Outdrive Paint & Prep

Galvez83

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Oct 31, 2019
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I have been reading up on previous post but cannot seem to find the answer. I am preping my DP for paint. I do not have Alodine or Alumaprep. The outrdrive will be sanded for paint. I only boat in saltwater. I will try to keep as much of the factory paint as possible. The question is 2 fold....
  • what primer to use on bare aluminum (zinc or self etch)?
  • On scuffed but still painted parts, what primer to use?
All will be done with spray can. For the paint i would like to go with a Volvo Penta matched 2k paint and 2k clear....is that acceptable?
 
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BRICH1260

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Jul 6, 2011
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I`ve done mine for Fresh water. Used Zinc Chromate self etching as a primer and Volvo SX Silver as paint then sprayed Clear over that. it worked for me in fresh water, not sure if being in salt is different.
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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I have been reading up on previous post but cannot seem to find the answer. I am preping my DP for paint. I do not have Alodine or Alumaprep. The outrdrive will be sanded for paint. I only boat in saltwater. I will try to keep as much of the factory paint as possible. The question is 2 fold....
  • what primer to use on bare aluminum (zinc or self etch)?
  • On scuffed but still painted parts, what primer to use?
All will be done with spray can. For the paint i would like to go with a Volvo Penta matched 2k paint and 2k clear....is that acceptable?
I would look at an epoxy primer like PPG DP 90 yes the 2 k is good. yes the 2 k is good. I would look into the alodine and alumaprep as non fo the rattle can zinc primers made for this application I have used stick better than the factory stuff.

You dont have to use primer over the scuffed paint but if you are spraying something like the epoxy DP90 that can go right over. Find your local autbody supply house and tell them what you are doing they can set you up.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I did expensive primers and the Moeller rattle cans of zinc dichromate.

Both are OK, both work

Rattle can paint isn't as hard or good as rustoleum with a hardener.

My latest process is hardened rustoleum sprayed with a harbor freight gun top coated with a rattle can of clear for shine. See the later pages of the thread in my sig
 

Galvez83

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Oct 31, 2019
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Hi all, so went with rattle can 2k paint and clear. Since i dont have a spray guns and compressor i stopped by my local auto paint supplier and they mixed and prepped the paint. Will get to painting today if the weather clears up.
 

Scott06

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Hi all, so went with rattle can 2k paint and clear. Since i dont have a spray guns and compressor i stopped by my local auto paint supplier and they mixed and prepped the paint. Will get to painting today if the weather clears up.
Are they able to mix up paint and fill rattle cans ? If so that is great

I think you will find finishes from and automotive paint supplier will be more durable than the typical off the shelf rattle can. 2 k systems are much more durable. I painted my 1965 Pontiac about 30 years ago, car was covered with surface rust from sitting for over 10 years. Sandblasted and first coat was PPG DP epoxy primer have had very little bubble back of the corrosion . Certainly a different application but clearly the finish is much better
 

Galvez83

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Are they able to mix up paint and fill rattle cans ? If so that is great

I think you will find finishes from and automotive paint supplier will be more durable than the typical off the shelf rattle can. 2 k systems are much more durable. I painted my 1965 Pontiac about 30 years ago, car was covered with surface rust from sitting for over 10 years. Sandblasted and first coat was PPG DP epoxy primer have had very little bubble back of the corrosion . Certainly a different application but clearly the finish is much better
I spoke with paint guy and he advise to only go with the 2k rattle clear. He did mix up my paint rattle can as well, from a sample. Bell housing and trim rams are done. Its not work of art but as long as its protected i am good with it. Moving on to the outdrive and the transom shield.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Are you planning to use antifouling paint? Doesn't sound like it. If I didn't use A-F paint on my MerCruiser, it would have been all barnacles.

Zinc chromate is the best for bare aluminum. Most antifouling paints for aluminum recommend a good barrier paint to protect the aluminum. V-P paint is fine for that, as are most decent enamels.
 

Galvez83

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Oct 31, 2019
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Are you planning to use antifouling paint? Doesn't sound like it. If I didn't use A-F paint on my MerCruiser, it would have been all barnacles.

Zinc chromate is the best for bare aluminum. Most antifouling paints for aluminum recommend a good barrier paint to protect the aluminum. V-P paint is fine for that, as are most decent enamels.
No anti fouling. Boat is trailer kept
 

Donald0039

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So on a trailer there is really no corrosion to protect from. It's a matter of how much time and money you want to spend on painting the outdrive.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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If it were me, I would find some aftermarket paint that matches the V-P color, and a can of Zinc Chromate primer and sand, prime and paint outdrive at the beginning of the season. V-P, Merc and the others charge way too much for "factory" paint. Since he trailers the boat, he can repaint the OD after every trip that he rubs it off, if he desires.
 

vroom ZOOM

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Aug 15, 2017
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Here is my experience:
the alumiprep alodine is generally the best way to go, BUT...
Here is what I did last time to paint my seadoo jet pump nozzles (paint stuck really well)
1. Sandblast or clean up the corrosion REALLY well. Brass brushes only, no steel brushes as those could leave metal deposits which could rust. You could also buy a wet blasting pressure washer attachment really cheap and a bag of crushed glass. No dust, and cleans out the pitting quite well.
2. Fill pitting with JBweld and sand smooth.
3. I got some self etch primer from a local cdn tire. (basically the green stuff). I painted over the bare metal areas with it.
4. spray your favorite colour on. I prefer a single stage paint instead of BC+CC. Here is why: The single stage paint is basically a single layer of hardened urethane. If you scrape some paint off the front of your skeg for instance, I found that the BC layer is weaker, and the dynamic pressure of the water hitting the exposed BC wants to peel it off. Also worth mentioning that merc recommends painting with single stage as well (I think its deltron concept)
 
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