Outboard Painting

[gm280]

Being a prop, make sure you don't get any harsh chemicals into the center hub. It could dissolve the rubber portion if your prop has such a center. Just a heads up.

 

[JimS123]

So to avoid leaving humps i will remove all original paint. Do you use paint stripper (like methylene chloride or newer less toxic formulas) or something different as a paint remover?

I have tried all the non-toxic stuff. Even used the envirofriendly mineral spirits. Threw them all away after 1 use. I use the old version of Zip Strip.

 

[gm280]

I honestly have no idea what your prop is "painted" with. If it is merely paint, most any type paint stripper will surely make quick work of getting it to bare metal. However, If it is powder coated, well that is another problem all in itself. I just finished stripping powder coating off a lot of parts. But sadly I did it with wire wheels, flapper and sanding disks, and then sandblasting. Powder coat is some very tough stuff to remove. But I also just watched a few powder coat removing videos on Utube. Seems if you sand the powder coat first to scuff up the surface, you can use paint stripped to remove the rest. Wish I would have known that yesterday. I haven't tried that myself...yet, but the videos looked promising.

 

[dingbat]

Just feather the remaining paint the best you can and go for it.
If you want to spend the time, use sanding primer and spot putty to get the new prop look.

 

[gm280]

I actually wondered what do they paint over an aluminum prop in the first place. I can see trying to stop rust on a steel prop, and there is no paint on stainless steep props, but why aluminum? As soon as you spin it, the paint starts to come off... IDK

 

[JimS123]

I have factory painted props that are many years old and still have all the paint left. I have props that I have painted 10 years ago and have not lost paint yet (maybe only in the water 30 or 40 times, though). I have other props that I wasn't too careful with, and have paint loss on the tips because I went thru a sand bar.

 

[roscoe]

Marpro Zinc chromate rattle cans on amazon are $17 prime.
Any good ? who knows
Moeller also still sells it online.
Shipping restrictions apply.
Gallon cans of Rustoleum 7400 at Menards for $62.
***

• This item is not for sale to these states: AZ, CA, CT, DC, DE, IL, IN, MA, MD, ME, NH, NJ, NY, OH, OR, PA, VA

https://www.menards.com/main/storeLocator.html

So if the state line isn't too far away......

 

[dingbat]

I actually wondered what do they paint over an aluminum prop in the first place. I can see trying to stop rust on a steel prop, and there is no paint on stainless steep props, but why aluminum?

Pure aluminum is a very soft, pliable material. Pretty useless except for beverage cans and a couple of other applications

To add strength and machinability, Aluminum is alloyed with various elements, copper, magnesium, manganese, silicon, tin and zinc being the most common.

Talk about a dissimilar metals menagerieThe differing elemental compositions is why you see “aluminum” a couple of different times on dissimilar metals “nobility” charts

Paint is the front line protection from the effects of galvanic corrosion, not to mention the ugliness of a prop covered in aluminum oxide (aluminum oxide).

The chromate in the zinc primer is there to protect the aluminum should the surface of the paint be compromised in some manner

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