then I let both wires to kill switch dangle open. Reconnected black/yellow wire & motor shut off. With kill switch wires clamped to gether and motor running I again reconnected black/yellow wire. It shut off motor again. I can't work on it till this evening. All the wire & cables apear to look ok but I will search again for a short.
Wonbigfish
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

Looks like somewhere that Black/Yellow wire is shorted to ground killing the ignition spark. Follow it as far as you can and look anywhere it might be pinched or insulation rubbed through and touching the block (Ground).
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

It would have been great to see some pics of the kill switch wiring connections assuming the other end of the black/yellow kill wire is fully connected to the engine terminal board. I wonder if a continuity test of the kill switch has been done and found to be correct, i.e. closed in the activated position (lanyard pulled) or open in the deactivated position (lanyard in place).
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

I forgot that on some of the later model Force motors they changed the Kill Switch from the type that uses the plastic clip to basically an On/Off switch.

Do you have a meter handy that you can use to take some resistance measurements with?
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Overcharging 18 volts

Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire from the coils/CDM harness. One side of the Black/Yellow wires goes to the coil packs (CDMs). The other side goes to the wiring harness. Check the resistance between Black/Yellow wire that goes to the wiring harness and ground (the engine block) Make sure the ignition key is in the "run" position, and kill switch wires disconnected and apart. You should read an "open" circuit. If you read any resistance between that wire and ground, there's your problem. When you turn the ignition key to the "off" position, or short the kill switch wire together, that's the only time you should read resistance between the Black/Yellow wire and ground.
 
Top