Outdrive Alignment

[easyloader]

I took off outdrive and couldn't get it back in.
I chec the alignment and the tool tool went all the way in but wasn't easy to tome out. I pulled up down and sideways on alignment tool and made the alignment worse. Now it won't go all the way in. Took a 1 inch pipe to figure out which way to correct alignment then hit alignment tool with 4lb rubber hammer. Did this repeatedly and only slightly moved gimebal.. Very frustrating.
Does anyone have any tips. I don't want to ruin spline.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Once you have aimed the gimbal - and it shouldn't become misaimed when you pull the drive - the gimbal is no longer a factor. From then on it is adjustment to engine up and down or transom and stringer rot that allows the motor to move around.

 

[easyloader]

Once you have aimed the gimbal - and it shouldn't become misaimed when you pull the drive - the gimbal is no longer a factor. From then on it is adjustment to engine up and down or transom and stringer rot that allows the motor to move around.

Okay. I want to at least get alignemnet back to being close. How do you get the gimbal bearing to gimbal?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

The gimbal bearing will move slightly in the casting but it’s not what causing the alignment tool to slide in or out hard. The motor mounts need to be adjusted either up or down depending on the marks you see on the tool. Put a light coat of grease on the stepped down portion of the tool. Insert it as far as it will go into the splines. Without rotating the tool, pull it straight out. If you see more spline marks on the bottom of the tool, lower the front Engine mount(s) slightly. Raise them if there are more spline marks on the top. If it’s off left or right, look for a bad or rotted motor mount. A bad motor coupler will also make proper alignment nearly impossible. Beating on the alignment bar to force it into the coupler can damage the coupler.....and they aren’t cheap.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Engine Alignment How To's:

engine alignment how to's

just got my engine alignment tool, here is where I am at ,dropped in engine measured engine mount bolts to put in approximately at same height ,the alignment tool does go in with a little wiggling should it slide in wtih no resistance or should it slide freely thanks for any advice

forums.iboats.com

 

[achris]

Okay. I want to at least get alignment back to being close. How do you get the gimbal bearing to gimbal?

Gimbal bearings explained.

Chris........

 

[QBhoy]

Great advice above. Often that the age old method using engineers marker blue is forgotten about. Shows high and low spots and other axial indicators too. Grease works too, as mentioned.

 

[easyloader]

I've warched the video and will give it a try. I was putting the alignment tool in to far when tryin to align the gimbal bearing.

 

[easyloader]

I bought a 1 inch galvanized pipe which fit inside the gimbal bearing.
this way I could rotate the gimbal bearing. It helped but still couln't get it to line up. Called mechanic and he said that gimbal will align when you put drive in and I probably didn't hit the drive hard enough to get it in. Either way I'll try to install it one for time. If it doesn't work I have an appointment with him in two weeks..

 

[nola mike]

A. The alignment tool will bottom out, you can't insert it too far.
B. Your gimbal bearing probably isn't out of alignment your engine is. Did you adjust the mounts at all?
C. "Not hitting the drive hard enough". You can hit the drive as hard as you want, but it won't align it.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Need a new mechanic..... you don't hit the drive hard enough....

Last time I installed a new gimbal bearing, I also was installing a different motor altogether, going from an inline to a V6. Meant everything was from scratch. To align the gimbal, I aimed it best I could, looking through the bearing to see where it pointed. Then, using the alignment bar, pried it close to pointing at the coupler as I could visually see. I was able to get the bar into the coupler a half inch or thereabouts, so first thing with the bar in coupler was to firmly strike the alignment bar on the end up, down, left and right with a 2 pound dead blow hammer to make it perfectly straight on to the coupler.... that's not a very big hammer. I have never touched the gimbal bearing since and have rechecked alignment a dozen times or more.

Once I had the gimbal bearing pointing at the coupler properly, I had to align the coupler/motor angle to the bar - the gimbal bearing is no longer a factor. My bar would only insert a little ways when I had just installed the new motor, so I had to raise or lower the motor until the coupler was straight to the bar, thus giving me equal marks on top and bottom. Pointing the gimbal bearing at the coupler did not change that. The motor needs to be raised or lowered, depending on how the marks look on the end of the bar. I know of people doing this first few times that spent hours jumping in and out. It does get easier as you learn how much to move front motor mounts up and down.

Make sure you make even changes on both sides or you'll end up having to start over by supporting the motor and equalizing the two motor mounts.

 

[achris]

Don't hit the drive hard enough to force it into an out of alignment engine coupler. Geez Louise, that mechanic needs shooting!

Chris....

 

[easyloader]

I should of said the mechanic said to kick the drive with your foot to get it in.
wither way all these responses are suggesting it's an engine alignment which I don't feel comfortable attempting even though it doesn't seem to hard.
I just want the dam drive back on. I'll update everyone in two weeks after visiting the mechanic.

 

[nola mike]

Don't miss the point here that the drive will go on if you force it on, but your alignment will still be off, which can lead to engine coupler failure. I'd be worried that your mechanic is going to focus on just getting the drive on, rather than fixing alignment. In fact, I'd just have him align it and leave the drive off so that you can check it...

 

[easyloader]

Don't miss the point here that the drive will go on if you force it on, but your alignment will still be off, which can lead to engine coupler failure. I'd be worried that your mechanic is going to focus on just getting the drive on, rather than fixing alignment. In fact, I'd just have him align it and leave the drive off so that you can check it...

I'll be with him when putting the drive on. I understand, don't get a bigger hammer, instead fix the issue. I've only had the boat for for a year and it's the first time taking off the drive. What would cause engine to get out of alignment?

 

[Rick Stephens]

What would cause engine to get out of alignment?

Usual answer is the transom or stringers are water logged and soft allowing the motor to sag.

Other components can be the issue, such as rear mounts failing or loose hardware. But most common is the boat is getting soft.

 

[easyloader]

Usual answer is the transom or stringers are water logged and soft allowing the motor to sag.

Other components can be the issue, such as rear mounts failing or loose hardware. But most common is the boat is getting soft.

Aren't we all getting soft in our old age.
Thanks

 

[Rick Stephens]

The alignment being off is a warning. Next step is coupler melting, which put you afoot. Have to pull the motor to replace the coupler. So it is a good idea to check alignment annually, and if the alignmet is changing, check the condition of the transom and stringers by drilling test holes and examining the shavings that come out with the drive bit. You can easily fill those hole permanently with 3M 5200. Knowing the transom is rotten will tell you how to proceed. Not knowing or caring the transom or motor mounts are rotten will put you afoot.

 

[Rick Stephens]

The alignment being off is a warning. Next step is coupler melting, which put you afoot. Repair for a melted coupler is a tow and then pull the motor to replace the coupler. So it is a good idea to check alignment annually, and if the alignment is changing, check the condition of the transom and stringers by drilling test holes and examining the shavings that come out with the drive bit. You can easily fill those hole permanently with 3M 5200. Knowing the transom is rotten will tell you how to proceed. Not knowing or caring the transom or motor mounts are rotten will put you afoot.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Excellent advice here guys. The engine alignment is not really that tough. I’d rather do it myself than have a “mechanic” charge me buckets of cash for doing it improperly.