Outboard in the Lake

[window]

'73 9.5 HP Johnson. It started hesitating. It would run but inconsistent. Taking it off the boat to analyze it, it went in the lake. I watched a YouTube video on cleaning the carb since I was planning to do that anyway (and I did). Took the plugs out and pulled the starter to get the water out. It sat for about 4 hours while I did all the carb stuff. Now it won't start. Doesn't even cough, like there's no spark I haven't pulled the plugs to see if there's spark. Anything that might still be wet that I should look at. I played with nothing but the carburetor.

 

[KJM]

Did you drain the engine oil and any water that might be in there?

 

[tphoyt]

Pull the flywheel spray everything down with Wd40 and blow it dry with air or even a hair dryer if that’s all you have and try again. Get it running asap and let it run for as long as you can to dry out the internal surfaces.
Best of luck

 

[racerone]

If the motor was submerged you need to get it running ASAP.-----Some manuals suggest 6 HRS !!----Manuals also suggest submerging it again until you arrange help to get it running.

 

[jimmbo]

Spray copious amounts of WD-40/Powertune into the carb as starter is being pulled. Both are pretty good at mixing with and flushing out water. If no spark, disconnect any stop button, and try again. If need be, remove the Flywheel and dry out the Ignition System. A 73 would have the Universal Magneto System. As mentioned above, this all has to happen real soon after the engine is removed from the Water. Once the engine is running, keep it running for at least any Hour, preferably under Load, considerably faster than a Fast Idle. The motor needs to be warm enough for any water inside to evaporate out. Getting the Water out of the Lower Crankshaft Bearing is most critical, as water is heavier than Gas-Oil. If the engine can't be started and run, then it needs to be taken apart ASAP. Sticking the Powerhead back under water will slow any Rusting of the Internals.

 

[Chris1956]

Freshwater is not hard on motors, at least compared to salt water. Also, the legacy of 2 cycle oil tends to protect them from fresh water for a while. You do need to get it running PDQ. Check for spark and clean the carb. I expect the engine to have magneto ign, so clean the points and check the wiring. If no spark replace the condensers.

I dumped a Johnny 50HPV4 into warm salt water while running on plane. It took me 60hrs to find it, and a few more to hose it off and oil it down.

I flushed the crankcase and cylinders with a heavy gas/oil mix, say 5::1. The dunking did not seem to affect it any, which was shocking. It ran just as good after it's bath as before. The magneto, starter and distributor were fine, but I did hose everything down to get the salt off.

 

[topgun3690]

Did you drain the engine oil and any water that might be in there?

Good one!

 

[racerone]

About 40 years ago folks brought a motor to me after 3 weeks of submersion.------Every passage way was full of sand.-----Took it apart and no rust / corrosion marks anywhere.-----Got the motor running.---Took my own motor apart 24 hrs after submersion and exposure to air.----Found corrosion on crank bearings.

 

[jimmbo]

That damn Oxygen sure makes a Mess of Crankshafts after they get wet

 

[window]

Where do I find the points and condenser? I don't have a manual. That's why I asked and I appreciate the legitimate responses. I figured it being a 2-stroke, pulling the plugs and getting the water out was key. Saw that on an unsuccessful snowmobile waterskipping attempt. Since it's an outboard, water should just drain away (mostly). Shouldn't be any drivetrain issues. Right? Thanks.

The carb is dry. I cleaned it after the dunking.

 

[jimmbo]

Points and Condensers are under the Flywheel

 

[window]

Thanks.

 

[KJM]

Good one!

Actually I was serious, then I saw the year!

 

[topgun3690]

Actually I was serious, then I saw the year!

Sorry, couldn't resist....carry on

 

[window]

Points and Condensers are under the Flywheel

What special wrench do I need to get the nut off? I have nothing that will get enough bite. I could beat the crap out of whatever that aluminum spacer is but I figure it's there for a reason. And how do I keep the flywheel stopped? Dealing with a bit of a novice here. Oil changes and tire rotations are the extent of my mechanical genius.

 

[window]

I just watched a YouTube video on flywheel pulling. I know a guy who does outboard motor repair. By the time I invest as much money in special tools to get the flywheel off and then do the work, he can have it fixed and it may be cheaper. Thanks for the tips.

 

[racerone]

Get this motor running ASAP !!

 

[window]

It's in the shop as of 7 this morning. He was confident of a revival.

 

[Crosbyman]

some use straps to hold the fw in place while turning the nut.... a small 1/4 nut driver with a socket (5/8 I think) will usually overide the FW movement by simple inertia. then you need at FW puller... to peek under trhe FW ..

all basic maintenance if you want to save 90-100 $/H shop time and buy tools instead. lots of utubes to help and folks here

 

[window]

It's back and running. Parts took awhile. Apparently it needed a new impeller. Not sure I would have found that. Thanks for all the assistance. I'll be back if there's another instance.