OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

allen.st

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Dec 18, 2004
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I have searched for other post on this and I guess I must be the first "LOL"<br /><br />I have a 76 OMC Stringer 800 behind a 351 Ford. I put a new Tilt motor on last year after I got the boat because it did not have one and quickly found out what fun these little jewels can be. My bilge got flooded once and I did all sorts of cleaning and even pulled this little jewel and cleaned the water out of it and slow baked it and cleaned it and it worked for several trips to the lake but it is dead now.<br /><br />When I get my new one does anyone have suggestions on how to water proof and get it to stay together while installing?? Has any one tried glassing one up first??<br /><br />Thanks all
 

Boomyal

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Aug 16, 2003
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12,072
Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Been there, done that. It won't work. The advice I have for you is not for public consumption. I don't want to incur the wrath of the forum.
 

Dunaruna

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May 2, 2003
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

You can tell me boomyal, I'll keep your secret ;)
 

Boomyal

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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Originally posted by Dunaruna:<br /> You can tell me boomyal, I'll keep your secret ;)
email me Aldo. I don't think I could get sued from Downunder. :D
 

KaGee

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Aug 14, 2004
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Don't flood your bilge!<br />Better get an automatic switch so it does not happen again. The solenoids are famous for coroding around the posts. A clean up there anlong with a dap of liquid tape might be in order too.
 

marinemech

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Aug 12, 2004
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

keep boat out of water with plug out and a good cover over it.<br />otherwise you could try rtv sealant
 

allen.st

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Dec 18, 2004
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Yes I have learned my lesson on pulling the plug, it took over 30 qts of oil and 5 filters to get the engine cleaned. I ordered a new motor today so this weekend I will have to remove the moon gear and put it back on when I get to the lake but this is better than sitting at home on friday when it is supposed to be in the upper 70's "S" :cool:
 

Rainmaker

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Mar 21, 2004
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

I did seal the motor with liquid electrical tape and a wrap with good vinyl tape. That seemed to help. Greased it up real good internally before sealing.<br /><br />The problems with these motors is usually with the bi-metal switch that turns the motor off if you hold the switch too long. Contacts are way too small for the current the motor needs, and the contacts get corroded. I ultimately ended up removing the switch and replacing it with a nice piece of 10 gauge wire. Never had another problem.
 

Boomyal

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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Rainmaker, I don't understand that. The tilt motor power is supplied by solenoids at the back of the engine. The switch just supplies low amp juice to the solenoids, both up and down.
 

KaGee

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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

I think he is talking about a thermal protecter inside the motor??
 

Rainmaker

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Mar 21, 2004
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

KaGee's got it. Instead of just running the current to the brushes, these motors have a set of contacts inside the motor (under the back cover) that break connection if you hold the switch on after the outdrive is up/down. Ford uses the same thing in their door window motors for the same reason. <br /><br />The contacts are about the same size as a set of points in an old distributor, and they will corrode.<br /><br />Like I said, I removed the switch after about the third failure. Thought about adding 50A fuses in line for protection but never did. Just had to be careful not to hold the switch down too long. Had no problem with that motor (sealed it real good too).
 

Boomyal

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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Originally posted by Rainmaker:<br /> KaGee's got it. Instead of just running the current to the brushes, these motors have a set of contacts inside the motor (under the back cover) that break connection if you hold the switch on after the outdrive is up/down. Ford uses the same thing in their door window motors for the same reason. <br /><br />The contacts are about the same size as a set of points in an old distributor, and they will corrode.<br /><br />Like I said, I removed the switch after about the third failure. Thought about adding 50A fuses in line for protection but never did. Just had to be careful not to hold the switch down too long. Had no problem with that motor (sealed it real good too).
Hmmm, I'll take a good look at mine while it is still out on the bench. Never had a problem with it but this might be the time do away with it.<br /><br />I still say that you cannot effectively seal the motor. If nothing else condensation will get to it.
 

allen.st

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Dec 18, 2004
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Rainmaker<br /><br /> Did you solder there wire to bypass the switch?<br />My new motor should be here tuesday, then I will tear my old one down and see if it can fix it and keep the new one for a spare.<br /><br />Did get boat out friday but still have a overheating problem, guess it time to pull the exhaust as I have checked everything else which is working properly (pumps, water flow).<br /><br />Hmmm BOAT Break Out Another Thousand "LOL"
 

Rainmaker

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Mar 21, 2004
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Scuba,<br />Yup, soldered the jumper in.<br /><br />Boomyal,<br />I think I succeeded in sealing up the motor. Since I never had to open it back up its hard to know for sure.<br /><br />I smeared the liquid electrical tape around the seams of the front and rear plates. Then covered the whole thing in 2" wide vinyl tape while the liquid electrical tape was still wet.
 

allen.st

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Dec 18, 2004
Messages
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Rainmaker<br /> when you put the liquid elect tape on and then the vinyl tape was the motor still bolted together and if so did it help hold it together after you took the nuts off, while you stood on your head and with one hand hold it in place and also start the bolt with the same hand??? :D <br /><br />Dont you just love this design??<br /><br />Just waiting on tomorrow<br /><br />Thanks
 

joemamma_222

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Jun 23, 2003
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Hey I got a quick question for ya ! This Motor is "INSIDE" the boat ? What's it bolted to ?and is there like a flexible shaft running to the clutch ? I'm about to take mine apart and I'm thinking it's brushes that are corroded....It's slow moving also and needs help on the way up. Falls down real quick though !
 

allen.st

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Dec 18, 2004
Messages
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

joemomma_22<br /><br />this motor is inside and bolted to the intermediate from the inside opposite the starter. it has a notch on the end of the shaft that goes into the dog clutch thing. (2 brass pcs held together with a spring). Then a shaft goes to the top of the clutch pack and drives a wrom gear.<br /><br />Hope this helps
 

Phantom17

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Feb 7, 2005
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Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

I have the same motor....have a good time. First lesson, buy a new motor, I bought a used one, piece of junk. Now I'll have to get another one. I hear solder the wires and get rid of the connector. Let us know how you do, mine was a pain in the a@#. <br /><br />If you want to take the boat out, I take the "moon" gear off, lift the drive and secure it with a motorcycle strap. Re-install the moon gear to trailer the boat. When get on the ramp back down to the edge, remove the moon gear again, insure it is installed so that the drive is ALL THE WAY DOWN, and re-install those 9/16th bolts, off you go. Not too painful, and at least you can still enjoy the boat!
 

allen.st

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Dec 18, 2004
Messages
63
Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

jh19 that is what I have been doing, I had it working and now it sounds like I broke the little shaft so I have been doing like you said remove the moon gear and trailer it :) <br /><br />I have plenty of room to work on it but I am trying to get my upper unit back on as it was sucking water :(
 

Phantom17

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Feb 7, 2005
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343
Re: OMC Stringer 800 Tilt Motor

Those shafts (worm gear) are about $10-$12 each, no big deal, but everything else is expensive. Replace the spring in between the 2 couplings too. The manual says if it snaps, the motor wont get the rpms it needs to lift the drive. Don't lose the little key that goes in the end of the coupling. I made one because the shop doesn't sell them seperately. You have to buy the couplings in pairs with the keys....$47. <br /><br />Mine is a pain, its directly behind the left rear motor mount. If I could find my swivel extension I'd have an easier time on the top bolt, the bottom is visable and easy, just have to be a contorsionist under the engine. <br /><br />Good luck
 
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